If you must additize--why not Redline OIl?

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Apart from those who use Lube Control (because I think it is a different animal than the typical additive), I am suggesting (if not beating my dead horse
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) that if one must add something to their oil then it might as well be a pint of Redline motor oil. Why? Well you can get more zddp from Valvoline Synpower Oil Treatment, but you also get a slug of thickeners that are not needed (none in Redline as it does not use VIIs except 5w40). I would avoid the GM Engine Oil Supplement as its about 6000 ppm zddp is a killer load, sure to throw off the balance of a motor oil unless one is very disciplined in limiting how much they add. Furthermore, it is not all that clear that a heavy load of zddp is really needed except in special situations and then there are oils that already have that included (Citgo Ultralife, straight Redline, M1 Racing, HDMO). You can add Rislone or MMO and they have their place if you want a thinner to help rinse things out, but its not the same as adding Redline.

Redline IMHO is the safest additive (my designation) because it is motor oil and the Redline tech folks have assured me that it will not have adverse reactions with other motor oil. It will slightly raise the zddp (50 or 60 ppm on a pint in a 5 qt system). It will give you a nice slug of moly (about 50 with a pint in a 5 qt system). But perhaps best of all, it will give you a slug of ester (guessing 50% so 8 ounces in a pint of Redline with a 5 quart system). What good is 8 ounces ester? Consider that ester is being included in a lot of the industry prepackaged additive packages, so the 8 ounces may actually net you 16 or maybe even 20 total in the sump. But even 8 ounces ester should improve cold starting by filming the metal parts and improving cold start flow (after all they add synthetic to improve pour point and cold start properties of some if not many oils). Another benefit of the ester is it should help your engine remain cleaner, if not help clean out existing deposits (sure other things can do that too and certainly if you are well gunked, Auto Rx or Neutra may be highly advisable for the initial cleaning). Did I once hear that it also helps boost TBN, ester that is?

Finally, the safe thing about Redline is you can't really over do it. Even if you throw in two quarts or the whole sump because it is motor oil. So you can satisfy your urge to home engineer the final touches of your motor oil and play it safe at the same time, while likely attaining real benefits.

Costwise, it is comparable to Synpower OIl Treatment at around $4 a pint, and a lot cheaper than many other additives of questionable value.

Here is the approximate levels of major additives in VOAs from Redline 5w30 and 10w40 (the values are relatively close between the two VOAs):

Moly: 670 ppm
Calcium: 2850 ppm
Phosphorus: 1400 ppm
Zinc: 1400 ppm

Edit: Let me add that my comment on not needing high levels of zddp is conditioned by the assumption that other additives are being used to make up the differente, but I do still get nervous about SM zddp levels and hence have over 150 quarts stash of SL.
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[ March 28, 2005, 04:48 PM: Message edited by: TallPaul ]
 
I would seriously consider it if I could get it OTC without having to hunt it down at a specialty shop somewhere.
 
There's about 16 quarts of Redline 5w30, and about the same amoutn of 10w30 spread out among the three Canadian Tire stores around town, $11.99 per quart. If it weren't so costly, or if I had money to burn, I'd run 4 quarts of that in my oilpan.
 
They've discontinued carrying Redline motor oils at Advance Auto Parts
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You might be able to find it on sale in their clearance bin, if someone hasn't cleaned them out yet... YMMV.
 
Tall Paul,

Actually, I've already taken your advice...that's why i grabbed 2 qts of RL 10/40 from the close-out sale at AAP.

Here's what I'm gonna do:
I'm going to do a UOA with the MC 10/40 + 10/30 brew in T-bird. When I'm taking the sample out I'm going to take about a qt out and replace with the RL.

As I'm already having a "brew" I've no idea where the visc/grade. would end up, but I also want to see if RL can quieten my 4.6L a little.

I'm really abusing the car right now:
4-5 trips per day which last only about 3 min
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(inside campus) this is done 5 days a week.
The longest and fastest trip the car sees is a 60 mile round-trip only ONCE a week at speeds of 55-60 mph.
on top of that I let the car idle for 3 hrs by mistake a few weeks ago.
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So I thought a slug of the RL can help over the summer...

Qusetion: would you advice me to add the RL and THEN do an UOA? (I'm already into about 1k with the MC brew though..want to run it for 3.5-4k miles...)
 
quote:

but I do still get nervous about SM zddp levels and hence have over 150 quarts stash of SL.

I'm over that fear.
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From what Carpy, Terry and Molekule have stated, supported by excellent UOA's, the SM GF-4 oils are better (conventional) then ever. Better additives along with better basestocks. Adding RL though isn't a bad idea for those that have some. Al has been doing this for awhile and suggesting it I believe.
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I personally don't like mixing oils.
 
I agree with buster....The "new" dino's (love that Havoline) are looking **** good....I give them a 1oz to 1 quart shot of Valvoline Synpower Oil Treatment......cannot deny the Valvoline oil treatment VOA......And I do not have to hire Lewis and Clark to go find Redline for me.....Either way your good to go......either one of us are not hurting anything and probably is overkill with the GF-4 stuff out there now anyway.....but it is not going to degrade your dino oil for sure...only help with the shot of ZDDP...IMHO of course
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