I would have to agree mongo. If the car specs conventional and is supposed to run 8k OCIs, I don't see how they could have a problem with a couple quarts of PP mixed into the PYB. Really you should be able run the OCI on just conventional if it meets the spec.
Opinions on Synthetic Blend Oils
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It is silly to blend your own oil for a brand new car when their are plenty of oils you can use.Any name brand oil will work.Mopar specs are not that strict that you have to go to the ends of the earth to find oil.I dont know what the factory fill is but i am sure it is a major brand so if you are still in doubt,just keep using that.
You are trying to overthink this.
You are trying to overthink this.
What are the details on the Chrysler spec?
It may be that the Ford spec eclipses it, in which case the Motorcraft SB would be fine.
I suspect it would be just fine anyway.
Motorcraft SB has shown good UOAs on here in a variety of applications.
It is also a good value at Walmart.
It may be that the Ford spec eclipses it, in which case the Motorcraft SB would be fine.
I suspect it would be just fine anyway.
Motorcraft SB has shown good UOAs on here in a variety of applications.
It is also a good value at Walmart.
Originally Posted By: fdcg27
What are the details on the Chrysler spec?
It may be that the Ford spec eclipses it, in which case the Motorcraft SB would be fine.
I suspect it would be just fine anyway.
Motorcraft SB has shown good UOAs on here in a variety of applications.
It is also a good value at Walmart.
Have you check prices lately?
Even ST Syn is 20.57 / 5 qt
What are the details on the Chrysler spec?
It may be that the Ford spec eclipses it, in which case the Motorcraft SB would be fine.
I suspect it would be just fine anyway.
Motorcraft SB has shown good UOAs on here in a variety of applications.
It is also a good value at Walmart.
Have you check prices lately?
Even ST Syn is 20.57 / 5 qt
When syn/blends hit the market, I for one, thought that they were 50/50 mix. Turns out, they're not even close. Although today, I beleive that a blend is an O.K. oil due to good refining and the latest ILSAC standards, I still don't think there is enough syn oil in the blend to make it worth it cost beyond regular dino oils.
I do beleive in mixing your own dino/syn to make your own blend. At least you'll know the % of syn oil that is in the mix. I also beleive that regular conventional(dino) motor oils today are better than ever before and may even rival full synthetic motor oils for at least a short oil change interval(OCI) ~5000 miles. Beyond that, it's anyones guess, or a used oil analysis(UOA) just how many miles a dino can go and still have a good report!
As-far-as the vehicle warranty goes, the OP needs to document the oil/filter changes should a engine warranty issue arise. Use the oil that meet the Chrysler spec and sleep well at night.
Also, even though the dealer oil change is only $8.00(a good price), they can't "require" you to change the oil with them at any point in time for any reason unless you signed something. Only then, would you be locked in to doing so. Under the warranty period, if the dealership "requires" that you use them or their oil/filter(or anything else for that matter), they have to by law, give it to you.
Maybe they "recomend" that you do the 1st OCI with them and not "require" it; that's different! But, the dealer can't "require" anything from you except that you pay for the car. But, during the warranty period, it's KMA!
I do beleive in mixing your own dino/syn to make your own blend. At least you'll know the % of syn oil that is in the mix. I also beleive that regular conventional(dino) motor oils today are better than ever before and may even rival full synthetic motor oils for at least a short oil change interval(OCI) ~5000 miles. Beyond that, it's anyones guess, or a used oil analysis(UOA) just how many miles a dino can go and still have a good report!
As-far-as the vehicle warranty goes, the OP needs to document the oil/filter changes should a engine warranty issue arise. Use the oil that meet the Chrysler spec and sleep well at night.
Also, even though the dealer oil change is only $8.00(a good price), they can't "require" you to change the oil with them at any point in time for any reason unless you signed something. Only then, would you be locked in to doing so. Under the warranty period, if the dealership "requires" that you use them or their oil/filter(or anything else for that matter), they have to by law, give it to you.
Maybe they "recomend" that you do the 1st OCI with them and not "require" it; that's different! But, the dealer can't "require" anything from you except that you pay for the car. But, during the warranty period, it's KMA!
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Yeah, that is just what that dealership does with the 1st oil change. They have you sign an appointment showing that you will come for the first oil change with them after 3,000 miles. I didn't make a stink about it because they're only charging me $8 and I can have them address any small issues that may come up between now and then.
I will definitely write down all maintenance and keep every receipt. Thanks for the tips.
I will definitely write down all maintenance and keep every receipt. Thanks for the tips.
After your $8 "signed appointment" for an oil change at 3K you are free to use whatever oil you wish: it would be advisable to use the weight they specify and keep records of the dates and something to document purchase of the oil & filters.
MS-6395 should be easy to investigate. It is probably less specific than the "new" GM drivel, & as previously mentioned any SN/ILSAC GF-5 probably meets/exceeds the spec.
If a SN PYB does, You can bet a SN Valvoline, Castrol, etc. will also.
Almost every 5W-20 oil is already "semi-synthetic" to begin with!
Why not just ask Motorcraft if their SN 5W-20 meets the spec?
Cheers!
p.s With the AMSOIL or any full synthetic (PP, SynPower, etc.)you could surely go 8K!
MS-6395 should be easy to investigate. It is probably less specific than the "new" GM drivel, & as previously mentioned any SN/ILSAC GF-5 probably meets/exceeds the spec.
If a SN PYB does, You can bet a SN Valvoline, Castrol, etc. will also.
Almost every 5W-20 oil is already "semi-synthetic" to begin with!
Why not just ask Motorcraft if their SN 5W-20 meets the spec?
Cheers!
p.s With the AMSOIL or any full synthetic (PP, SynPower, etc.)you could surely go 8K!
Id run the Connoco Phillips syn blends. I know I can get Kendall GT1 around here for about 3 bucks a quart. One you are out of warranty you should be fine with the Motorcraft oil at Wal mart. Its a proven performer very similar to Trop Arctic.
I dont know that the PYB love is around here. Its always been hohum or worse. MC-SS slaughters QSGB. I have gas receipts and calculations showing 2mpg better with the MC-SS in my ranger. I put the QSGB in to help the engine break in faster as the MC-SS was feeling too slickery. The MCSS 5w20 is 13 bucks for 5 qts. Remember the Full Synthetic your buying at walmart probably doesnt have ANY synthetic component in it or its a minor syn blend at best. Group III is NOT synthetic.
Chubbs brought up a good point to use either a good conventional or synth.I use MC syn blend in my GMQ not because it's a syn blend but because it's excellent oil.I will not go out of my way to find a blended pcmo.Blending your own is an option. The Chrysler i currently change oil in is using QSUD 5w-20 and runs very well,quiet and smooth and is MS-6395 certified but it has ran conventional as well with the same results the owner and good friend just wanted synthetic oil in it.
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