Switching Between Synthetic & Dino Oil

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To all concerned,

I know of no reason why it is bad to switch from synthetic oil to dino. The rinse phase is facilitated best using a mineral oil base with no polar ingredients, which translates into cheap dino oil. Rinsing with a polarized oil is counter- productive in rinsing. However it can be done. In either event the service life of the rinse oil will be for only 2000 miles on dino, 3000 miles on synthetic. Either way you will be using only 2/3’s of the normal oil life in the rinse phase. Do you want to spend $4.00 per quart for synthetic, or $1.00 per quart to run the relatively short rinse phase.

The other safety feature built into rinsing with a dino oil is this. If your crank and cam seals are working as false seals, running dino as a rinse will fix any leak that may have developed. A false seal is described as sludge forming the seal on the rotating shaft, as opposed to the polymer seal material itself. Once the sludge is removed, a seal can start weeping. If you are running dino oil, the tendency is for the mineral oil to shrink down the seal material back into shape around the rotating shaft. If you are rinsing with a full synthetic, the seal will stay more pliable or flimsy and will not reconform to the rotating shaft.

So here are a couple of reasons why we recommend dino oil for the rinse phase. Dino is recommended for best results. However, you may rinse with synthetic if you choose to.


Regards,
Rich21
 
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