Getting ready to do rear brakes on my 2010 Acura MDX. FSM says to apply M-77 Moly paste on pad side of shim and back of pad. Using Akebono ProActs which I have used many times and like very much. Akebono says do NOT apply lube between shim and pad. Lots of opinions on the net but consensus seems to be no lube between pad and shim. What do you folks think? Thanks.
Between Pads & Shims - Lube or No Lube?
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I followed Raybestos instructions a few months ago - just the pins and clips where the pads slide. So thats all I did. No noises in approx 5k miles. This is the second set on this truck, the first was dealer installed. No evidence of use on shims. The way Mine is designed, don't think I would. Could cause uneven pressure, maybe slip when the caliper is depressed.
Hmmmmm!
I too have used Akebono ProActs(love'em) and have lubed the backs of the pad without issues on our Lexus RX. I don't think it's gonna hurt anything however, it may not be needed!
I too have used Akebono ProActs(love'em) and have lubed the backs of the pad without issues on our Lexus RX. I don't think it's gonna hurt anything however, it may not be needed!
Originally Posted By: Char Baby
Hmmmmm!
I too have used Akebono ProActs(love'em) and have lubed the backs of the pad without issues on our Lexus RX. I don't think it's gonna hurt anything however, it may not be needed!
BTW, lubing the backing plates on brake pads is supposed to HELP eliminate the chance of having any brake pad squeal or noises. However, Akebono ProActs are very quiet all on their own. I tend to lube the backing plates of all brake pads(regardless of brand) as to eliminate having to go back in and do what I should have done in the first place!
Hmmmmm!
I too have used Akebono ProActs(love'em) and have lubed the backs of the pad without issues on our Lexus RX. I don't think it's gonna hurt anything however, it may not be needed!
BTW, lubing the backing plates on brake pads is supposed to HELP eliminate the chance of having any brake pad squeal or noises. However, Akebono ProActs are very quiet all on their own. I tend to lube the backing plates of all brake pads(regardless of brand) as to eliminate having to go back in and do what I should have done in the first place!
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I've used that "tacky spray" with success.
Originally Posted By: Dyusik
Never have, and the only noise I ever got was from the friction side of the pad.
Never have, and the only noise I ever got was from the friction side of the pad.
: Never understood the whole lubing the brake pad thing.
As mentioned above, for those who have had noises, "lubing/spraying/gooping" the backing plates reduces the chances of having noises. It doesn't necessarily 100% eliminate the noises. I've used (name brand but, lesser quality pads ~ 2011)that made so much/many noise(s) that it didn't matter what I did to eliminate the noise. I resorted to replace the pads.
Applying product on the backing plates helps to absorb vibrations that "may" cause the noise(s), that's all...process of elimination so that we don't have to go back into the brake job to apply some product to the backing plates.
I believe that today's better quality brakes/friction material, have reduced the chances/need of any extra product. Which is why many folks like yourself, have had good success with just installing new pads w/o any lube on the backing plates. I continue to lube the backing plates as old habits(due to past experience) are hard to stop!
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I always go with that the instructions say. Pads and brake companies can be different. Personally I have never added anything between the two but it doesn't mean that if the instructions didn't state it that I wouldn't do it.
Originally Posted By: artbuc
Getting ready to do rear brakes on my 2010 Acura MDX. FSM says to apply M-77 Moly paste on pad side of shim and back of pad. Using Akebono ProActs which I have used many times and like very much. Akebono says do NOT apply lube between shim and pad. Lots of opinions on the net but consensus seems to be no lube between pad and shim. What do you folks think? Thanks.
Akebono has started to change their position on lubrication; the pads that Akebono are making for Toyota's value line (TCMC) requires grease to be applied in very specific areas (dots, not just spread onto the shims):
https://youtu.be/ZIk6R2QTrVE
http://www.rav4world.com/pdf/T-TT-0132-11.pdf
So, it is always important to follow the instructions from the OEM - there is no room for opinions on this subject.
For your MDX, apply M77 where specified.
Getting ready to do rear brakes on my 2010 Acura MDX. FSM says to apply M-77 Moly paste on pad side of shim and back of pad. Using Akebono ProActs which I have used many times and like very much. Akebono says do NOT apply lube between shim and pad. Lots of opinions on the net but consensus seems to be no lube between pad and shim. What do you folks think? Thanks.
Akebono has started to change their position on lubrication; the pads that Akebono are making for Toyota's value line (TCMC) requires grease to be applied in very specific areas (dots, not just spread onto the shims):
https://youtu.be/ZIk6R2QTrVE
http://www.rav4world.com/pdf/T-TT-0132-11.pdf
So, it is always important to follow the instructions from the OEM - there is no room for opinions on this subject.
For your MDX, apply M77 where specified.
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I always feel luckier doing all the trimmings.
I use Permatex anti-squeek blue rubbery stuff between the Shim and Pad, and if there isn't a Nitrile pad from the factory on the outside of the shim, I use the Blue there too and let it all fully dry before clipping it back together and installing on the Caliper.
Also, in the rust belt I'd leave the Blue a bit tacky before clipping the shim to the pad, so if the tabs rust off the Shim is lightly glued to the back of the pad keeping it together.
I use Permatex anti-squeek blue rubbery stuff between the Shim and Pad, and if there isn't a Nitrile pad from the factory on the outside of the shim, I use the Blue there too and let it all fully dry before clipping it back together and installing on the Caliper.
Also, in the rust belt I'd leave the Blue a bit tacky before clipping the shim to the pad, so if the tabs rust off the Shim is lightly glued to the back of the pad keeping it together.
Originally Posted By: The Critic
Akebono has started to change their position on lubrication; the pads that Akebono are making for Toyota's value line (TCMC) requires grease to be applied in very specific areas (dots, not just spread onto the shims):
https://youtu.be/ZIk6R2QTrVE
http://www.rav4world.com/pdf/T-TT-0132-11.pdf
So, it is always important to follow the instructions from the OEM - there is no room for opinions on this subject.
For your MDX, apply M77 where specified.
Do you mean follow Acura FSM or follow Akebono?
Akebono has started to change their position on lubrication; the pads that Akebono are making for Toyota's value line (TCMC) requires grease to be applied in very specific areas (dots, not just spread onto the shims):
https://youtu.be/ZIk6R2QTrVE
http://www.rav4world.com/pdf/T-TT-0132-11.pdf
So, it is always important to follow the instructions from the OEM - there is no room for opinions on this subject.
For your MDX, apply M77 where specified.
Do you mean follow Acura FSM or follow Akebono?
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Originally Posted By: artbuc
Originally Posted By: The Critic
Akebono has started to change their position on lubrication; the pads that Akebono are making for Toyota's value line (TCMC) requires grease to be applied in very specific areas (dots, not just spread onto the shims):
https://youtu.be/ZIk6R2QTrVE
http://www.rav4world.com/pdf/T-TT-0132-11.pdf
So, it is always important to follow the instructions from the OEM - there is no room for opinions on this subject.
For your MDX, apply M77 where specified.
Do you mean follow Acura FSM or follow Akebono?
The links that I posted were simply examples of why you need to reference the service information for the vehicle that you are working on. You cannot assume that every brake job will be performed the same way.
Since you are using Genuine Honda/Acura pads, you need to follow the instructions In the factory service manual.
Originally Posted By: The Critic
Akebono has started to change their position on lubrication; the pads that Akebono are making for Toyota's value line (TCMC) requires grease to be applied in very specific areas (dots, not just spread onto the shims):
https://youtu.be/ZIk6R2QTrVE
http://www.rav4world.com/pdf/T-TT-0132-11.pdf
So, it is always important to follow the instructions from the OEM - there is no room for opinions on this subject.
For your MDX, apply M77 where specified.
Do you mean follow Acura FSM or follow Akebono?
The links that I posted were simply examples of why you need to reference the service information for the vehicle that you are working on. You cannot assume that every brake job will be performed the same way.
Since you are using Genuine Honda/Acura pads, you need to follow the instructions In the factory service manual.
Originally Posted By: The Critic
Originally Posted By: artbuc
Originally Posted By: The Critic
Akebono has started to change their position on lubrication; the pads that Akebono are making for Toyota's value line (TCMC) requires grease to be applied in very specific areas (dots, not just spread onto the shims):
https://youtu.be/ZIk6R2QTrVE
http://www.rav4world.com/pdf/T-TT-0132-11.pdf
So, it is always important to follow the instructions from the OEM - there is no room for opinions on this subject.
For your MDX, apply M77 where specified.
Do you mean follow Acura FSM or follow Akebono?
The links that I posted were simply examples of why you need to reference the service information for the vehicle that you are working on. You cannot assume that every brake job will be performed the same way.
Since you are using Genuine Honda/Acura pads, you need to follow the instructions In the factory service manual.
Oops, I misred your original post. I would follow Akebonos instructions since you are using their pads. I still recommend using the factory pads instead of Akebono's aftermarket line though - quieter and fewer pad deposits.
Originally Posted By: artbuc
Originally Posted By: The Critic
Akebono has started to change their position on lubrication; the pads that Akebono are making for Toyota's value line (TCMC) requires grease to be applied in very specific areas (dots, not just spread onto the shims):
https://youtu.be/ZIk6R2QTrVE
http://www.rav4world.com/pdf/T-TT-0132-11.pdf
So, it is always important to follow the instructions from the OEM - there is no room for opinions on this subject.
For your MDX, apply M77 where specified.
Do you mean follow Acura FSM or follow Akebono?
The links that I posted were simply examples of why you need to reference the service information for the vehicle that you are working on. You cannot assume that every brake job will be performed the same way.
Since you are using Genuine Honda/Acura pads, you need to follow the instructions In the factory service manual.
Oops, I misred your original post. I would follow Akebonos instructions since you are using their pads. I still recommend using the factory pads instead of Akebono's aftermarket line though - quieter and fewer pad deposits.
Originally Posted By: The Critic
Oops, I misred your original post. I would follow Akebonos instructions since you are using their pads. I still recommend using the factory pads instead of Akebono's aftermarket line though - quieter and fewer pad deposits.
Thanks! I have used Acura factory pads a couple times on my niece's TSX. Like Akebono better.
Oops, I misred your original post. I would follow Akebonos instructions since you are using their pads. I still recommend using the factory pads instead of Akebono's aftermarket line though - quieter and fewer pad deposits.
Thanks! I have used Acura factory pads a couple times on my niece's TSX. Like Akebono better.
Originally Posted By: The_German
....
I use Permatex anti-squeek blue rubbery stuff ...
That stuff is horrid, who ever uses it should spend eternity doing brake jobs after someone slathered that god awful excrement on the pads and dang near everywhere else they touched...
....
I use Permatex anti-squeek blue rubbery stuff ...
That stuff is horrid, who ever uses it should spend eternity doing brake jobs after someone slathered that god awful excrement on the pads and dang near everywhere else they touched...
That stuff was fine, for 30 years ago.
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