Modding your car
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Originally Posted By: Silverado12
A restrictive exhaust is actually better for around town driving and for low-end torque. You'll need this to maximize your gas mileage.
Nope. This is one of the biggest misconceptions in the car world.
Back pressure is always bad and will ALWAYS hurt power and torque. A too-large exhaust (like a 4" exhaust on a 100hp 4 cylinder) will hurt low end torque, but it's due to lack of exhaust velocity, not lack of back pressure. A too-small exhaust with more back pressure will hurt low end torque and top end power compared to a properly sized and designed exhaust.
The goal is to keep velocity up but have as little back pressure as possible. This means sizing the exhaust properly to minimize restriction and then designing the headers and such to make for good, smooth flow and proper merges to keep the flow fast, steady and get good scavenging.
Another no-no is restrictive mufflers with big pipes. Ideally, mufflers and such should be as non-restrictive as possible, allowing more flow without upsizing the pipes more than necessary (to keep velocity up).
A restrictive exhaust is actually better for around town driving and for low-end torque. You'll need this to maximize your gas mileage.
Nope. This is one of the biggest misconceptions in the car world.
Back pressure is always bad and will ALWAYS hurt power and torque. A too-large exhaust (like a 4" exhaust on a 100hp 4 cylinder) will hurt low end torque, but it's due to lack of exhaust velocity, not lack of back pressure. A too-small exhaust with more back pressure will hurt low end torque and top end power compared to a properly sized and designed exhaust.
The goal is to keep velocity up but have as little back pressure as possible. This means sizing the exhaust properly to minimize restriction and then designing the headers and such to make for good, smooth flow and proper merges to keep the flow fast, steady and get good scavenging.
Another no-no is restrictive mufflers with big pipes. Ideally, mufflers and such should be as non-restrictive as possible, allowing more flow without upsizing the pipes more than necessary (to keep velocity up).
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The more I see of these cars the more I'm liking them. I saw an orange one that looked awesome!! They look really classy and high end.
Originally Posted By: rslifkin
Originally Posted By: Silverado12
A restrictive exhaust is actually better for around town driving and for low-end torque. You'll need this to maximize your gas mileage.
Nope. This is one of the biggest misconceptions in the car world.
Back pressure is always bad and will ALWAYS hurt power and torque. A too-large exhaust (like a 4" exhaust on a 100hp 4 cylinder) will hurt low end torque, but it's due to lack of exhaust velocity, not lack of back pressure. A too-small exhaust with more back pressure will hurt low end torque and top end power compared to a properly sized and designed exhaust.
The goal is to keep velocity up but have as little back pressure as possible. This means sizing the exhaust properly to minimize restriction and then designing the headers and such to make for good, smooth flow and proper merges to keep the flow fast, steady and get good scavenging.
Another no-no is restrictive mufflers with big pipes. Ideally, mufflers and such should be as non-restrictive as possible, allowing more flow without upsizing the pipes more than necessary (to keep velocity up).
OK, maybe I should have reworded that. The STOCK exhaust is better for around town driving.
Originally Posted By: Silverado12
A restrictive exhaust is actually better for around town driving and for low-end torque. You'll need this to maximize your gas mileage.
Nope. This is one of the biggest misconceptions in the car world.
Back pressure is always bad and will ALWAYS hurt power and torque. A too-large exhaust (like a 4" exhaust on a 100hp 4 cylinder) will hurt low end torque, but it's due to lack of exhaust velocity, not lack of back pressure. A too-small exhaust with more back pressure will hurt low end torque and top end power compared to a properly sized and designed exhaust.
The goal is to keep velocity up but have as little back pressure as possible. This means sizing the exhaust properly to minimize restriction and then designing the headers and such to make for good, smooth flow and proper merges to keep the flow fast, steady and get good scavenging.
Another no-no is restrictive mufflers with big pipes. Ideally, mufflers and such should be as non-restrictive as possible, allowing more flow without upsizing the pipes more than necessary (to keep velocity up).
OK, maybe I should have reworded that. The STOCK exhaust is better for around town driving.
^^^Indeed.
Many also confuse noise with power production. Completely false.
I remember when I had a Neon RT, the factory single pipe was great and worked better for power than almost any aftermarket exhaust as long as you were N/A. The factory exhaust on my sig car is 2 7/8 yet is quiet as a mouse unless your foot is down.
The pipes must be matched carefully to the engine's needs...
Many also confuse noise with power production. Completely false.
I remember when I had a Neon RT, the factory single pipe was great and worked better for power than almost any aftermarket exhaust as long as you were N/A. The factory exhaust on my sig car is 2 7/8 yet is quiet as a mouse unless your foot is down.
The pipes must be matched carefully to the engine's needs...
I see a lot of comments and advice from people who have probably never modded a small car.
I have, so hers my take.
I had a 94 escort with the 1.9 I4, not the gt. Weak and under powered but got good mileage. For fun, I removed the intake silencer and installed a full length tube header. I did this with a little more than 100k on the clock.
It was easily the best thing I ever did to that car. Even with a stock exhaust otherwise, after the install it would rev cleanly to redline, rather than nosing over at 5,000 rpm. The power increase from 2,000 to 4,000 was very noticeable as well. Walking up hills in 5th no longer required a downshift, or WOT to maintain speed.
I also picked up 2-3mpg with the install as well. This was comparing directly to my 94 escort wagon(exactly the same except a wagon rather than a hatchback). The wagon always got me 31-33mpg. The hatchback got me 34-36mpg with the same use.
It can be worth it. The car was a TON more fun to drive. Longevity was unaffected. I drove that car trouble free for another 110k miles with that tube header. Other than having to re-tighten the header bolts at the top every couple oil changes, there wasn't really a downside.
I did it for fun, not to beat the next guy. It was for me alone, as aside from the slightly different exhaust note and extra noise from the intake and tube header itself, no one beside me would ever know about it.
This wasn't an emissions compliant mod, though, as the tube header removed the converter. I also had to have a bung welded onto the header so I could hook up the egr tube.
Totally worth it and almost did it to the wagon as well, but sold it instead.
I also had H&R sport springs on the hatchback. Rode great and handled like it was on rails. But again, I did it for me, and I enjoyed the mod. The only downside to the springs was after I moved to SD, I lost 1.5 inches of snow clearance that I suddenly needed. But I got some snow tires and made it work.
Even with those mods, it wouldn't even come close to a mustang or even a ford probe. But who cares? The car was still a ton more fun than it was stock.
Do what you enjoy and don't worry about the next guy. It's not about being better than someone else, it's aboit being better than it was - even if it is just in your own opinion.
I have, so hers my take.
I had a 94 escort with the 1.9 I4, not the gt. Weak and under powered but got good mileage. For fun, I removed the intake silencer and installed a full length tube header. I did this with a little more than 100k on the clock.
It was easily the best thing I ever did to that car. Even with a stock exhaust otherwise, after the install it would rev cleanly to redline, rather than nosing over at 5,000 rpm. The power increase from 2,000 to 4,000 was very noticeable as well. Walking up hills in 5th no longer required a downshift, or WOT to maintain speed.
I also picked up 2-3mpg with the install as well. This was comparing directly to my 94 escort wagon(exactly the same except a wagon rather than a hatchback). The wagon always got me 31-33mpg. The hatchback got me 34-36mpg with the same use.
It can be worth it. The car was a TON more fun to drive. Longevity was unaffected. I drove that car trouble free for another 110k miles with that tube header. Other than having to re-tighten the header bolts at the top every couple oil changes, there wasn't really a downside.
I did it for fun, not to beat the next guy. It was for me alone, as aside from the slightly different exhaust note and extra noise from the intake and tube header itself, no one beside me would ever know about it.
This wasn't an emissions compliant mod, though, as the tube header removed the converter. I also had to have a bung welded onto the header so I could hook up the egr tube.
Totally worth it and almost did it to the wagon as well, but sold it instead.
I also had H&R sport springs on the hatchback. Rode great and handled like it was on rails. But again, I did it for me, and I enjoyed the mod. The only downside to the springs was after I moved to SD, I lost 1.5 inches of snow clearance that I suddenly needed. But I got some snow tires and made it work.
Even with those mods, it wouldn't even come close to a mustang or even a ford probe. But who cares? The car was still a ton more fun than it was stock.
Do what you enjoy and don't worry about the next guy. It's not about being better than someone else, it's aboit being better than it was - even if it is just in your own opinion.
Sounds like you already have a good looking car. I would invest in some quality detailing products and spend a little time keeping it looking good.
I really don't think you'll gain any performance with bolt ons, but a CAI is easily reversible if you decide to go back to stock. It's also quiet unless you're really into the throttle. I would leave the exhaust stock. Some lowering springs would be nice, but I would wait until the car is paid off.
Something you might consider upgrading is the stereo system. That makes a huge difference in my opinion. Crutchfield is a good place to browse. Also, a nice weighted leather shift knob gives a better feel. I think I read your car is stick shift.
I really don't think you'll gain any performance with bolt ons, but a CAI is easily reversible if you decide to go back to stock. It's also quiet unless you're really into the throttle. I would leave the exhaust stock. Some lowering springs would be nice, but I would wait until the car is paid off.
Something you might consider upgrading is the stereo system. That makes a huge difference in my opinion. Crutchfield is a good place to browse. Also, a nice weighted leather shift knob gives a better feel. I think I read your car is stick shift.
OVERKILL
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Originally Posted By: meborder
I see a lot of comments and advice from people who have probably never modded a small car.
I have, so hers my take.
I had a 94 escort
A lot has changed since 1994 though. The stock stuff is pretty bloody good nowadays.
I see a lot of comments and advice from people who have probably never modded a small car.
I have, so hers my take.
I had a 94 escort
A lot has changed since 1994 though. The stock stuff is pretty bloody good nowadays.
Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
A lot has changed since 1994 though. The stock stuff is pretty bloody good nowadays.
Fair enough, but they weren't too shabby back then to be honest. The stuck stuff back then didn't leave much on the table either.
But then as now, a long tube header will almost always show some gains over a manifold. Shorties, not so much.
I'd be surprised if I gained more than 10hp with the exhaust, but that was about a 10-11% gain ... And that's pretty noticeable.
If we were talking about an SRT, id agree with you 100%. But on everyday stuff they dont eek out every ounce like they do on the specialty stuff, so id be willing to bet there are gains to be had, even if one could say it isn't "worth it"
But if you enjoy it, then it is worth it, regardless of the cost/benefit ratio.
A lot has changed since 1994 though. The stock stuff is pretty bloody good nowadays.
Fair enough, but they weren't too shabby back then to be honest. The stuck stuff back then didn't leave much on the table either.
But then as now, a long tube header will almost always show some gains over a manifold. Shorties, not so much.
I'd be surprised if I gained more than 10hp with the exhaust, but that was about a 10-11% gain ... And that's pretty noticeable.
If we were talking about an SRT, id agree with you 100%. But on everyday stuff they dont eek out every ounce like they do on the specialty stuff, so id be willing to bet there are gains to be had, even if one could say it isn't "worth it"
But if you enjoy it, then it is worth it, regardless of the cost/benefit ratio.
OVERKILL
$100 Site Donor 2021
Originally Posted By: meborder
Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
A lot has changed since 1994 though. The stock stuff is pretty bloody good nowadays.
Fair enough, but they weren't too shabby back then to be honest. The stuck stuff back then didn't leave much on the table either.
But then as now, a long tube header will almost always show some gains over a manifold. Shorties, not so much.
I'd be surprised if I gained more than 10hp with the exhaust, but that was about a 10-11% gain ... And that's pretty noticeable.
If we were talking about an SRT, id agree with you 100%. But on everyday stuff they dont eek out every ounce like they do on the specialty stuff, so id be willing to bet there are gains to be had, even if one could say it isn't "worth it"
But if you enjoy it, then it is worth it, regardless of the cost/benefit ratio.
I had an '87 Mustang GT. The 302 suffered from poor flowing heads, uneven intake distribution, a choking air silencer and awful factory exhaust with factory "headers" that were not really any better than manifolds. Pulling the silencer was the only mod needed to the intake tract. The rest of the stock setup was fine. Opening up the exhaust with even shorties made a difference, long tubes, while expensive and requiring a different H-pipe, were even better. Even then, the improvements weren't huge. A better set of heads and intake was the first step in really gaining power.
A quick google of the OP's exhaust shows the following:
http://www.dodge-dart.org/forum/dodge-da...eat-shield.html
Factory tubular header, looks pretty darn good IMHO.
The stock intake plumbing, while busy and chalk full of silencers, doesn't look restrictive at first glance either:
Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
A lot has changed since 1994 though. The stock stuff is pretty bloody good nowadays.
Fair enough, but they weren't too shabby back then to be honest. The stuck stuff back then didn't leave much on the table either.
But then as now, a long tube header will almost always show some gains over a manifold. Shorties, not so much.
I'd be surprised if I gained more than 10hp with the exhaust, but that was about a 10-11% gain ... And that's pretty noticeable.
If we were talking about an SRT, id agree with you 100%. But on everyday stuff they dont eek out every ounce like they do on the specialty stuff, so id be willing to bet there are gains to be had, even if one could say it isn't "worth it"
But if you enjoy it, then it is worth it, regardless of the cost/benefit ratio.
I had an '87 Mustang GT. The 302 suffered from poor flowing heads, uneven intake distribution, a choking air silencer and awful factory exhaust with factory "headers" that were not really any better than manifolds. Pulling the silencer was the only mod needed to the intake tract. The rest of the stock setup was fine. Opening up the exhaust with even shorties made a difference, long tubes, while expensive and requiring a different H-pipe, were even better. Even then, the improvements weren't huge. A better set of heads and intake was the first step in really gaining power.
A quick google of the OP's exhaust shows the following:
http://www.dodge-dart.org/forum/dodge-da...eat-shield.html
Factory tubular header, looks pretty darn good IMHO.
The stock intake plumbing, while busy and chalk full of silencers, doesn't look restrictive at first glance either:
Your right the factory manifold does look pretty good. I did make a decision and like said above it'll be just for me but I've gathered that the factory exhaust is pretty darn good but I think I'm going to remove the resonator. It'll have more of the sound I want and it won't cost much it'll also probably do nothing for performance but that's ok.
With the old Neons, the muffler was clamped to the intermediate pipe. You could unbolt the muffler, get a piece of pipe bent and have a throatier sounding exhaust for next to nothing. The factory exhaust was already robust, so it didn't add any power and surprisingly it didn't make the exhaust too noisy. The best part was you could always clamp the muffler back on.
I like to lightly mod my vehicles. If it's a V8, I almost always do the exhaust. Here is my 2014 Mustang GT stock and here it is after changing the wheels and adding the rear side window louvers.
Dealer picture of the car before I bought it.
Here is a shot of the back where you can see the smaller 3" factory exhaust tips.
Here is a shot of the Ford GT500 Mufflers and tips that I installed. Car sounds much better than stock, the 4" tips fill out the lower valence better, and there is no drone. I also added a set of factory GT500 over the axle pipes that have no resonators.
I also added a factory Ford strut tower brace under the hood. Other than my oil catch can, all of the modifications I have done have been done with Ford parts.
Wayne
Dealer picture of the car before I bought it.
Here is a shot of the back where you can see the smaller 3" factory exhaust tips.
Here is a shot of the Ford GT500 Mufflers and tips that I installed. Car sounds much better than stock, the 4" tips fill out the lower valence better, and there is no drone. I also added a set of factory GT500 over the axle pipes that have no resonators.
I also added a factory Ford strut tower brace under the hood. Other than my oil catch can, all of the modifications I have done have been done with Ford parts.
Wayne
I also forgot to mention that I added a Ford rubber trunk liner, Ford all weather rubber floor mats, a Ford aluminum finned rear axle cover, A Ford locking gas plug for the filler tube, Ford locking lug nuts and a Ford trunk net.
Wayne
Wayne
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I love the window louvers. I'd add metal rear window louvers too if I had a Mustang.
Originally Posted By: wtd
I also forgot to mention that I added a Ford rubber trunk liner, Ford all weather rubber floor mats, a Ford aluminum finned rear axle cover, A Ford locking gas plug for the filler tube, Ford locking lug nuts and a Ford trunk net.
Wayne
All the mods look great and much better than stock. Good job taking off the dealership advertising sticker.
I also forgot to mention that I added a Ford rubber trunk liner, Ford all weather rubber floor mats, a Ford aluminum finned rear axle cover, A Ford locking gas plug for the filler tube, Ford locking lug nuts and a Ford trunk net.
Wayne
All the mods look great and much better than stock. Good job taking off the dealership advertising sticker.
Originally Posted By: ram_man
Your right the factory manifold does look pretty good. I did make a decision and like said above it'll be just for me but I've gathered that the factory exhaust is pretty darn good but I think I'm going to remove the resonator. It'll have more of the sound I want and it won't cost much it'll also probably do nothing for performance but that's ok.
Window tint, mud guards if they're oem, all season floor mats or weathertech floor liners and misc other oem accessories that strike your interest. Oh yeah and some touch up paint.
Your right the factory manifold does look pretty good. I did make a decision and like said above it'll be just for me but I've gathered that the factory exhaust is pretty darn good but I think I'm going to remove the resonator. It'll have more of the sound I want and it won't cost much it'll also probably do nothing for performance but that's ok.
Window tint, mud guards if they're oem, all season floor mats or weathertech floor liners and misc other oem accessories that strike your interest. Oh yeah and some touch up paint.
I forgot to mention that I deleted the silencer in front of the airbox on the Cruze. Along with the tune, it made the bypass valve more noticeable when it dumps full boost. Some turbine whine/whistle also gets into the cabin when the turbo is making a fair bit of boost. The effect is one I enjoy, and the best part is that it was free and easily reversible.
Thanks guys. I'm happy with the things I've done. I've not done any engine tunes or suspension mods just because I want to maintain my warranty and I'm happy with the stock power and how the car rides and the stock ride height so I doubt I ever do either of those.
I'm more into reliability these days so I keep things mostly stock.
Wayne
I'm more into reliability these days so I keep things mostly stock.
Wayne
My 2007 Mazdaspeed 3 has a few mods, but my goal was to increase horsepower and handling without affecting the comfort or usability of the car.
All I did to the engine was install the Mazdaspeed Cold Air Intake and a Hypertech tune. Those changes boosted horsepower to @300 and torque to 324 lb-ft. A rear motor mount from an E-Focus tightened engine movement up a bit without transmitting vibration to the interior.
The suspension work consisted of KONI FSD struts/shocks and a James Barone Racing anti-roll bar set to 50% stiffer than stock. Finally, I added Michelin PSS tires fitted to 2nd generation MS3 wheels.
I've been very pleased with the final result- comfortable when puttering around, but seriously quick when you want to have a bit of fun.
All I did to the engine was install the Mazdaspeed Cold Air Intake and a Hypertech tune. Those changes boosted horsepower to @300 and torque to 324 lb-ft. A rear motor mount from an E-Focus tightened engine movement up a bit without transmitting vibration to the interior.
The suspension work consisted of KONI FSD struts/shocks and a James Barone Racing anti-roll bar set to 50% stiffer than stock. Finally, I added Michelin PSS tires fitted to 2nd generation MS3 wheels.
I've been very pleased with the final result- comfortable when puttering around, but seriously quick when you want to have a bit of fun.
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