You think this will be totaled?

Total is the best outcome for most any accident. You get the full retail value for a car you could only hope to sell for private party or trade-in value. Expect a check for around $7,000 and go buy a 2 years newer lower mileage example with that money.
Might be surprised how hard it is to find anything nice (& cheap) right now-might still be better to fix it if a quality frame shop can straighten it, and just keep driving it! Good example is my brother's 254K mile '01 Accord-it isn't that nice, he paid $3K for it, and the nickel & diming is adding on to that #.
 
The valuations these days are a bit more sophisticated than 18 years ago.

One of the valuation companies got sued over their methodology, but i think it was more than 18 years ago though.

There are basically 2 components to valuations nowadays "Equipment" Make/model/options and "Condition". IME one of the "big 3" valuation companies the condition is more subjective and does not allow the appraiser to describe it well, the other is less subjective and allows for specific comments, the conditioning guide is much like a lease turn in inspection. The third one i have not dealt with in a number of years.

Honda doesn't subscribe to OEM option data by VIN so you need to look at that in detail.

Conditioning and dispute anything that doesn't look right.

Once the make model options and condition are correct see if the comparable are actually comparable.
 
Almost the same thing happened to me last month in my 2017 Canyon P/U. An old lady ran a stop sign and hit the drivers front fender and bent the wheel in busting the steering knuckle and bending the upper A arm. Total repair cost is $6,000. I doubt your Honda is worth $6,000. Thankfully my Canyon is worth much more that $6K so it is being repaired.
 
And I realize that USAA is just as slimy as every other insurance company, despite my nearly 40 years of “membership”. They used to be exclusive. They used to offer superior service. They used to support their members. That is no longer true.

They are focused on expansion, and have lowered their membership standards to the point where there is no exclusivity, no extra service, no support. They’re a commodity. They offer a product that is no longer differentiated from any other company.
Agreed.

I shop on price now.
Personal Lines products (outside of Private Client) are a commodity. Most carriers will adjust smaller claims with equal competence but I have found that smaller carriers or MGA's will use 3rd party/independent adjusters due to lack of resources (or not having a nationwide footprint). Independent adjusters can be both good and bad, but for various reasons, I prefer to use a company that adjusts their claims in-house.

You will find greater differences between carriers when you are dealing with a complex liability claim. The larger carriers will have a more specialized claims staff by type of claim, by severity and have relationships with better outside counsel to litigate claims should the need arise. Hopefully you will never need to go thru that situation, but from what I've seen, there are differences in claims handling and some carriers are better than others in this area.
 
Update, my insurance said they inspected/appraised the car and have determined it to be a total loss.

They said since the other guy was at fault the deductible is covered.

The other guys insurance, Gieco, called and said they want/need authorization to take over the claim.

My insurance lady said she is working of the total loss paperwork numbers from Safeco.

It sounds like I can choose to stay with Safeco or switch and have Gieco handle the claim?

At this point I feel like staying with Safeco(who will go after Gieco to pay for the total loss)

If I let Geico take over. Then I no longer have Safeco to deal as my "advocate" for lack of a better word. And I will have to argue with Gieco myself over the value.

For now I will just wait to hear the total loss value.

Staying with Safeco is certainly faster (and less rental costs for insurance) also I saved them a tow$$ since they originally wanted to do from accident scene to my house. And then a separate tow to the COpart yard. I cleaned out my stuff and they only paid for one tow.
This is probably irrelevant to them but in my mind everything adds up.

I need some advice on how to proceed.
Thx bitog fam.
 
If you have been comfortable with Safeco in the past, I would go ahead with them. I always subrogate to my own insurer because I know and understand how they operate. I pretty well know I will get my deductible back at the end of the process. Safeco probably will look out for your interests better than the adversary (GEICO). Since Safeco is apparently waiving your deductible in this case, no reason to change your allegiance.
 
So i got the valuation back from insurance.
Total condition adjustments was +$4 in my favor, lol
got docked for the mileage. 22% higher than 155,000 average
mileage adjust value total came out to 5,908 (I think this the number i need to focus on)
plus 605.57 for 10.25% tax
total $6513

There are 3 comparables next to mine and then listed and then an additional 9 with the furthest being 29 miles from my zip.

Do I just make sure they include all comparables within a 30miles radius?

i don't like that they take off $1069 the list of any comp as they apparently assume they are all in mint condition...?
for example this is comp 3
it is listed at 7,999 not 7,299 as they say https://www.mychoicemotors.com/details/used-2008-honda-accord/89349002
Also in the pictures on their website it has significant damage to the leather seats. both front and back.
In your analysis they take off $1069 to bring it down to normal wear(like my car which was +4) the average for wear? Seems like they shouldn't take any off as this car is clearly not in great condition.

thanks
Screen Shot 2022-11-03 at 8.53.36 PM.png


is it fair to ask that they remove these worn comps from my valuation or at least not remove their $1069 "normal car condition amount off their list prices?
 
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...
is it fair to ask that they remove these worn comps from my valuation or at least not remove their $1069 "normal car condition amount off their list prices?

Yes that precisely what you should do. Look a the 3 comps and make detailed notes about his sort of thing. Call insurance co and have them correct the evaluation.

Also, look at how they rated yours. CCC is the one i think is sort of ambiguous. It is probably rated private party average or dealer retail, make sure it fits into the category it is rated in, i can help via PM if you want.


This one is a little out of date, ask your TL rep to provide you the current one.
 
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we spoke at length, they adjusted the valuation of my car by approx $300 more.

each category listed here has three options

Major wear (reduction in value), normal wear (no change to value), and dealer ready (net increase in value)
Screen Shot 2022-11-04 at 5.14.17 PM.png


Every comp shown starts at a list price
+/- trim adjustment, EXL V6 gives a $68 dollar value increase over my EXL 4cyl
minus a mileage adjustment if it has less miles than mine (an objective math formula)
**minus a $1069 condition adjustment to bring these 14yr old cars down to "normal wear"??

the $1069 under every comp is the total of every valuation category tallied as DEALER READY (since they are being sold by a Dealer :ROFLMAO: ) even if the car is not in reality "dealer ready" in those areas.

My biggest concern is that there are comps which in pictures have significant damage, either to seats, or paint, etc. yet they all still receive the $1069 reduction off list "dealer ready" price

also how is it that every single comp gets "Dealer ready" engine and transmission valuations? based on WHAT? They just had a new engine or trans installed? ok sure but no comp here is advertising that it has a new engine and trans.

my car had *zero* leaks, works great, certainly no used car dealer was going to do anything to it if they were going to flip it.

I'm going to talk to the people who do the comps on monday(someone else other than the adjuster) but doubtful they will make any changes.
I personally think visibly damaged comps should be removed from valuation against my car or have the -$1069 condition modifier removed.

also a few of the comps come up at different prices online vs what insurance reports for list price. for example one comp they said is listed at 10,999 but is 11,777 on dealer website. Ironically every discrepancy on price is in their favor (they priced lower than what dealer website has listed) i think they should adjust these.

sorry for the rant
 
I feel for you

I went through this with the Milan, they make valuations so convoluted and complicated, then stack on some double talk

And I'm pretty good at getting to the heart of a matter, a spin job if I've ever seen one
 
Hmmm...

So they are using Avg/above/below in IL... I would look the evaluation over really well and make sure they have used IL profile.

There should be a published guide like the one in my link to "pda central" above. Your best bet is to fight them with their own guide. It should not be a secret.

The carpet trim and paint look off to me based on the comments. (sounds pretty normal.) - but again id have to see their guide.

The Engine and trans also could be off (if clean and leak free plus you have maintenance records i would argue those, they will problem make a big difference)

Tires are typically rated based on tread depth. if they are on a 3 tier system i would measure them, determine what starting dept is and ask for dealer retail if more than 2/3 remained, Normal if 1/3-2/3 and major wear if below 1/3. Go by the worst tire on each axle.
 
Oh, and where's the car, do you know if the actually looked at it or did you or someone else just send them pictures?
 
They have adjusted the carpets to dealer ready.
I have maintenance records for the engine and trans fluid changes every 30k miles.
They said that's normal maintenance and I said it's dealer ready maintenance.

I will push to have engine and trans listed as dealer ready. The right rear quarter panel did have 2 decent scratches so I think their major wear in that category is somewhat acceptable.

But My issue at the moment is not really with the condition valuation of my car.

Rather I don't understand how they get to subtract $1069 of the comps price for "condition" to reduce it from dealer ready to "normal wear"

If a used car dealer has 2 comps with similar mileage yet 2 significantly different prices. What's the difference between them??....the condition. They shouldn't get to reduce comp price twice for condition.

So either they need to remove all the non mint comps from my evaluation or only partially reduce comps value if they show obvious signs of wear.
 
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Are you dealing with Safeco or Geico?

I would agree routine fluid changes are normal maintenance. If you just performed a major service, I would say that would push you into the dealer ready category.

You should be able to take the check they give you and hand it to a dealer and drive out in a similar vehicle with no money out of pocket. That's making you whole.
 
Are you dealing with Safeco or Geico?

I would agree routine fluid changes are normal maintenance. If you just performed a major service, I would say that would push you into the dealer ready category.

You should be able to take the check they give you and hand it to a dealer and drive out in a similar vehicle with no money out of pocket. That's making you whole.
Safeco, my insurance.
So what is a Major service? valve adjustment and spark plugs were done at normal interval, not due again yet.

On trans there is no filter to change.
So how does a comp get qualified as dealer ready trans/engine?
 
Update, haggled with the comps people, separate than the claim adjuster
They would not remove the $1069 "condition adjustment" from each car

but got 3 low value(rough condition) comps completely removed from my valuation report, so it increased my value by $500.

They said my transmission had a leak per "inspection report".
I've never seen a leak so I asked if they took a picture in the report? No.
But they took a picture of bumper scratches...🤔🤷
Seems fishy.
I asked if the leak was from the seal where left driver CV axle enters. Car was hit on driver wheel so very possible cv axle shifted backwards and is allowing for a leak.
Still waiting for them to provide a picture.
 
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