Toyota Crown 2003 Athlete V 2.5L Turbo 1JZ-GTE...

[SR5]

Water: I don't know the exact details of you filter, so hard to comment. However a particle filter only removes solids, but not metal ions in solution. Demineralized water has the metal ions removed too, so no scale forms inside the system.

Most people use demineralized water, however some people say if it's good enough to drink then it's good enough for a radiator. Pick a side. But demineralized water is only a few dollars every few years.

 

[SR5]

BTW it's also called distilled water as well as demineralized water.

 

[SR5]

To your oil viscosity question. All oils thin as they heat up. When hot (100 degC) a 40 grade oil should be thicker (higher viscosity) than a 30 grade oil at the same temp. However a cold 30 grade will be much thicker than a hot 40 grade.

Typical Values for some Euro grade synthetic oils:

Valvoline SynPower 0W40 A3/B4
Vis 40C = 73 cSt, Vis 100C = 13.3 cSt

Castrol Edge 5W30 A3/B4
Vis 40C = 72 cSt, Vis 100C = 12.0 cSt

Castrol Edge 10W30 A5/B5
Vis 40C = 66 cSt, Vis 100C = 10.5 cSt

You can see at operating temp (100C) the 40 grade is thicker than both 30 grades (as it should be) and the A3 30 grade is thicker than the A5 30 grade (also as it should be).

At 40deg C both A3 oils (30 & 40) are much the same, while the A5 (the 10W oil) is much thinner.

However at say, -30 deg C, the 10W will be too thick to start easily, the 5W will be OK but at it's limits, and the 0W will be able to go colder. Not a problem for me, because at 30 degrees below zero, you will not be getting me out of bed.

To your auto box question: Sorry, don't know much about ATF fluid. There is a ATF section on the site, you could post your question there. But as others have said, it's probably the same as other Toyota's of the same vintage using the same platform.

 

[RandomNobody]

Thanks for that.

Much appreciated.

In Australia, I don't know of temperature going below -5. In Sydney... Don't think it reaches 0 (not that im aware of. Usually 10+ by the time I sit in the car.

Thanks for the demineralised water thing. I will go to Bunnings and see what it is.

I know in my water Jug, the stainless steel inside it gets calcification (if that is what it is) after X amount of usage. Gets these discoloured spots on the bottom like something is stuck to it. Like water spots that don't rub off.

Would that indicate metals in water?

 

[SR5]

Originally Posted By: Wreckage

I know in my water Jug, the stainless steel inside it gets calcification (if that is what it is) after X amount of usage. Gets these discoloured spots on the bottom like something is stuck to it. Like water spots that don't rub off.

Would that indicate metals in water?


Yep, that's it mate. You don't want that forming inside your radiator.

 

[SR5]

Originally Posted By: Wreckage

In Australia, I don't know of temperature going below -5. In Sydney... Don't think it reaches 0 (not that im aware of. Usually 10+ by the time I sit in the car.


Yes, in Australia most of us could run 15W-40 year round without concern. I have a mate in Sydney with two WRX's with the boost turned up (~ 21 psi). He tracks these cars and runs Mobil Delvac MX 15W-40 all year with good results. The Delvac is a mineral HDEO (heavy duty diesel truck oil that is also suitable for petrol cars).

I'm running a 10W-30 semi-synthetic and it has heaps more cold starting than I will ever need.

 

[Falcon_LS]

Originally Posted By: SR5
Originally Posted By: Falcon_LS

Coolant: Toyota red Long Life coolant (not the pink Super Long Life)


What's the difference between the two ?

The Oz Toyota web page only show super long life.

Valvoline Australia only offer G-05, Dex-Cool and G-48.

Most other places here like Nulon say to run their Red Long-Life (OAT) coolant, which to me is a Dex-Clone.


Red uses benzoate, whereas the pink uses sebacic acid.

 

[javacontour]

Originally Posted By: Wreckage
I found the transmission my car has...

A340E (30-40LE) - 4 speed Auto.

Fluid for that?



That transmission is used here:

A340E (30-40LE)
Applications:
1987-1992 Cressida (30-40LE)
1986-1998 Toyota Supra non-turbo
1987-1998 Toyota Supra turbo 2.5L (1JZ-GTE)
1992-1998 Toyota Supra turbo 3.0L (2JZ-GTE)
1990-2000 Toyota Chaser/Mark II/Cresta 2.5 (1JZ-GE)
1995-2013 Toyota Tacoma 2.7L I4 (4WD), 3.0L V6, 3.4L V6
1993-1995 T100 3.0L V6
1993-1998 Previa 2.4L w/supercharger
1991-1997 Aristo 3.0L I6 Turbo
1992-2000 Lexus SC 300 3.0L I6
1992-1997 Lexus SC 400 4.0L V8
1990-1995 Crown Majesta 3.0L I6
1999-2003 Crown Athlete V (1JZ-GTE)
1994-2000 Toyota Soarer 3.0L I6 (2JZ-GE)
1995-1997 Lexus LS 400 4.0L V8
1989-2002 4Runner (4x2) (30-40LE)
2001-2004 Sequoia (4x2)
2000-2004 Tundra (4x2)
2005-2007 TOYOTA COMMUTER 2.5L DIESEL
1985-1995 Toyota Pick-Up 3.0L
1987-2001 Jeep Cherokee 4.0L
1987-1992 Jeep Comanche 4.0L
1993-1993.5 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0L
1991-2000 Toyota Soarer (1JZ-GTE)
1990-1994 Volvo 960 3.0L
2004-2009 Isuzu Dmax (4x2)3.5L V6
2004 Isuzu Rodeo 3.2L V6
2008 Isuzu d tec 3.0l 4x4

So what does a 2003 Tundra or or Sequoia specify?

Toyota T-IV

So that or anything that matches that specification is likely good.

 

[RandomNobody]

Thanks for everything so far...

As I have been reading...

Perhaps you guys can help clarrify some stuff for me?

Some people say Silicates in coolants (usually in green ones) will block things up, cause calcification problems etc...

Others say using the HOAT stuff is bad because you end up with brown water (corrosion and what not) while the traditional green stuff people knock for silicates is actually good as it protects engines etc better... as long as you flush it out and replace every 2 years to not allow for that buildup stuff to happen.

Then manufacturer tech support from different brands say neither really matters, just dont mix them and that color of coolant doesn't say anything either as it is just a dye color. So putting red or green in, does not matter after flush.

Then others say that European manufacturers dont use phosphates because there water is hard (whatever that means) and can react with phosphates... japaneese dont like borrates due to there water...

So if silicates are bad, HOAT is bad etc... ??????

 

[B320i]

What is "good" and what is "bad" really depends on what the OEM intended to go in there. There is a reason some choose to have some combination of silicate, borate, nitrites, amine and phosphates.

Silicates, whilst considered "detrimental" to the life of water-pumps, are very good at cleaning surfaces. But, once they age, will precipitate as they drop out of the mixture/solution.

Phosphates are a traditional means of softening water, now this might be all well and good with rain-water or mild city water, but with a "peanut" using well water in his engine. No. It too will precipitate and turn to goo.

Use a Toyota Red, or the aftermarket equivalent. Make sure you thoroughly flush water is in there, as a HOAT coolant it is (sort-of) a type of "DexCool," so could do charming things if left to a poorly-flushed system.