Your Choice for Router in 2023

john_pifer said:
OK, I checked the Xfinity Comcast site.

My plan is 400 mbps down and 10 up.

So, yeah, I'd say the router is bottlenecking my speeds pretty badly.
Click to expand...
What modem do you have? When I upgraded from 200mbps to 400 my SB6141 (great modem btw, mine was 8 years old!) couldn’t do the higher speed so I had to buy a new modem.

Kalle.J said:
Really doubt he will get 400 on the other side of the house with 3 walls between no matter what router.
Also mesh nodes are not routers necessarily ;).

Go for TP-link deco mesh if price is the question.
Click to expand...
Don’t get 400, but 280+ upstairs at the highest point is no problem on 5ghz despite my router being on the lower level in a stair well on the floor of my tri level house.
 
Skippy722 said:
What modem do you have? When I upgraded from 200mbps to 400 my SB6141 (great modem btw, mine was 8 years old!) couldn’t do the higher speed so I had to buy a new modem.


Don’t get 400, but 280+ upstairs at the highest point is no problem on 5ghz despite my router being on the lower level in a stair well on the floor of my tri level house.
Click to expand...
My modem is obsolete - it’s only slightly newer than the Linksys WRT54GS.

Im looking at the Arris Surfboard S33 (DOCSIS 3.1 capable).

Open to suggestions though.
 
Skippy722 said:
What modem do you have? When I upgraded from 200mbps to 400 my SB6141 (great modem btw, mine was 8 years old!) couldn’t do the higher speed so I had to buy a new modem.
Click to expand...

Comcast upgraded my speed from whatever it was before (250mbps? don't remember) to 400mbps as part of a nationwide speed increase for that tier. My modem at that time and until a few days ago was an Arris TM822G, which is an 8x4 modem with 2 voice ports. This was maxing out at 280mbps or so.

I found an Arris SBV3202 on Ebay for $38 shipped, which is a 32x8 modem with 2 voice ports.

I used the Xfinity app to activate it, which surprisingly worked like it's supposed to, leaving me with an SBV3202 activated for both voice and data. (I keep a landline around so I can still make calls if my cellphone craps out).

Xfinity's speedtest shows 500mbps (consistent and repeatable, more than what I'm paying for) when connected with ethernet, 330mbps when using 5ghz wi-fi (my two access points are older AC1200 devices).
 
None of the current crop of DOCSIS 3.1 telephony modems are designed for wall-mounting. I guess you have to use this:

1687142881016.png


I'll hold off on buying a DOCSIS 3.1 modem until they are confirmed working with mid-split return.
 
brianl703 said:
I'll hold off on buying a DOCSIS 3.1 modem until they are confirmed working with mid-split return.
Click to expand...
Can you elaborate I've been using a 3.1 for almost a year now.

and why is that a concern if the service provider has validated the modem model as compatible on their network?
 
Rand said:
Can you elaborate I've been using a 3.1 for almost a year now.

and why is that a concern if the service provider has validated the modem model as compatible on their network?
Click to expand...

Comcast is changing their network to increase the return path from where it currently stops at 42MHz to 85MHz. This will enable higher upload speeds--frequencies between 42MHz and 85MHz can be used for uploads.

Current DOCSIS 3.1 modems can theoretically get a firmware upgrade to enable them to use upstream frequencies above 42MHz. The ones Comcast issues in areas where they have implemented midsplit do have firmware to enable mid-split return frequencies.

But no retail modems currently do. Until Comcast has validated that retail modems work for mid-split, I am not going to get one. What's possible in theory doesn't always happen in practice. My luck, I buy the DOCSIS 3.1 modem that gets EOL'd before Comcast approves any retail modems for mid-split.
 
you are going to need both a new modem and router or a combo to realize the speeds you are paying for. you actually might consider renting a gateway from comcast . when you do they wave the 1.2 tb limit .
 
CarLuver said:
you are going to need both a new modem and router or a combo to realize the speeds you are paying for. you actually might consider renting a gateway from comcast . when you do they wave the 1.2 tb limit .
Click to expand...
It’s $25/month to get unlimited data if you rent their modem/router combo unit, or $15/month to rent the modem/router combo unit with the data cap. $30/month for unlimited data if you own your own equipment.
 
john_pifer said:
I’m looking pretty hard at the TP-Link Archer AXE75/AXE5400.

Can anyone help me tell if there’s a difference (other than styling/design) between the AXE5400 which is advertised for $136.96 by Walmart, and the AXE75/AXE5400, which is advertised on Amazon, as well as some other sites, for $179, and obviously has different design/styling?

I haven’t done an in-depth comparison of the advertised specs, but, a quick look, would seem to indicate the same features and hardware.

It is strange, because, the sources that I’m looking at are claiming that the AXE5400 and the AXE75, are the same thing.

So, I am not understanding the price difference of more than $40.

See photos below:
View attachment 162114View attachment 162115
Click to expand...
Get the lower priced one. TPLink has versions of similar yet exact looking routers. This enables them to market exclusively to mass merchandisers their own model numbers. Some units even though look exactly a like have small changes internally that may affect performance.

With that said and besides all the helpful posts in here I think it's all a waste if you only have maybe 25 Mbps service. It's not going to do you much good with such slow speeds no matter what router you get, the only thing that will matter is reliable range.
So if you want that, then read reviews on good range and typically TPlink will fit the bill. It will be more powerful as far as internet speeds of handling on a magnitude many , many times what you internet connection it capable of so its almost a waste but I do get it and you are due for a change anyway.

More or less having the latest wifi protocol wont really be noticeable with only 25 Mbps service but yeah, I think its time for you to update anyway so might as well get it, in case in the future you end up with a internet speed closer to 300 Mbps or more.

I use what some would consider an outdated Motorola MR 2600 router. It's I think 2 WiFI protocols behind now its a AC2600. Still sold, it's a Lenovo product. SO what is my criteria? Range and yeah price. $99 Ive used this router in the center of my 3000 sq ft home for years, never an issue with signal and now in the new smaller than 2000 sq ft home using the same one. Why? it always delivers more than the max WiFi speed I pay for at 300 Mbps and was 200 Mbps that I paid for and the speed always exceeded that.
https://www.motorola.com/us/mr2600/p

With that said, for you I would go with TPLink as long as you do not have to pay for any monthly service. That is BS.
A well made router does one thing right, it has a nice "clean" radio transmitter/receiver that makes best use of the FCC allowed power output for a WiFi transmitter in the home. They all put out the same power which is limited for health safety reasons by the Fed. It's what the units make the best of the power limitation. Im not concerned about hacked routers, there are 100 or more ways I could die today walking out the front door of my home rather than someone wanting to hack my router. Yet nothing wrong with security.
I don believe in Mesh routers UNLESS your have such a large home or not possible to reasonably have the router in the center of the home. I look at Mesh as a band aid IN SOME CASES, for less than stellar transmitters/receivers. By no means all but I do feel a well made router can be just as good if its well placed in your home and your home is not so large making it impossible.

Im not promoting the Motorola just using as an example regarding range, the router was unbeatable at the internet speeds I paid for and getting that speed throughout the house, I think if I was going new, being its now getting a couple protocols behind for fun I would want a more update to date model and haven't looked around for a long time... but now because of these posts maybe I will for fun.
Look into the other models recommended by the posts in here as well. I know you're not concerned about price, Im hoping you dont go too overboard paying for something a 25 Mbps connection cant use. What type of service do you have? DSL? or Cable?

Just ran a speed test, this was done on my wife's M1 Mac mini with the MR2600 WiFi router, doing this test my other Mac mini was also in use and my wife is working from home on her Dell Workstation. We pay for 300 Mbps service and that is what I get using this router, even with three computers running. Im not promoting the router, just giving the idea of a well made router with a good transmitter/receiver is to me anyway, the most important aspect of all things router. Protocol doesnt mean anything at these speeds, nor does features you will not use being you are still happy with your 2007 router.
We pay for 300 Mbps service. ( @john_pifer ) I corrected some typos and added some stuff to this post. You do have me interested Im not an expert I just talk from what to me is practical, if I could find a solid router one day with the same stellar range but only updated with the latest WiFI protocols I might upgrade in a year or two. Just for fun.
Image 6-19-23 at 10.52 AM.jpg
 
Last edited:
alarmguy said:
Get the lower priced one. TPLink has versions of similar yet exact looking routers. This enables them to market exclusively to mass merchandisers their own model numbers. Some units even though look exactly a like have small changes internally that may affect performance.

With that said and besides all the helpful posts in here I think it's all a waste if you only have maybe 25 Mbps service. It's not going to do you much good with such slow speeds no matter what router you get, the only thing that will matter is reliable range.
So if you want that, then read reviews on good range and typically TPlink will fit the bill. It will be more powerful as far as internet speeds of handling on a magnitude many , many times what you internet connection it capable of so its almost a waste but I do get it and you are due for a change anyway.

More or less having the latest wifi protocol wont really be noticeable with only 25 Mbps service but yeah, I think its time for you to update anyway so might as well get it, in case in the future you end up with a internet speed closer to 300 Mbps or more.

I use what some would consider an outdated Motorola MR 2600 router. It's I think 2 WiFI protocols behind now its a AC2600. Still sold, it's a Lenovo product. SO what is my criteria? Range and yeah price. $99 Ive used this router in the center of my 3000 sq ft home for years, never an issue with signal and now in the new smaller than 2000 sq ft home using the same one. Why? it always delivers more than the max WiFi speed I pay for at 300 Mbps and was 200 Mbps that I paid for and the speed always exceeded that.
https://www.motorola.com/us/mr2600/p

With that said, for you I would go with TPLink as long as you do not have to pay for any monthly service. That is BS.
A well made router does one thing right, it has a nice "clean" radio transmitter/receiver that makes best use of the FCC allowed power output for a WiFi transmitter in the home. They all put out the same power which is limited for health safety reasons by the Fed. It's what the units make the best of the power limitation. Im not concerned about hacked routers, there are 100 or more ways I could die today walking out the front door of my home rather than someone wanting to hack my router. Yet nothing wrong with security.
Im not promoting the Motorola just using as an example regarding range, the router was unbeatable at the internet speeds I paid for and getting that speed throughout the house, I think if I was going new, being its now getting a couple protocols behind for fun I would want a more update to date model and haven't looked around for a long time... but now because of these posts maybe I will for fun.
Look into the other models recommended by the posts in here as well. I know you're not concerned about price, Im hoping you dont go too overboard paying for something a 25 Mbps connection cant use. What type of service do you have? DSL? or Cable?

Just ran a speed test, this was done on my wife's M1 Mac mini with the MR2600 WiFi router, doing this test my other Mac mini was also in use and my wife is working from home on her Dell Workstation. We pay for 300 Mbps service and that is what I get using this router, even with three computers running. Im not promoting the router, just giving the idea of a well made router with a good transmitter/receiver is to me anyway, the most important aspect of all things router. Protocol doesnt mean anything at these speeds, nor does features you will not use being you are still happy with your 2007 router.
View attachment 162211
Click to expand...
Thanks.

With the help of you and some of the guys here, I determined that I'm paying for 400 mbps down and 10 up through Comcast/Xfinity.

So, there's no question that my old circa-2010 Motorola Arris Surfboard SB6121 cable modem and the 2007 vintage WRT54GS Linksys router are bottlenecking my performance. Bigly.

I'm about to go to Walmart because I need an oil filter for the wife's 4Runner, so I'll take a look at those TP Link routers while I'm there and report what I find.

I did an online chat with a rep from TP Link this morning, and they said it was an advertising error - that the one Walmart is advertising for the lower price is actually the AX5400 Pro, which doesn't have 6E wifi (yes, I understand the range/signal penetration shortfalls of 6E wifi). But it's strange that the photo on Walmart's site shows the router with "6E" on it. So I'll get to the bottom of it.

Another crappy thing, incidentally, is that Amazon and Best Buy went up from $133.99 to $166.26 on the modem I was looking at (Arris Surfboard S33) overnight.

Anyone have an opinion on the Arris Surfboard S33 vs. Motorola MB8611 modems? Both are DOCSIS 3.1 capable. It seems that the Arris specs look a little better on paper, but I sure prefer the looks of the Motorola MB8611.

It was no contest yesterday when the Arris was over $30 cheaper. But now there's only $13 difference.

The Dell U2723QE monitors are supposed to arrive today or tomorrow. Getting excited!
 
john_pifer said:
We're still soldiering on with the ubiquitous Linksys WRT54GS V7 that I've had since 2007.

It's been OK since we don't have a lot of devices (just mine and my wife's iPhones, 2 laptops (which we don't use much and are never on at the same time), and a Roku. The kids are still very young (2, 1, and 4 mos), so they don't use devices and won't for a long time.

We do often use the Roku for streaming, and our 2 phones simultaneously.

Since we have a new Mac Mini M2 Pro (still waiting on monitors, though), I'm thinking about investing in a new wireless router to take maximum advantage of the speed of the new M2 Pro.

And while I haven't noticed any hiccups in our streaming (we watch a lot of YouTube), I'm quite sure things could be faster.

Additionally, I've read that the security of the WRT54GS is obsolete, to say the least.

I will say that the WRT54GS has been exceptionally, boringly reliable.

Anyway, what do you use?

What should we get?

We have a single-level, 3BR, 2BA home on approximately 1 acre of land.

PC Mag reviewed the TP Link Archer AXE75. Price doesn't seem too bad for the features, and it has the new wifi 6E, which the M2 Pro has. I also may upgrade my iPhone 11 to the latest iPhone at the end of the year when a new iPhone comes out, and I'm sure it'll have the wifi 6E.

Thoug
Click to expand...

mattwithcats said:
Go down to ”Security Measures”

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wireless_security
Click to expand...
Tomsguide has a new for 2023 wifi router comparison test. They tend to do a good job with their testing methods. After two different Netgear routers I opted for a tp link a few years back. It was $40 off at Target. It offered a dual-core processor over Netgears single core processor among other things.
 
john_pifer said:
Thanks.

With the help of you and some of the guys here, I determined that I'm paying for 400 mbps down and 10 up through Comcast/Xfinity.

So, there's no question that my old circa-2010 Motorola Arris Surfboard SB6121 cable modem and the 2007 vintage WRT54GS Linksys router are bottlenecking my performance. Bigly.

I'm about to go to Walmart because I need an oil filter for the wife's 4Runner, so I'll take a look at those TP Link routers while I'm there and report what I find.

I did an online chat with a rep from TP Link this morning, and they said it was an advertising error - that the one Walmart is advertising for the lower price is actually the AX5400 Pro, which doesn't have 6E wifi (yes, I understand the range/signal penetration shortfalls of 6E wifi). But it's strange that the photo on Walmart's site shows the router with "6E" on it. So I'll get to the bottom of it.

Another crappy thing, incidentally, is that Amazon and Best Buy went up from $133.99 to $166.26 on the modem I was looking at (Arris Surfboard S33) overnight.

Anyone have an opinion on the Arris Surfboard S33 vs. Motorola MB8611 modems? Both are DOCSIS 3.1 capable. It seems that the Arris specs look a little better on paper, but I sure prefer the looks of the Motorola MB8611.

It was no contest yesterday when the Arris was over $30 cheaper. But now there's only $13 difference.

The Dell U2723QE monitors are supposed to arrive today or tomorrow. Getting excited!
Click to expand...
Wow 400 Mbps... and you're getting 18ish? Something is wrong but you wont know unless you test further, I would get up close to the router and test the WiFi with my cell phone, make Sure you turn off the cell service and only have wifi on.
If it's still not near 400 you need your internet provider to find the problem, even with an old router it should be better.

Different areas of the country have different rules/laws/ requirements but I think all areas have to supply you with a modem from there you hook up your own router if you dont want to rent theirs. I prefer to have their modem at no cost. They have to service it, they push through updates too.
Keep in mind if you go TPLink or anything you buy from Walmart, Best Buy, Target, you can return if you dont like it.
 
alarmguy said:
Wow 400 Mbps... and you're getting 18ish? Something is wrong but you wont know unless you test further, I would get up close to the router and test the WiFi with my cell phone, make Sure you turn off the cell service and only have wifi on.
If it's still not near 400 you need your internet provider to find the problem, even with an old router it should be better.

Different areas of the country have different rules/laws/ requirements but I think all areas have to supply you with a modem from there you hook up your own router if you dont want to rent theirs. I prefer to have their modem at no cost. They have to service it, they push through updates too.
Keep in mind if you go TPLink or anything you buy from Walmart, Best Buy, Target, you can return if you dont like it.
Click to expand...
Yeah, the router only supports a max of about 25 mbps. It's ancient.
 
mattwithcats said:
At the bottom…

https://irp.fas.org/nsa/best_practices.pdf

There is another one, from 2006, but it is on my other computer…

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Network_cloaking
Click to expand...
As @mk378 posted, that's all hopelessly out of date. What he has stated is accurate, and current.
- Hiding the SSID, so the clients broadcasts that SSID in clear text during solicitation when coming/going does nothing to improve security. And, if you are sniffing, the SSID can be easily gleaned as part of the traffic.
- MAC addresses are also easily sniffed, so MAC filtering does nothing but instil a false sense of security.

For Joe Average Homeowner:
- Buy a quality device that receives regular firmware/security updates (this is why I recommended the Ubiquiti unit)
- Use a complex WiFi password and the highest level of encryption your devices support
- Disable uPnP and other automatic port forwarding services
- Use a DNS filtering service like OpenDNS, Cloudflare...etc or add a Pi-hole to your network

We've been over this before, I think several times at this point? 🤷‍♂️
 
  • Like
Reactions: Y_K
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

Y
Ubiquiti U6 mesh vs U6 extender: which to get with Dream Router
Replies
14
Views
6K
PandaBear
PandaBear
Upgrading from Oculus Go to Meta Quest2, prep work and any recommendation?
Replies
2
Views
806
PandaBear
benjamming
New Laptop Upgrade Options
2
Replies
26
Views
3K
KrisZ
B
Bought a "Trash Can"
Replies
8
Views
3K
bunnspecial
92saturnsl2
Ubiquiti access points on different subnet / separate from 192.168.1.x
Replies
7
Views
2K
OVERKILL
Back
Top Bottom