Yahoo article - when your car hits 100k

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She gets off on the right foot and then takes a huge dump immediately:

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In choosing oil, Fix advises buying full synthetics. They "actually will lube the engine better. It's designed for longer life. There are less emissions, so it's greener. There's slightly better fuel economy and better performance," she says. "There are no negatives except it costs a little more."

Whichever oil you choose, Schappell says, be consistent over time. That way you won't mix synthetics and blends, which can cause problems.


Reporters don't know jack. They don't know jack about cars, they don't know jack about business, they don't know jack about who they want to rule your life. Please just ignore the press and learn the world yourself!!!
 
Originally Posted By: Pablo

Reporters don't know jack. They don't know jack about cars, they don't know jack about business, they don't know jack about who they want to rule your life. Please just ignore the press and learn the world yourself!!!


+1
 
Maybe in the Duvall Times but in national papers you can find some interesting thoughts. Just think, on websites like this no conclusions or proof and quotes from oil co web sites as being the truth. Never an conclusive test to prove anything.How many times do you read the same threads on the same subject over and over again with the same repeated ideas backed by nothing conclusive. I think you have to know which reporters are to be taken as a real insight and which have a agenda like an oil salesman etc.
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Originally Posted By: Pablo
She gets off on the right foot and then takes a huge dump immediately:

Quote:

In choosing oil, Fix advises buying full synthetics. They "actually will lube the engine better. It's designed for longer life. There are less emissions, so it's greener. There's slightly better fuel economy and better performance," she says. "There are no negatives except it costs a little more."

Whichever oil you choose, Schappell says, be consistent over time. That way you won't mix synthetics and blends, which can cause problems.


Reporters don't know jack. They don't know jack about cars, they don't know jack about business, they don't know jack about who they want to rule your life. Please just ignore the press and learn the world yourself!!!
 
So, how do I begin my letter to Ms. Fix? How does one indicate the huge facepalm her writing caused in text alone?
 
Meh.

Personal experience only: I find that most cars tend to need a lot of repairs and "catch-up maintenance" by the time they reach 75k. Normal wear-items, such as ball joints, tie rod ends and motor mount issues tend to pop up between 75-100k. Oil leaks are common too, from my limited experience.

So for me, 100k is a lot of miles even for today's vehicles.
 
Even if you run plain old dino, changing at the manufacturer's recommended NON-SEVERE OCI-the VAST majority of engines will make 100K easily-in my experience it's all the other things breaking that makes 100K plus problematic!
 
One car's 100k is not equal to another car's 100k. 100k achieved in 4-5 years on mostly highway commutes is really nothing on today's cars, however if that same 100k is achieved over 10-15 years of short city trips and heavy stop&go traffic, then I say it is a lot and the car is probably at the end of its life cycle.
 
Originally Posted By: The Critic
Meh.

Personal experience only: I find that most cars tend to need a lot of repairs and "catch-up maintenance" by the time they reach 75k. Normal wear-items, such as ball joints, tie rod ends and motor mount issues tend to pop up between 75-100k. Oil leaks are common too, from my limited experience.

So for me, 100k is a lot of miles even for today's vehicles.


Sounds like you need to buy better cars...What you said might have been true in the 60's but not now...All my Panthers needed nothing but regular maintenance till around 300K miles since the 80's...My friend has a 03 F-150 and so far has has needed nothing but regular maintenance at 230K miles.
 
The Panther platform is quite possibly the most fleeted piece of automotive engineering in North America in the past 20+ yrs. Your experience is not much of a surprise.
 
I didn't do anything when my truck turned 100K miles. I didn't need to. The fluids were good, the brakes were good, the tires were good, etc. because I take care of it. Just under 1000 miles after rolling the odometer, my truck decided to celebrate its accomplishment with a CEL...one of the O2 sensors was done. I got direct replacement Bosch sensors (same as OEM) on Amazon for $143 shipped for all three. 101K miles out of O2 sensors is acceptable to me, no big deal.

Right now my truck is sitting at 102K miles and it runs like it did when it had 15 on it. No kidding. It starts right up, runs smooth, and has no problems to speak of. The HVAC fan drowns out the engine noise at idle, and it will still lay a strip of rubber down the street. 100K miles is nothing with the right vehicle and right maintenance.
 
Originally Posted By: KrisZ
One car's 100k is not equal to another car's 100k. 100k achieved in 4-5 years on mostly highway commutes is really nothing on today's cars, however if that same 100k is achieved over 10-15 years of short city trips and heavy stop&go traffic, then I say it is a lot and the car is probably at the end of its life cycle.


That's how this car spent the first 10 years of its life. 96,000 km on it when I bought it (60k miles) in May. I have put over 10,000 km it since and have debugging the little kinks that her little old lady type usage (all short trips, no highway, no speed, stop and go) and some hit and miss maintenance have led to. Nothing more expensive, since I officially took ownership (it was inspected pre-sale and needed minor work we cost split), than a $12 PCV valve replacement I did myself. But lots of elbow grease minor jobs involved, like throttle body & maf cleaning, some minor ongoing body work, etc.

Its been enough to turn back the clock a bit, and where it sees some highway and WOT now and then (once warmed up), I expect its 2nd 60k miles to be good ones (and done in less than 5 years rather than 10). I have future project cars in mind I will buy down the road as fix & flips or for seasonal usage, but I won't part with this one. Very solid, dependable, and economical sedan that is also nice to work on.

-Spyder
 
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My Subaru just got a major $1500 dollar 100K service:

1) New timing belt
2) power steering/brake flush
3) tranny/rear diff fluid service
4) 4 new tires
5) New spark plugs, found bad valve cover gaskets in the process.
6) 4 wheel alignment
7) machine front rotors
8) New plug wires
9) V belts replaced

I should be good to go for awhile, hopefully.
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My car got 2 new front O2 sensors for it's 100k mile birthday. Didn't need them but I figured it couldn't hurt. Got new tires and a PCV valve too.

I do tranny and rear end oil every 40k and plugs/belts every 60k so 120k will be a big one - probably do the coolant too. It's coming up pretty quickly. At last calculation I had run over 5,000 gallons of gas through it, should probably do the fuel filter too.

Oh yeah, I should mention the brake rotors and fluid flush about every 20k.

Our roads are pretty good so suspension parts don't wear out for a long, long time.

In my last 500k miles (three vehicles) I have only ever needed one alignment.
 
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I have 3 cars; all built on or before 2000; all have > 150K miles on them. Only combined unscheduled maintainance:-

1) Rear wheel bearings on Odyssey 99 (both sides went within 5 years of each other :-)
2) I destroyed transmission on Odyssey by putting it in the reverse on highway :-(
3) Rear calipers on Maxima 2000 (both sides within 2 years of each other)
4) Pre-cat on Maxima, covered under 8/80 warranty
5) MAF on the Maxima
6) 2 Coils on the Maxima
7) $20 welding muffler bracket on Maxima
8) Transmission shift cable on Camry 99
9) Air/Fuel sensor on Camry 99
10) Tie-rod end on Odyssey
11) 1 coil on Odyssey

This is with 3 vehicles and over 450K combined miles.

Obviously, tires, fluids, filters and plugs are NOT listed above. I have also not listed scheduled timing belt on Odyssey at 150K miles. I did not count the occurrences of P0420 and eventual application of the sensor extension fix. All 3 needed that :-(

There is really no reason for a typical and reliable car to need anything out of ordinary at 100K miles.
 
My ol' Buick just rolled 100K mi last week.

I have kept up on oil, coolant, PS fluid, tranny flushes, tires, replaced worn-out brakes, plugs, wires, O2 sensors, belts, etc.

Other than above maintenence, I have done...a replacement of a broken plastic coolant fitting!

Wondering if ball joints are in my future, though.
 
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~130,000 miles on the Expedition.

It has needed:

-Upper ball-joint (passenger side)
-Tie-rod end (driver side)
-Two coils (#7,#8)

And obvious maintenance items like brakes, plugs and a set of tires. Oil, tranny, diff and t-case fluid changes, as well as coolant have been done in the last 12 months.

Both lower ball joints were done before we got it, since they are greaseable.
 
Despite the "truths" or not. It sets up the reader to think a car can last past 100k miles. And sets them up to actually maintain their vehicle.

It could be shortened a bit. Who cares besides people like here about type of engine oil.
 
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