Oil Temp for Street and Track. How Low is Too Low?

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Originally Posted By: atikovi
Doesn't the cooler have a thermostat? And the idea that oil that doesn't get above 150 won't boil off water is nonsense. The oil temperature is just an average from where the sensor is taking a reading. Wherever the oil comes into contact with bearings, pistons, cylinder walls, etc. whose parts are well over 212, will allow any water to vaporize.

Originally Posted By: Coprolite
I believe that you need a thermostat if you don't have one installed. This would allow the engine to use the cooler to keep the oil from getting too hot (e.g. on the track) but allow optimal operative minimum temperature to be attained in normal driving.

Superman and Batman don't wander around ready to fight, they rise to the demand when called upon.

Don't ask me where that illustration came from... I don't know.

That's a great analogy!

Originally Posted By: mightymousetech
In your original post, you said
Quote:
200F Mishimoto thermostatic sandwich plate

. Is there a thermostat in there?


The sandwich plate between the block and oil filter currently has a thermostat in it. It came with a 180F thermostat and I replaced it with a 200F thermostat. However, thermostats in oil cooling systems like this always allow some flow regardless of oil temperature. From what I understand, this is required to prevent air lock.

So, to restate the current situation, the oil cooler is controlled by a 200F thermostat that has some fluid leak by at all temperatures for safety. On top of that, I tape over the entire exposed area of the oil cooler on public roads to try and keep air from passing through. Despite this, oil temperatures off of the track rarely exceed 155F and are typically in the 140-150F range.

I've been searching around some more and, according to the section on oil pressure in the factory service manual, Honda indicates that an oil temperature of 176F is operating temperature. 176F(80C) is also the same temperature as the thermostat in the water cooling system. I'm guessing that the drop in oil temperature that I'm currently seeing is purely due to the amount of energy lost from the leak-by oil.
 
What thermostat is in your coolant system? Is it even opening in regular usage? Is it working properly?

Just the shear increase in oil volume would provide a lot more thermal mass to warm up with each drive. If you also have a full time open cooling system, it would be even more tough to warm up...
 
Originally Posted By: Coprolite
What thermostat is in your coolant system? Is it even opening in regular usage? Is it working properly?

Just the shear increase in oil volume would provide a lot more thermal mass to warm up with each drive. If you also have a full time open cooling system, it would be even more tough to warm up...

The car has the OEM coolant thermostat. I've watched coolant temperatures with a scanner before and everything is working as it should. No problems in that area.
 
Originally Posted By: slybunda
is it better to run 0w16 at 60c temps or 0w30 at 100c temps?

I'm not sure. I've been using 10W-30 throughout the track season instead of the 0W-20 Honda calls for in North America. Otherwise, I use 0W-20 October through February. These engines use 5W-30 in Europe and other manufacturers (particularly Subaru and Toyota) state that thicker oils may be desirable under extreme loading conditions or high speed driving. The Mazda MX-5 is in a similar situation. Like the CR-Z, it has a low power engine and the owner's manual in North America only lists 0W-20 for oil choice. And yet, the spec oil for Global MX-5 Cup cars is European formula Castrol Edge 0W-30. The Global MX-5 Cup cars also run oil coolers on top of the thicker oil.

So yeah... I'm not really sure. It sucks that there isn't more information on this stuff. I contacted Honda in the past and they said to "consult with racing experts".
lol.gif
 
Originally Posted By: slybunda
is it better to run 0w16 at 60c temps or 0w30 at 100c temps?


I would take the 30 weight. I'm in my own little camp of 30 weight works best for protecting the engine unless you are in a HD application and need thicker.

I can see where 20 weight could be beneficial in extreme cold conditions, but for most engines in most climates a 5w or 10w-30 does a fine job.
 
Originally Posted By: Rand
I would use an oil cooler with a thermostat.

Otherwise it will be terrible esp. in the winter.

I would want the oil to run at least 180f in normal driving.

And stay below 250f


Bingo,

I have a car that has a factory oil radiator (dry sump, deaireator, with 12" fan,...)
I want the oil to get up to 212º+ at least once per drive.
City driving in Texas summers will see oil in the 220º range when the fan comes on.
My car cruises down interstates at 187º on the gauge.
My car also 'cruises' at 120 MPH at 187º on the oil gauge. There does not seem be any speed on straight line (i.e., interstate) driving where the car will come off of its thermostatic lower limits.
At the race tracks in 103º Texas summer heat, the oil will get to 275º after 10 minutes, but stabilizes at these temperatures for as long at 72 minutes (a whole tank of gasoline).
I can't get the oil over 250º even thrashing the car with complete abandon on back country roads.
 
212F is the optimal temperature because that's when water boils. At this temperature heat is absorbed by the coolant as the coolant tries to boil and this phase change (liquid to gas) pressurizes the coolant system, while the temperature remains at 212F (it rises slightly above 212F because fof the pressure increase).

That's the temperature at which engine parts are designed to operate, including lubrication fluids.

Any temperature under 212F, the engine does not operate in an optimal manner.

The farthest below 212F, the least optimal.

How low is too low? Depends on your engine design. Some engines are designed better than others and are less stressed under cold temp.
 
Originally Posted By: Linctex
Originally Posted By: robertcope
I run about 275F on a hot day. Red Line and Mobil have both told me that's just fine.


The oil can handle that...
but most rubber seals lifespan goes down faster over 250*F


You're probably right. I spent a day driving new McLarens around a track recently. Guess where the oil stayed? About 275F.
 
Originally Posted By: HX520W
I should also mention that I have an Earl's 10 row narrow oil cooler sitting around. I'm not sure if that's enough...

As it turns out, it's actually a narrow 13 row. I'm still not very confident that would be enough.

I emailed Holley about my situation, but they said that there isn't a set guideline on choosing an oil cooler. So, I've been looking at the sizing guide on Setrab's website instead. Right now, I'm thinking that I'll either go with something based off of Setrab's guide or see if ducting the narrow 13 row that I have is enough. I have about a month until the next track day. I'll update the thread with whatever temperatures I get with the next setup.

Thanks for all the responses. Now I know what temperatures I should aim for off track
smile.gif
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I'm back with an update after spending two days at Barber Motorsports Park.

I installed and ducted a narrow 13 row cooler after looking through Setrab's sizing chart and deciding that it might provide just enough cooling. Strangely enough, the temperature readings aren't much different compared to the wide 19 row. The oil is still operating at around 150F with the cooler blocked off on the interstate and gets up to 205-210F on the track (it was typically 190-200 with the bigger cooler at Road Atlanta). Even during a 35 min session, the oil temperature held at 208-210F. I even tried completely blocking off the oil cooler before a 20 min track session and the oil temperature was only about three degrees higher than normal
confused2.gif
.

Could the car be designed to operate at such low temperatures? I'm tempted to get a different sandwich plate so I can try running it without a cooler. I've never heard of a car running this cool before...
 
From someone that just had their VVT solenoid replaced because it was gunked up due to a stuck open thermostat that didn't allow oil temps to get high enough to burn off the bad stuff.......
 
Originally Posted By: HX520W
I'm back with an update after spending two days at Barber Motorsports Park.

I installed and ducted a narrow 13 row cooler after looking through Setrab's sizing chart and deciding that it might provide just enough cooling. Strangely enough, the temperature readings aren't much different compared to the wide 19 row. The oil is still operating at around 150F with the cooler blocked off on the interstate and gets up to 205-210F on the track (it was typically 190-200 with the bigger cooler at Road Atlanta). Even during a 35 min session, the oil temperature held at 208-210F. I even tried completely blocking off the oil cooler before a 20 min track session and the oil temperature was only about three degrees higher than normal
confused2.gif
.

Could the car be designed to operate at such low temperatures? I'm tempted to get a different sandwich plate so I can try running it without a cooler. I've never heard of a car running this cool before...


Try a higher temp thermostat?
 
Originally Posted By: Brigadier
Try a higher temp thermostat?
I already have the highest temperature thermostat available for the sandwich plate.
 
Originally Posted By: Brigadier
From someone that just had their VVT solenoid replaced because it was gunked up due to a stuck open thermostat that didn't allow oil temps to get high enough to burn off the bad stuff.......


Hmm ...... it's the presence of ambulance at site that leads (or corelates) to the occurence of traffic accidents involving bodily injuries ??
 
Originally Posted By: HX520W
Could the car be designed to operate at such low temperatures? I'm ............


No.
All (rotating) mechanical equipments with lubricating 'systems' are ! Period.
All other phenomena are artifacts.
 
Anyone who thinks you need high oil temps to drive off the water has never seen the rain dry off concrete at ambient temps.....

That being said 100C is what temp the viscosity rating is speced at.
 
Originally Posted By: SHOZ
Anyone who thinks you need high oil temps to drive off the water has never seen the rain dry off concrete at ambient temps.....


Or a waste oil covered driveway eh???

Honestly do you really believe that applies to closed crankcase (it's dark in there, no sun, remember) as opposed to rain drying off a concrete (or waste oil, because it's black and was once in the ground) path ??
 
Originally Posted By: Shannow
Originally Posted By: SHOZ
Anyone who thinks you need high oil temps to drive off the water has never seen the rain dry off concrete at ambient temps.....


Or a waste oil covered driveway eh???

Honestly do you really believe that applies to closed crankcase (it's dark in there, no sun, remember) as opposed to rain drying off a concrete (or waste oil, because it's black and was once in the ground) path ??
Water vapor is almost impossible to stop. Just think of all those plastic bottles of brake fluid that are 5 years old and contaminated.

BTW they are still applying hot oil to the bare gravel around here before they lay the asphalt.
 
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