thanks that’s exactly the stats I was looking for. Really wanted to ensure I didn’t do too much I marked half the bottle with sharpie and went slightly below it…. Appreciate it
Zinc additive question
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Sorry for so many replies but the only reason I even started using any additive is because of my oil analysis which I will attach. I changed from shell rotella t6 15W-40 to the M1 10W-40 as you can see two samples. The moly I added was late in the second oil change so it didn’t get time to work.
The first number in a multi-grade only references the minimum temperature for cold start pumpability, hence the "W" stands for winter.
0W-xx = -35°C
5W-xx = -30°C
10W-xx = -25°C
15W-xx = -20°C
20W-xx = -15°C
0W-40, 5W-40, 10W-40, 15W-40, 20W-40, and SAE 40 are all 40 grade oils (KV100 = 12.5 - 16.2 cSt) at operating temperature.
I still stand by the Mobil 1 FS 0W-40 recommendation without the Rislone. You don't need a lot of ZDDP. M1 FS 0W-40 contains ~1000 ppm which is more than sufficient. More ZDDP than necessary doesn't add more wear protection, just increases the side effects of ZDDP.
Expanding on what I said earlier, oil formulas are a careful balance to ensure no one additive overpowers another. Dumping in a foreign supplement will throw off that balance. Increased TAN, reduced service life, and loss of synergy with other additives are all risks from a condition known as additive clash.
Same with the MoS2. That's an outdated solid particle friction reducer that's far surpassed in effectiveness by modern liquid MoDTC at much lower concentrations. The 60-80 ppm MoDTC is doing far more than even 600-800 ppm of MoS2 would. In fact, the MoS2 is likely doing nothing at all.
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Thank you… I’m wondering now whether to change the oil with 1500mi on or wait lol
No reason to dump serviceable oil. Run it your normal interval and switch over at the next oil change.
Appreciate it. I always buy the oil in advance anyways… so the Mobil FS 0W-40 is the best I should use? Not 5W-40? What about genuine Mercedes’ oil, pennsoil or amsoil? I’ll pay more if it’s better… sorry I don’t know much about oils and I just made my account here yesterday lol
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OVERKILL
$100 Site Donor 2021
Lots of Euro engines are cam-over bucket, the S62 in my M5 was for example, and it spun significantly higher (so had heavier springs). I ran M1 0w-40 in it (which was LL-01 approved at the time) and that's the same oil that's used in MB's AMG products. You'll be well served by it. It has higher levels of AW additives than the 10w-40 you are using presently.
OVERKILL
$100 Site Donor 2021
The number in front of the W is the Winter rating of the oil, it is not a viscosity figure. ALL oils get thicker as they cool, an oil with a better Winter rating just means it can be used in lower temperatures; is qualified to pump, and not impact cranking speed at a certain set of temperatures (-40C/-35C for the 0W-xx designation for example) as laid out in SAE J300.
Thank you, I appreciate it. Is there anything you recommend to do based on my previous attached UOA? I have no idea why there is so much metal in the oil…
OVERKILL
$100 Site Donor 2021
Well, the copper is most likely bearing material unless its chelation from some other component, but that's unlikely with the oils you've run and the fact that lead is also high.
What's the history on the car? How long have you owned it? Is there the possibility somebody put Restore or some other additive in it that has metal in it? Has the car sat for an extended period of time?
While the numbers are a bit elevated (copper and lead, some engines track iron high, I wouldn't worry about that one) I'd want to establish a trend before getting concerned. Also, copper/lead (bearing material) can come from a particle streak and so only be transient, and no amount of ZDDP or Wizard in a can is going to have an impact on what's going on there.
i bought it July 2020 because the previous owner did a lot of major repairs like timing chain, transmission reaseal…. Bunch more. He had shell rotella t6 15W-40 when I changed it first then I started using the Mobil 1. No restore and it did sit for 3 months last summer. Probably did sit with previous owners too since it’s so old. It’s weird that the iron fell so drastically from the first oil change. Maybe the timing chain wears… I don’t know… kept thinking it was the top end because that is the only thing known to wear on my engine. The trend seems the same or slightly worse on the other two metals. Turns on instantly every time when warm, prob less than one turn over, and even when cold it sometimes turns on really fast… so I would assume compression is good. It did have some hard warm starting once but it somehow went away because it was fuel related and I’m replacing injectors among a lot of other stuff Monday. Car runs very well and drove it twice 4 hours each way at 85mph. (Florida I-4 and I-75). Reason I got worried is I also spent a lot of money on it and would not want to spend more if UOA indicates engine rebuild soon.
OVERKILL
$100 Site Donor 2021
Thank you, that helps.
The slightly elevated iron could be from the chain, or the sitting. Given that it dropped between the two reports, this points to it being something very minor, so as I said, I wouldn't worry about that one, it's the bearing material (lead/copper) that's concerning, but let's see where that goes in subsequent reports. Does it have an oil pressure gauge?
Yes oil pressure gauge. It keeps within spec all the time and pegs instantly. Seeming to think now that the iron was from the chain because there first UOA was after new chain, rails, tensioner were installed so probably the new chain was broken in. I’ll do another analysis soon. I really can’t see how bearings wear with the way I drive (conservatively) and how often I do oil changes…. Very strange and don’t want to spend $10k on new engine
OVERKILL
$100 Site Donor 2021
As I said, it could just be a particle streak, which is quite possible since the engine has been opened up. Basically, a small chunk of something abrasive made its way into the oil galleries and got into a bearing where it streaks, then embeds, The streaking bit looses some metal and it shows up in your UOA (lead/copper).
If it's just a streak, the numbers should taper off.
Good to hear on the oil pressure gauge.
I really hope so because I want to spend $1500 on my fuel system Monday.
Hey, I was looking more into the oil conversation and it seems that Mobil 1 claims 900ppm zddp for the 10-40HM and the UOA only showed 800. I don’t know if my mos2 additive reduced that but it’s highly unlikely since I only used around 420mL. Kept looking into the 0w and 5W until I found that the 10-40 has an hths of 3.9 which is .1 higher than the 5-40 FS x2. Redline 10-40 claims 4.4 and 6% noack which is insane. Of course it’s 3x the price but interesting… may have to use that for peace of mind and not to play chemist with additives as you said
First off as already explained the UOA does not show ZDDP it shows bare zinc atoms from decomposed compounds. And second your additive did not transmute zinc or phosphorus into another element.
oh, sorry. Thanks for the explanation. I meant they claim 900ppm zinc even though I got 800 only, that’s why I used some of the additive to increase it to at least 1000 I would hope
I wanted to update everyone on the last two oil analysis samples… the one with lower zinc is where I put the additive… they highlighted the viscosity because they thought it was a 30W not a 40W… the more recent sample is when I switched over to amsoil heavy duty diesel 15W-40 full synthetic and put around 4600 miles on that interval with a hengst oil filter. Car has 136k miles now
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