Not bad for a cardboard Fram! 10k on a TG8316

[slacktide_bitog]

2002 Focus, Zetec engine, 160k on the car now
OCI was 10k and one year.
Oil used was Castrol Edge Black 5w20

I replaced it with an M1-211 and PP 0w20

The only reason I used the Tough Guard is because it was the best oil filter for these cars at a decent price, before I discovered Rock Auto's closeout specials. So I won't be using a Tuff Guard or any other carboard Fram again. That said, the TG actually doesn't look bad!

Date code A40651 - March 6, 2014
A - Greenville, OH
4 - 2014
065 - 65th day of the year (march 6)
1- first shift

The silicone ADBV was soft and pliable, but it was so thin!

I'll give Fram credit for making the thread-end spring removable (the bell thing)

 

[spasm3]

Not bad at all. Thanks for the pics!

 

[Fordai]

Nice! Thanks for the C&P! I have been drawn to the Tough Guard for my next oci, especially with RockAuto pricing. The M1-212 for my Explorer was over $16 on RockAuto (way overpriced).

 

[slacktide_bitog]

Originally Posted By: Fordai
Nice! Thanks for the C&P! I have been drawn to the Tough Guard for my next oci, especially with RockAuto pricing. The M1-212 for my Explorer was over $16 on RockAuto (way overpriced).


Get Ultra instead

There is a $2 rebate on the Ultra, and you can get two rebates. I think you'd use the XG10575.

They don't make an Ultra for my Focus, otherwise the part number would be XG8316.

Nothing wrong with the CQ Blue you're using now though.

 

[Inspecktor]

I really haven't seen bad Fram cardboard filter dissections on BITOG. I guess fiber product are easy to glue together, as any one who has helped their kids with school projects knows.

 

[dlundblad]

The TG is an exceptional value IMO. Too many people are quick to say the Ultra is better, but they are hardly ever used to their full potential here. Look at the last ones posted. The TG would have worked just as good.

Id say this looks better than my TG16. I cant even tell where the seam is on yours. For kicks, I tried tearing an end cap off the media and it came off in 3 pieces. The glue was still remaining and kept the media in place.

 

[BikeWhisperer]

I noticed the thin ADBV on the TG I dissected a couple weeks ago too. But I never had a startup rattle and oil pressure always came right up so it's effective.

That filter looks great otherwise, no need to fear the fiber end caps. They obviously work just fine.

 

[aquariuscsm]

Out of all the dissected filter pics I've seen on here,Fram always looks the best.

 

[ZeeOSix]

Originally Posted By: slacktide_bitog
I'll give Fram credit for making the thread-end spring removable (the bell thing)

That looks like an "anti siphon" valve that sits in the center core. I'm assuming the spring on that valve is much softer than the one in the bypass valve in the dome end, since the wire diameter on the coil spring is much smaller.

Filter looks to be in great shape.

 

[slacktide_bitog]

Originally Posted By: ZeeOSix


That looks like an "anti siphon" valve that sits in the center core. I'm assuming the spring on that valve is much softer than the one in the bypass valve in the dome end.

Filter looks to be in great shape.


Yes, it's an anti-siphon valve, which is present in every properly-designed oil filter for this engine (Fram 8316, Wix 51315, FL2005, etc). Without it, the car can be grumpy at times. There was a lot of oil in the filter when I cut it open, so it was still doing its job.

The spring on that valve was indeed softer than the dome-end bypass.

 

[itguy08]

Originally Posted By: BikeWhisperer

That filter looks great otherwise, no need to fear the fiber end caps. They obviously work just fine.


Of course there's no reason to fear the cardboard. It's the same material used for the filter media. Funny how people trust it to filter but not on the ends!

 

[crazyoildude]

Looks ok for 10,000 miles at least there were no tears like another filter company we used to buy from.. As far as filters i like Wix because across the board they all seem to have great build quality. With fram the only filter i would use is the ultra.

 

[webfors]

That filter looks perfect.

Let's see a pic of the media at the seam please.

 

[tratman2000]

Great looking filter I like the TG for the money. In my Kia's it's only $1 more than ocod I have one of each in use now when they are done with 7500 oci I'm gonna open and compare them.

 

[mjoekingz28]

Can you filter cutter folks actually find any shavings, sediment, etc when dissecting a used oil filter. Is it like looking at an air filter where the dirt is clearly seen. Or is it covered in oil and inside the filter media making it almost impossible to report?

 

[ZeeOSix]

Originally Posted By: mjoekingz28
Can you filter cutter folks actually find any shavings, sediment, etc when dissecting a used oil filter. Is it like looking at an air filter where the dirt is clearly seen. Or is it covered in oil and inside the filter media making it almost impossible to report?


Best thing that works that I've found is wrap the media in a paper towel held on with rubber bands for a day to wick out the oil. Then take a strong flashlight and look down inside the pleats. Most large stuff that you can see with your eyes will be down deep in the pleat folds.

 

[53' Stude]

I cut a FRAM HM16 from dads work friends 4.0 jeep that had some minuscule shavings or stuff. Probably from when the guy rebuilt the cylinder head.... Dunno. I have found grit and carbonish chunks when I cut some of my MC-FL400S

 

[SilverC6]

Originally Posted By: aquariuscsm
Out of all the dissected filter pics I've seen on here,Fram always looks the best.


I've noticed a few FRAM clunkers posted here on BITOG.

Wix and NAPA Gold are always great though.

But the OP's filter looks good.

 

[Clevy]

I bought a pile of motomaster oil filters which are re-badged tough guards. I've now run 3 intervals on 2 vehicles at 20000 miles each.
Upon dissection the end caps are still securely glued,rubber valve still pliable and truth be told they look like they could go another interval.
Now no way would I suggest running this kind of extended filter interval unless the engine is known clean,which mine are.
I getting ready to do an oil change on the charger within the next few weeks so upon dissection I'll have more evidence that typical filter changes are way too short and even medium tiered filters easily last double their suggested intervals.
Oil filters become more efficient as the media loads up. So a new filter will let larger particulate through vs one with miles on it.
So once a filter is semi loaded it's trapping the particulate that does the most damage (5-15 microns) which prevents more wear than running a new filter.
I carefully watch my oil pressure,and if any anomalies present themselves I see it immediately.
Even at 20000 mile intervals my oil pressure doesn't vary and re,aims consistent when compared to new vs the 20000 mile examples.
There is no evidence the filters are experiencing more by-pass events vs new filters.
I find crud build up in between the pleats but the flats are clear,which indicates lots of filter media for oil to pass thru.
I've always run 2 oil changes per filter since my early 20s. However after becoming a bitoger I wanted to test a theory that even at double the recommended interval a filter still cleans oil,and cleans it better.
Thus far my suspicions have been correct and not only does it save me a couple of bucks but the particulate that does the most damage,is too small to be effectively filtered however once the media is loaded the media's pores then become small enough to catch these smaller more damaging particles.
So I laugh at these guys running ultra filters at short intervals. They don't comprehend that once changing it actually allows more particulate to pass into the engine.
I would never,ever suggest a person follows this routine unless they know without a doubt their engines are clean inside

 

[goodtimes]

The adbv does seem thin but it sits different than most, like on a convex hill. They would engineer it for that positioning. I use Ultras or other top filters and change every 5k. Usually I am anxious to get it done at 5k. I am not going broke spending $5 more per year. When they do the efficiency testing, they use a new filter. I don't see them saying efficiency improves until the filter no longer filters. I want a new filter on there also, like the test, to catch as much dirt as possible. Try putting a fine pore filter next to a large pore and flow dirty oil through them, which will plug first, the fine or the coarse? Obviously the fine. To me, your filter needed changing in these pictures.