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Not sure it’s this way with current vehicles but….our 2010 BMW 3 series was supposed to have the “ECM reprogrammed” (?) to allow for charging a new battery. I didn’t do that when replacing the battery because any form of voltage regulation is supposed to sense the voltage and amperage needed...

Balance issue. That’s the section that slaps the road.

Differential worn where the side axle gear rides. That causes the slop-noise and worn gears in diff case. Probably get a complete salvage yard rear end for what it cost to overhaul yours.

With much different clearances and internals than your street engine. There’s also more drivetrain components and accessories to be considered during break-in with a new-factory assembled vehicle. No comparison for race-dyno process.

I would be inclined to use a 5w40 or 10w40. Edit: For what it’s worth….those engines were assembled tighter than what you now have. That’s the reason for the original bearing wear. You are right on the money with clearances on your new bearings.

Several short interval oil changes should do. Not fond of “flush” chemicals in engine. Did you change the oil pump?

Our Fleet garage had 4 lube-oil Techs. One would tighten filters with an oil filter wrench. When the vehicle came back for another PM service, the other 3 Techs would make him come to their service bay and remove those overtightened filters. That corrected his thoughts on how to properly tighten...

Just remember to shake it up so those “additives” (black grit) in the bottom gets poured into your engine.

My 5.3 Sierra stays at 200 after reaching operating temperature. 205-210 towing in the summer. Yours sounds normal.

It’s a roller cam engine. Use whatever you wish. I’d go 5w30 conventional for a few short oil changes before switching to synthetics. That way you can see at first if it’s going to use oil quickly and not have an investment in synthetic oil.

Big channel lock pliers. Even if it smashes it flat you’ve got long handles for leverage.

Torque to factory spec but do it yourself. If the tire store got it wrong this time they could again. Even using torque wrench or torque stick can be incorrect if torqued out of proper sequence.

Curious…Does the filter ever have anything visible in it? My opinion….if there’s metal flakes, brass bushing wear, and/or clutch material seen, the damage is done and is going to continue regardless of a fresh filter. Also, how do you negotiate the exhaust crossing over directly under the...

Maybe I bought a cheap Honda but for what I paid for it, it shouldn’t be cheap. Plastic tires like a toy. The thumb drive to engage the self propelled feature is annoying. I’m either pushing it or chasing it. The thin plastic deck shroud busted after I unfortunately mowed over a few pieces of...

You’re good then.

First - does it hold in park (pawl damage?) Second- does the engine and transmission mounts seem firm ((broken mounts if snatched?) Third- does it have vibrations that weren’t there before (front tires flat spotted?)

Motorcraft 15w40 Synthetic.

Severe service intervals for TC and trans are 45k miles respectively. In a fleet setting and the constant use of 4 wheel drive, these intervals are more than likely not going to cut it. More like 30k miles in snow/ice and off-road conditions.

Or spark knocking….

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