Priming oil pump

[supton]

Well, I chickened out on doing the timing belt, but I still read up on it. Something I'm not sure about is priming the oil pump. A few threads indicated to pack the pump with petroleum jelly (or similar) before putting together. How necessary is that? I found this link which didn't indicate to do that. link

 

[andyd]

Another way is to spin the pump with a drill attachment. Which ever way you use, the object is gain PSI and flow as fast as possible. I used Vaseline to pack a pump for priming it.

 

[supton]

I forget if I could get in there to spin the pump--fenderwell in the way.

It's not hard to pack with grease, just trying to understand if it's required or not. Seems like an oil pump can drain down and have a dry start under normal conditions.

 

[eljefino]

Do you need to reseal the oil pump? I would let sleeping dogs lie. And let it warm up a little.

The 5sfe timing belt is pretty easy.

If you take the oil pump apart just put it back together "dirty" eg with residual oil. Don't go simple-greening everything.

 

[supton]

Not sure. I have oil there (and everywhere it seems). I didn't see oil behind the top timing belt cover though. Belt looked ok but I'm pretty sure it's original with 145k on it. Ergo, time to do it all.

 

[CT8]

Why would you need to pack the oil pump when changing a timing belt?

 

[Linctex]

Do NOT "pack" with petroleum jelly, only a thin amount is needed if you reassemble it.

I actually prefer STP or similar - it seals gaps in oil pumps very well.

 

[supton]

Originally Posted By: CT8
Why would you need to pack the oil pump when changing a timing belt?


Somewhat common problem with the 5SFE (or at least it's noted on the web) is an oil pump leak. To fix that one does a timing belt job, as the oil pump is driven by, and located behind, the timing belt. Ergo, go one step further than the barest min for a timing belt job to do an oil pump.

 

[mehullica]

If you're replacing the timing belt you should replace the oil pump seals. Remove the oil pump impeller pulley & the front half of the oil pump body can be unbolted. There's an O ring for the body that leaks & the oil pump pulley/impeller shaft seal can be replaced at the same time. The front crank seal is sometimes hard to replace if the crank sprocket is rusted on, there's no puller holes in the sprocket.

 

[Chris142]

Stp and lucas are great for this!

 

[901Memphis]

Originally Posted By: Chris142
Stp and lucas are great for this!


Maxlife and motor oil saver are better

 

[JetStar]

Since your pump is crank driven, the old drill trick wont work. If I have the oil pump apart or replaced, and I can't drill prime, I'll pull the plugs and disable the ignition. Crank until you get oil pressure, install plugs and re-connect ignition. That's just how I do it, if you decide to not do that it's probably no worse than the dry start at an oil change. I'm assuming your vehicle is not notorious for being difficult to prime.