How are TPMS units usually mounted?

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I got a smoking deal on a set of winter wheels & tires with the sensors from someone locally, but I might end up putting those tires on different wheels. Are the existing sensors going to be impossible to remove and transfer to the new wheels?

I believe they are made by Beru (OEM supplier).
 
They are part of the valve stem and can usually be transferred to a new set of wheels pretty easily.
 
They slide through the valve hole from the inside and have a rubber seal around the base.

Then there is a bolt that you run down on the outside to hold it in place.
 
I like to put a bit of high quality silicone grease around the base seal before seating it.

My favorite is Wurth Silicone Compound. It is an extremely thick grease, almost doesn't squeeze out of the tube!

Great on door seals, caliper guide (slider) pins etc.

Pricey but lasts a lifetime.
 
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Originally Posted By: eljefino
The nut on the outside needs a very specific torque.


This is true. I usually sell a new nut with new sensors, they don't come with on Mazda. Ford uses a rubber stem attached to the sensor on the newer systems. The older ones were a band type with the sensor in the drop centre of the wheel 180 degrees from the stem.
 
Originally Posted By: bdcardinal
Originally Posted By: eljefino
The nut on the outside needs a very specific torque.


This is true. I usually sell a new nut with new sensors, they don't come with on Mazda. Ford uses a rubber stem attached to the sensor on the newer systems. The older ones were a band type with the sensor in the drop centre of the wheel 180 degrees from the stem.


I serviced a brand new Mazda CX-5 today for a flat repair and it didn't have sensors! I wish my '09 Mazda6 was like this as it'd make it a little easier to have different sets of wheels. From what I gather they utilize data from the ABS/DSC/Trac system to determine if a tire is low, much like the new Volkswagens I've had come in.

Dill and Schrader are what we use for rebuild kits, they usually for the most part replace the rubber grommet, grommet seat washer if any, the retaining nut/washer and the valve core as necessary on the aluminum stem sensors, and for some of the GM/Ford the Dill kit replaces the rubber stem (with core pre-installed) and the screw. The bugger for me is the rebuild kits for Honda/Hyundai that make you twist past an initial torque stop then tighten to spec; I've had two of these require so much force to go past the initial stop that it strip the threads of the retaining screw that attaches the stem to the sensor and necessitated replacement of the stem. Could have been a bad retaining nut, or just a stem/screw that was worn, but in either case I prefer the design where it's like a t-bolt that slides into the sensor as I've never really had an issue with these.
 
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