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The Absolute Rule is that you Never run a different oil viscosity than the Manufacturer's Spec. If they update their spec, that's obviously OK. The only exception would be an engine that is a heavy oil user due to valve seals, ring/cylinder wear, etc.

Everyone's moving to lower viscosity oils for "racing". Why give up the free torque, HP, & MPG?

As an ex oil developer, I appreciate the consumer choice XOM gives us. And their marketing literature is written the best!

This is a bearing clearance or materials design defect, not an oil defect.

You can safely use the recommended factory spec viscosity, usually a 0W20 in today's average engine. Think about it. It doesn't matter what the outside temperature is. Why? Because, after warmup, the engine is bathed in 165 to 170 degrees F of engine compartment heat. This is called the design...

Much better decision is to run Mobil 1 ESP X2 with 1 quart of NEW Valvoline R&P(b.o. typical crankcase volume of 4 to g quarts). The M1's properties will hardly be affected, & you will get slow bottom end cleaning from the VR&P. Any HPL grade is vast overkill, since the owner said they'll go to...

As you said, this car is not a keeper. They're just too delicate & breakable. An alfa is just as unreliable as a 1964-2024 fiat. So you would do the minimum maintenance, to get to the end of lease date. BTW, leasing still costs way more per mile than buying.

Not needed, just run proper oil viscosity for your measured bearing clearances

Only 0w20 will work correctly in this engine. Anything else will cause premature engine damage, & you will not be paid on warranty claims.

Since there's nothing special about the engine or service, any oil on the shelf at walmart is more than sufficient. Supertech is fine

Guess you've never managed an oil lab or production plant. The off label toyota stuff gets the inferior basestocks, and the inferior addpacks, so your base be mine

Production vehicle: hold oil temperatures between 230 and 260 degrees F, dino, dino syn, or full syn oil. 2024 racing car with race-only synthetics operating at 300-350 degrees F, or even higher.

Any toyota labeled oil would be lagging behind the additive package of any major oil company's premium oils. Not worth using toyota or honda oils.

No. Simply drive her car on the highway for 20 minutes, once per week. This will get the engine up to optimum temp, boiling off the water and light ends from the gasoline built up in the oil from the short trips.

Because it cleans less than M1, which backs up XOM's engine cleaning claim.

Valvo. has strange marketing. No extended OCI is quoted, so I guess just use your OLI/MMS, or 10k miles? No seal conditioners, but "it's good for any age engine"? The warranty is probably strangely written, too. Pics show only partial piston cleaning, but no other engine parts claimed.

M1 EP HM, try not to worry

Owners manuals are written by engineers. I wrote all the tech lit. for ARCO & Sunoco. Biblical allusions have nothing to do with oil specs. Not talking about oil cooling, Newton's law doesn't apply. Did you take engineering thermo? Repeat, it's hot out, the engine is hotter, the oil is almost...

Not talking about oil cooling, Newton's law doesn't apply. Did you take engineering thermo? Repeat, it's hot out, the engine is hotter, the oil is almost at engine temp. Since engine oil is not alive, it doesnt matter that it's hot out. You can safely use the factory spec viscosity. Most cars...

Not talking about oil cooling, Newton's law doesn't apply. Did you take engineering thermo? Repeat, it's hot out, the engine is hotter, the oil is almost at engine temp. Since engine oil is not alive, it doesnt matter that it's hot out. You can safely use the factory spec viscosity. Most cars...