Recent content by Peter_Pan

Here is the latest results. There was roughly 60 hrs. on this sample subjected to both summer and winter temps. There was no other oil changes between this sample and the one before it above at 36 hrs. The reason the engine hrs. is higher is cause the counter was on when I forgot the key in ACC...

Previous report's image file was delete. Here it is again for comparison:

An updated report. Seems like the Formula Shell Synthetic stood up very well to both Winter weather when the tractor is used as a snowplow as well as the Summer highs when used as a mower. Copper is really high though... Opinions?

Originally Posted By: MrMeeks Now I'm getting it.Nothing to be concerned about. Try .5oz/5gal of two stroke oil for top piston ring lubrication. get a magnetic oil drain plug.I have owned similar engines.If the valve clearances get too tight these engines get hard to start.I can describe my...

Originally Posted By: Steve S A uoa on a factory fill does that mean are you going to trend? It would be interesting. What oil are you going to run? Yup, am gonna trend it as I rarely pass 50 Hrs / Year mark so once a year basically. I've put in Formula Shell Synthetic 5W-30.

2009 B&S Platinum 24 HP V-Twin with XRD (Report erroneously says 20 HP). It's specially sold on Mastercraft mowers as the Platinum series. It sits below the Professional Series but above the Intek XRD line. It's for the most part a Professional Series engine with the same air cleaner design etc...

Originally Posted By: Gary Allan Tighten all of your clamps. Most would swap out the factory clamps with a hose refit. There's nothing to indicate an internal coolant leak. Your wear numbers are noise. I imagine that your turbo is doing a beat down on the visc. The engine doesn't seem to...

If you're worried about shearing, consider Mobil 1 0W-40 or SynPower 5W-40. These oils are really tough and should have you covered on both ends. At -40 I'd be more worried about freezing in the gas line or the radiator though.

Originally Posted By: Bluestream Back in the 90's I was using 10W30 dino in -40F weather without any block heaters and without any proplems in my Dodge van. Truck was still running goood at 250K when I sold it. I think your Mobil 1 5W30 is fine... Wow, a modern 10W-30 (like PYB) would have a...

Originally Posted By: Petrou i think i may try a 0-30 next, not quit sure yet Why not sure yet? You seem like a perfect candidate for 0W-30! It will save your engine from cold start wear in the long term. -20 ambient without windchill pushes 5W-30 very close to its limits.

Originally Posted By: defektes I am curious are the tahoes OLMs set for synthetic? I'm pretty sure the OLM in GM cars is set to whatever GM oil spec applies to the certain engine/car. So depending on that it could be synthetic or dino but most certainly in the case of a Tahoe it's dino. As...

Originally Posted By: sangyup81 You're supposed to use a single weight oil for break in. However, break ins are usually not necessary these days. Single weight oil?! Is there even a new car sold/manufactured these days with single weight in the sump?

2001 Toyota RAV4 2.0 Stated capacity with filter change is 4.2 L, maximum capacity is 4.4 L. Checked with dipstick for 4.4 L to Maximum line while emptying the 4.4 L jug. 5W-30 Motomaster Formula 1 Full Synthetic, a Formula Shell Synthetic rebadge. BOSCH premium filter. Took out 5W-30 Syntec...

My Mercedes Flexible Service System never calculates my OCI over 10'000 miles ~ 18000 KM. This is with an oil life sensor along with computer algorithm and Mobil 1 0W-40. I do 80% freeway and 20% city but winters in Ontario can be tough on oil.

Originally Posted By: JoeFromPA Show me one person who has ever had their engine replaced under warranty by AMSOIL, Valvoline, Slick 50, etc. etc.... any of the companies that put forth these sorts of warranties. Agreed! I'm willing to bet none of them has ever had to pay a dime for any...