i have a nissan titan 06. My dealer doesnt sell brake fluid by the bottles but rather by cases which i hardly need. So instead of paying hundreds of dollars at the dealer, what's a good subsitute? My manufacture recommends DOT3 or Nissan Genuine Heavy Duty brake fluid or equivalent.
What's a good substitute for an OEM brake fluid?
- Thread starter Highroller
- Start date
- Status
I use ATE Blue.
Lots of posters use Valvoline Synpower Fluid (both DOT3 and DOT4) with good results. Readily available and affordable.
ATE is good stuff but you'll need to mail order it.
For some good info check out these Technical papers including one on brake fluid ...
http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/tech_white_papers.shtml
ATE is good stuff but you'll need to mail order it.
For some good info check out these Technical papers including one on brake fluid ...
http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/tech_white_papers.shtml
DOT4 is not always an improvement over DOT3. Possibly "Better" performance with a trade-off of less longevity. There is a reason almost all OEM systems are filled with DOT3.
Read the paper I linked to above.
I always use DOT4 even when DOT3 is required.
I also don't care for some of stoptech's info.
Since your vehicle is only a year old, I'm assuming that you are planning a yearly brake bleed. ANY DOT3 or DOT4 can be used. Motorcraft DOT3 is an easy choice if available. For DOT4, I use Castrol GTLMA or Valvoline Synpower brake fluid. I don't see the need for any of those online-only exotic fluids for a normal daily driven vehicle that is bled on a regular basis(every year).
I don't worry about brake fluid longevity because I don't wait 5 years to bleed my brakes.
I also don't care for some of stoptech's info.
Since your vehicle is only a year old, I'm assuming that you are planning a yearly brake bleed. ANY DOT3 or DOT4 can be used. Motorcraft DOT3 is an easy choice if available. For DOT4, I use Castrol GTLMA or Valvoline Synpower brake fluid. I don't see the need for any of those online-only exotic fluids for a normal daily driven vehicle that is bled on a regular basis(every year).
I don't worry about brake fluid longevity because I don't wait 5 years to bleed my brakes.
Cool read on that link, very informative for a newbie like myself on brake fluids. Thanks for the suggestions. Yes, i plan to change out my brake fluids approximately every year or so. I will look to buy some DOT4 fluids, Valvoline synpower seems like the way to go.
Here's another question... are all brake fluid compatible with each other? For instance, if i have some DOT3 from bottle A left and want to use it with DOT4 bottle B, will i have any problems with the chemistry?
no compatibility problems with DOT3 & DOT4.
My car recommended DOT3 brake fluid, and I just used Prestone DOT3 and it worked fine. Also used it for my ABS modulator. It's not a Nissan, but it any DOT3 or DOT4 should work, you don't necessarily have to get OEM. If you change it yearly, you'd probably be fine just getting whatever's on sale
Valvoline Synpower is great stuff, but if you're changing it so often, I don't see any benefits.
You won't have any problems with chemistry, but the "have some left" statement kind of scares me. DO NOT use brake fluid that has been sitting around after the bottle has been opened. You might as well keep what you have in that case, it will have adsorbed as much water.
I don't see how a sealed can will absorb water like sitting in a brake system. Sure there's some air with x humidity level in the empty portion of a used bottle, but I don't see how it will be that bad.
This is one reason I use ATE fluid. It comes in steel cans so moisture migration is not a problem. Living in a dessert with
The best reason to not use a can an opened can of brake fluid is that the fluid is cheap. How much are you saving, $2? You want the full moisture drawing power of the fluid to work protecting your brakes. Otherwise you are using a wet towel to clean a spill as opposed to a dry one. There is probably a warning in your cars manual to not use an previously opened can. There is also a warning on the can itself. Why would a person ignore these for $.50 worth of fluid ? It takes very little moisture to significantly effect fluid performance.
Undummy - What info of stoptech's do you not like or think is questionable ?
Undummy - What info of stoptech's do you not like or think is questionable ?
MonumentOiler, i wont be using any leftovers. I know the importance of using sealed newly opened brake fluids. I was just contemplating the what if's scenarios.
Highroller - not all brake fluids are compatible. DOT3 and DOT4 are. But neither is compatible with DOT5.
Yes i understand that from reading the stoptech link above.
Question - Let's say i went ahead and bleed my brakes for the first time. And then everytime after that (let's say starting every 10k from then on).. i would only want to dump out the old brake fluid from the brake reservoir and just refill everytime with fresh new fluid. Will that be good enough for the duration of my truck's life? Reason is because it's a pain for me to bleed my brakes... usually i just dump out my powersteering fluid reservoir and just refill, so that's what i want to do from now on. Comments?
Question - Let's say i went ahead and bleed my brakes for the first time. And then everytime after that (let's say starting every 10k from then on).. i would only want to dump out the old brake fluid from the brake reservoir and just refill everytime with fresh new fluid. Will that be good enough for the duration of my truck's life? Reason is because it's a pain for me to bleed my brakes... usually i just dump out my powersteering fluid reservoir and just refill, so that's what i want to do from now on. Comments?
It probably would be good enough b/c let's face it, most folks never check the brake fluid must less think about changing it.
In most systems, there is very little ciruculation/mixing of brake fluid. This is important because brake fluid slowly absorbs copper from the brake lines. As the copper accumulates and in the presence of water and heat, the fluid then begins to cause corrosion/rust. The oxidation material (including rust) is not flushed back to the master cylinder during normal operation. This results in pitting of the cylinder walls and errosion of the seals. A significant reason for flushing/bleeding the brakes is to remove the fluid before copper accumaltes to a harmful level (there are test kits availble just to keep tabs on the copper).
Depending on the climate and driving style, I suggest that bleeding the lines is more important than replacing the reservoir fluid.
I will grant that fluid replacement at the master cylinder is better than doing nothing (some line fluid does get back to the master cylinder), but if your goal is to really make a difference, then bleed the lines at least every other year. I have found a yearly gravity bleed to be fairly painless.
Depending on the climate and driving style, I suggest that bleeding the lines is more important than replacing the reservoir fluid.
I will grant that fluid replacement at the master cylinder is better than doing nothing (some line fluid does get back to the master cylinder), but if your goal is to really make a difference, then bleed the lines at least every other year. I have found a yearly gravity bleed to be fairly painless.
- Status
