I am looking into buying a zero-turn mower for the upcoming season. Since it is such a major investment, I wanted to get some opinions about what brands, features, etc. to look for. Any thoughts?
Zero-Turn Mower
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Don't rule out a regular tractor. Steering in new ones are great. My son got a cub cadet 1050kw. It has 50 in h deck and a 8 inch turning circle, it cuts a lot of grass fast.
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I have a Husqvarna riding tractor and a self propelled mower. I try and mow as much as possible using the self propelled for the exercise.
I am not sure the avg. home owner can justify the extra expense of a zero-turn. You still need to do some trimming.
I am not sure the avg. home owner can justify the extra expense of a zero-turn. You still need to do some trimming.
Scag, eXmark, and Ferris are good ones. The problem with zero-turns is you have the commercial grade and the homeowner grade. The homeowner grade machines are NOT what you want. They have weaker hydro pumps which fail and cost loads of money to repair. They mow nice for one or two years then begin to get expensive to repair.
The commercial machines cost more up front, but will take abuse and last much longer. If price is a big factor, and mowing time isn't, I would purchase a decent riding tractor before I would buy a homeowner grade zero turn.
The commercial machines cost more up front, but will take abuse and last much longer. If price is a big factor, and mowing time isn't, I would purchase a decent riding tractor before I would buy a homeowner grade zero turn.
Look for a heavy gauge deck. If you're in for a penny, go in for a pound and buy from an outdoor power dealer and don't get the consumer grade units you find at Home Depot. Yes, the up-front cost is about 30% to 50% more, but you get a lot more machine for the dollar.
For our farm, I finally settled on a Ferris 52" with a 28 horse Briggs twin. We've only had it a season, but it is impressive. Fast, smooth, TOUGH so far. And all the blade spindles and individual parts are replaceable if necessary. What sold me on the Ferris was the gauge of the deck metal plus the spring suspension. Really makes a difference. The farmhand who usually does the upkeep is, well... lets' just say crusty. Opposed to change. Set in his ways. A pain in my...rear... at times. He's also got a bad back (as do I), and I really felt for him bouncing around on the JD. He scowled at me for weeks when I told him I was buying a ZT mower to replace the JD tractor we'd had out there for 12 years. He growled even more when I loaded up the JD and brought it to my house- I think he wanted to just keep using it. But after about 5 hours on the hour meter, he was LOVING the Ferris. I think he'd shoot me if I gave him the JD back! So I bounce around on it on the town lot and hurt *my* back... :-/
For our farm, I finally settled on a Ferris 52" with a 28 horse Briggs twin. We've only had it a season, but it is impressive. Fast, smooth, TOUGH so far. And all the blade spindles and individual parts are replaceable if necessary. What sold me on the Ferris was the gauge of the deck metal plus the spring suspension. Really makes a difference. The farmhand who usually does the upkeep is, well... lets' just say crusty. Opposed to change. Set in his ways. A pain in my...rear... at times. He's also got a bad back (as do I), and I really felt for him bouncing around on the JD. He scowled at me for weeks when I told him I was buying a ZT mower to replace the JD tractor we'd had out there for 12 years. He growled even more when I loaded up the JD and brought it to my house- I think he wanted to just keep using it. But after about 5 hours on the hour meter, he was LOVING the Ferris. I think he'd shoot me if I gave him the JD back! So I bounce around on it on the town lot and hurt *my* back... :-/
I have had an 48" eXmark Laser Z HP now for 10yrs and only used it to mow our 2 acres and my father-in-laws 5 acres. It has been a solid investment in my mind even if it did cost me $7k.
I went from a 60" Cub Cadet that took me over an hour and a half to mow our yard to only 50 minutes with the eXmark.
I went from a 60" Cub Cadet that took me over an hour and a half to mow our yard to only 50 minutes with the eXmark.
I cut just shy of seven acres and tried a couple of zero-turn mowers but each time ended up going back to a tractor. I have a few hills that, while not real steep, beat the zero-turns.
I use a 72" Woods (on a '47 Farmall) and 60" hydraulic Ingersoll and as a "spare" purchased a used 48" hydraulic Troy Bilt that has become my go-to mower.
I really like the zero-turns but they're just not right for my property. Close quarters and down by the creek was a dream with them though and for that reason alone, may add one to the stable....just because!
I use a 72" Woods (on a '47 Farmall) and 60" hydraulic Ingersoll and as a "spare" purchased a used 48" hydraulic Troy Bilt that has become my go-to mower.
I really like the zero-turns but they're just not right for my property. Close quarters and down by the creek was a dream with them though and for that reason alone, may add one to the stable....just because!
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Fleetmon, I agree with you completely. My previous property had two full lawn acres that needed to be mowed. I eventually tried a Cub Z-Force with a 44" fabricated deck and decent HydroGear ZT2800 drives with spin-on filters for a few seasons.
This machine didn't fit my hilly property well at all, and was frightening to use anywhere near my ~300ft of culvert out front.
The cut didn't look as nice as it did with a conventional rider due to the paths and cutting pattern I had to adopt.
I know the huge commercial duty ZTRs are a different animal and many more $1000's to buy, but most of todays conventional riders are more versatile and have very tight turning radii.
A nice tight turning radius and foot controlled hydro is a great compromise.
This machine didn't fit my hilly property well at all, and was frightening to use anywhere near my ~300ft of culvert out front.
The cut didn't look as nice as it did with a conventional rider due to the paths and cutting pattern I had to adopt.
I know the huge commercial duty ZTRs are a different animal and many more $1000's to buy, but most of todays conventional riders are more versatile and have very tight turning radii.
A nice tight turning radius and foot controlled hydro is a great compromise.
I bought the smallest ZTR ariens... think it's a 42" last year and have been extremely happy with it. It's a gravely, just a different color with a single lung briggs instead of a 2-lung kohler. Mowing the lawn NEVER got old, and I enjoyed it so much I started mowing the elderly neighbor's lawn next door.
The only issue I have noticed happens if you mistakenly slam the deck into a stump or other hard obstacle if it's dropped low--- the linkage will bind and you have to stomp on the height-pedal pretty hard to dislodge it. even with that happening, there has been no bent metal.
the one-lung briggs has earned my appreciation--- minimal vibration, good on fuel, starts and runs smooth.
nice power. 2 thumbs up.
The only issue I have noticed happens if you mistakenly slam the deck into a stump or other hard obstacle if it's dropped low--- the linkage will bind and you have to stomp on the height-pedal pretty hard to dislodge it. even with that happening, there has been no bent metal.
the one-lung briggs has earned my appreciation--- minimal vibration, good on fuel, starts and runs smooth.
nice power. 2 thumbs up.
Yep, that's the great thing about newer single cyl riders. Very good on fuel compared to a V-twin.
Uneven terrain and wet ground make zero turns a pain. The bigger engine machines make thing go faster if you have the right yard for it.
At my old house it took me 4 hours on a 318 with a 46 inch deck. Witg my brother in laws zero turn 830 john deere witg a 60 inch deck it would take 3 and a half if the yard was dry. I could do it in 3 in I used the 318 and a push mower to go around the obstacles and mow the small areas. The zero turn was great for the big open areas and around trees and stuff. Half of my yard held water and the ditches were to steep and rounded for the ztr to be any good.
John deere makes a good ztr if you go to a dealer and get one of the big ones.
At my old house it took me 4 hours on a 318 with a 46 inch deck. Witg my brother in laws zero turn 830 john deere witg a 60 inch deck it would take 3 and a half if the yard was dry. I could do it in 3 in I used the 318 and a push mower to go around the obstacles and mow the small areas. The zero turn was great for the big open areas and around trees and stuff. Half of my yard held water and the ditches were to steep and rounded for the ztr to be any good.
John deere makes a good ztr if you go to a dealer and get one of the big ones.
How big is your yard? The diesel Kubota ZD mowers are sweet. They are fuel sippers compared to a gas equivalent too. Very reliable and trouble free. They come in a wide range of sizes. It boils down to how much you're willing to spend.
Get a Walker Mower and never look back.
I suppose it's been 4 or 5 years ago now that I bought my first zero turn-a John Deere 757. It's a used commercial ZTrak with a 60 inch deck.
I was using a combination of a John Deere 325 to trim with, and one of my Ford N's with a Woods 60 inch finish mower. It used to take me about 2-1/2 hours to mow and 3-4 total gallons of gas for the 3 or so acres of our property that I finish mow-most of which is fairly hilly and includes a ditch at the road. There are also a number of trees on the property, the garden area, rows of grape vines, along with 2 sheds, my shop and the house to mow around.
With the 757 I can mow the same area in an hour on about a gallon of gas.
My local Deere dealer usually has several used commercial units in stock-they only take the best in on trade and do a pretty complete inspection. I paid just over $3000 for my 757, which is only slightly more than the consumer grade zero turns. So far I've only had to do normal maintenance to the 757. These mowers last well over 3000 hours and mine has just over 1600 hours on it now. It has a lot of life left in it, especially with the hour or two a week that I use it.
After having a commercial grade zero turn, I can't imagine going back to a regular rider. I still get seat time on my N; I have a few acres that I bush hog a couple times a year. But for regular finish mowing work I'll stick with the 757.
Some things I wouldn't be without are the mulch on demand, a minimum 60" deck, the seat suspension option and an engine in the 25-30 HP range.
I was using a combination of a John Deere 325 to trim with, and one of my Ford N's with a Woods 60 inch finish mower. It used to take me about 2-1/2 hours to mow and 3-4 total gallons of gas for the 3 or so acres of our property that I finish mow-most of which is fairly hilly and includes a ditch at the road. There are also a number of trees on the property, the garden area, rows of grape vines, along with 2 sheds, my shop and the house to mow around.
With the 757 I can mow the same area in an hour on about a gallon of gas.
My local Deere dealer usually has several used commercial units in stock-they only take the best in on trade and do a pretty complete inspection. I paid just over $3000 for my 757, which is only slightly more than the consumer grade zero turns. So far I've only had to do normal maintenance to the 757. These mowers last well over 3000 hours and mine has just over 1600 hours on it now. It has a lot of life left in it, especially with the hour or two a week that I use it.
After having a commercial grade zero turn, I can't imagine going back to a regular rider. I still get seat time on my N; I have a few acres that I bush hog a couple times a year. But for regular finish mowing work I'll stick with the 757.
Some things I wouldn't be without are the mulch on demand, a minimum 60" deck, the seat suspension option and an engine in the 25-30 HP range.
Originally Posted By: jhellwig
Uneven terrain and wet ground make zero turns a pain.
That's actually a strength of my Ferris with spring suspension. Far better on uneven ground than the JD tractor was. Haven't really dealt with wet yet, but I could see that being a problem with the smaller-diameter wheels. I still use the JD tractor at my house, but I find myself wishing I had the Ferris from the farm the whole time I'm on it. :-/
Uneven terrain and wet ground make zero turns a pain.
That's actually a strength of my Ferris with spring suspension. Far better on uneven ground than the JD tractor was. Haven't really dealt with wet yet, but I could see that being a problem with the smaller-diameter wheels. I still use the JD tractor at my house, but I find myself wishing I had the Ferris from the farm the whole time I'm on it. :-/
The front wheels on the deere being like they are makes it not conform as good. The deck on the deere is stiffer in how it is suspended and doesn't have the gauge wheels like the lawn tractors have. It had wheels to keep it from digging into the ground but that didn't help much to make it conform to the ground. Mostly it was to big and rigid to fit the dips and contours of my yard.
The wet problem isn't a problem with the front wheels it is the back ones. They are wide turf tires which are no good in any sort of mud to begin with. On a zero turn the wheels are always breaking loose and sliding. With the mud it was even worse. I could even keep the thing from fish tailing in the places with standing water. It just made an absolute mess of my yard.
But my yard was not what most people would ever run into. It didn't drain good. I had one section that has a tile line that ran through it from the field next to it. The line was plugged and water bubbled up in the yard. That kept it well fertilized and it grew like mad in the spring. If I waited a week it was a foot tall. Water was always standing on it. My 318 with bar tires would drive right through it but the zero turn would slip and slide and get stuck all the time.
The wet problem isn't a problem with the front wheels it is the back ones. They are wide turf tires which are no good in any sort of mud to begin with. On a zero turn the wheels are always breaking loose and sliding. With the mud it was even worse. I could even keep the thing from fish tailing in the places with standing water. It just made an absolute mess of my yard.
But my yard was not what most people would ever run into. It didn't drain good. I had one section that has a tile line that ran through it from the field next to it. The line was plugged and water bubbled up in the yard. That kept it well fertilized and it grew like mad in the spring. If I waited a week it was a foot tall. Water was always standing on it. My 318 with bar tires would drive right through it but the zero turn would slip and slide and get stuck all the time.
Thank you all for the feedback. I was hoping to spend about $3000 and was looking into some of the entry-level models. Based on what you have said, it is probably worth spending a little extra money for the step up in quality.
I did some searching and found quite a few on here:
http://www.mowersdirect.com/lawn/zero-turn-lawn-mowers.html
I'm not sure about ordering one online, but it was good to look at some of the reviews others had posted. Based on what I read I'm probably leaning toward an Ariens or Toro.
I did some searching and found quite a few on here:
http://www.mowersdirect.com/lawn/zero-turn-lawn-mowers.html
I'm not sure about ordering one online, but it was good to look at some of the reviews others had posted. Based on what I read I'm probably leaning toward an Ariens or Toro.
I experience wheelspin too if the ground is right or I'm overspeeding. It's all about being smooth. The equipment CAN bark the tires on concrete, so naturally if you ask it to, it can shred grass. I just learned to approach the corners with grace no never overwhelm the traction. It becomes a little bit more challenging if towing, like a large fallen tree or an aerator. Takes some finesse, and more patience.
But it's fun to drive.
The smaller toro is a one-blade IIRC. That reason alone moved me to the ariens, runs 2. The next one up runs 3. Smaller, faster blades seemed a little more durable than one long one, especially if hitting a stump by accident.
I have heard of folks putting ATV tires on ZTRs to avoid ripping out strips of moist lawn. From what I've read, they generally help enough to be worth the compromise, unless you spin those, in which case you just did a number on that section.
But it's fun to drive.
The smaller toro is a one-blade IIRC. That reason alone moved me to the ariens, runs 2. The next one up runs 3. Smaller, faster blades seemed a little more durable than one long one, especially if hitting a stump by accident.
I have heard of folks putting ATV tires on ZTRs to avoid ripping out strips of moist lawn. From what I've read, they generally help enough to be worth the compromise, unless you spin those, in which case you just did a number on that section.
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