WSS-M2C946-B1 vs Euro 5w40

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May 25, 2003
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713
Location
Quebec Canada
Thats the spec from ford that they wanted me to follow for my 3.5 eco

im long past the warranty so Im considering QS euro 5w40 api SN or SP following many advice about moving to that grade to help minimizing fuel dilution and helping the valve train components

no where its mentioned that spec on the QS bottle , some here mentioned that I should look for LSPI approved for what that mean ? also is it ok with my turbo ?

Im moving from PP5w30 to QS euro 5w40 , why QS ? availability and price in Canada

man my life was so simple before coming here lol OLM. PP 5w30 and fl500s ....thats it ...

and came on the dreaded phaser noise that happened only once since and looking for answer in order to give me the best chance to make it back home from Texas to mtl ...
 
As long as the euro bottle has some lspi rating on it even if it's just an api sp rating it's not an issue. Don't wanna put a high saps oil into a turbo gdi and possibly risk that though it's rare. But high saps euro oils are becoming rare as m1 0w-40 is lower saps now and gdi friendly compared to the old formulation. QS 5w-40 would be a good oil for it.
 
how can I find, see, or find the HTHS for this QS oil ?
and Min pumping temps ? will be used all year long ....
 
how can I find, see, or find the HTHS for this QS oil ?
and Min pumping temps ? will be used all year long ....
QS doesn't post that exact figure. The certifications demand a minimum of 3.5 but 5w-40's are usually 3.7, 0w40's around 3.6. The 5w-30 ford asks for is usually 3.1 instead so already an increase. As for cold flow it'll be fine. People run 40 grade euros down to -35c without issue. If cold flow is more of an issue I'd probably take Castrol 0w-40.
 
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QS doesn't post that exact figure. The certifications demand a minimum of 3.5 but 5w-40's are usually 3.7, 0w40's around 3.6. The 5w-30 ford asks for is usually 3.1 instead so already an increase. As for cold flow it'll be fine. People run 40 grade euros down to -35c without issue. If cold flow is more of an issue I'd probably take Castrol 0w-40.
thanks and Hey I can see your in Texas ... i know its a big state but I am in Texas now in near McAllen , just drop by for a cold one if you can :)
 
Here's the Shell sheet with the info.
Any of the approvals listed require an HTHS of 3.5 or greater. SAE 40 oils are higher, though often only a few tenths higher.
It has MB Approval 229.3 and 229.5, approval, which requires a minimum 3.5.
The other specs listed aren't clear if they're approved or recommended by Shell, but the MB approval covers it.
Pour point is -39C, which is -38 F.

QS Euro 5W-40 PDS

Edit: @Baveux beat me to the "Go" button. :)
 
I don't care about LSPI fear/scare. My oil change intervals and fuel used are exceptional, as is my oil level, along with my above and beyond preventive maintenance.

At this point, could care less about Ford's spec, their oils, their filters, or their recommended intervals, all when combined, wear out the phazers repeatedly.

Below picture shows what ALL 40 grades have for HTHS. I could care less about the brand.
A 0w40 or 5w40 has a minimum requirement of 3.5, means they're all good.
A 0w40 or 5w40 are typically 'full synthetic' oil. There are very few available as 'blends' which are pretty much nil at walmart and autopart stores, which means you're getting a pretty well blended full synthetic oil. And, all meet 'some' current or previous specification.

BMW, ACEA, VW... spec's are pretty tough. The oil is full synthetic. Its HTHS is >3.499 as a SAE grade requirement. There seems to be a typo with CCS/MRV temps but datasheets aren't always perfect so nothing to worry about.

If has availability at a 'good' price for your budget, then use the Euro QS 5w40 without worry. Now if I can only convince you to use a full synthetic media filter in place of the Motorcrapht.


Engine-Oil-Viscosity-Classification-J300-.jpg


The 0w30, 0w40, and 5w40 listed in the link below are supposedly blended with your currency and in your country. Maybe call around and see if you can get jugs at a reasonable price. Might be cheaper. Nothing wrong with pouring the local economy into your engine. If not, stick with QS.

 
Thats the spec from ford that they wanted me to follow for my 3.5 eco

im long past the warranty so Im considering QS euro 5w40 api SN or SP following many advice about moving to that grade to help minimizing fuel dilution and helping the valve train components
No oil is going to minimize fuel dilution, the idea with going heavier is to give you a higher starting point so that ending viscosity isn't as low. Do you know how much fuel dilution you are experiencing?
no where its mentioned that spec on the QS bottle , some here mentioned that I should look for LSPI approved for what that mean ? also is it ok with my turbo ?
LSPI testing is, as noted, covered under API SP, however, this engine long pre-dates that. LSPI is more of an issue with small displacement TGDI engines tuned for economy, which is one of the reasons why the Euro marques (Audi for example) didn't have LSPI issues on full-SAPS oils. Also, ZDDP mitigates LSPI, so the higher levels in the full-SAPS oils did counter the higher levels of calcium (which is an LSPI instigator).
Im moving from PP5w30 to QS euro 5w40 , why QS ? availability and price in Canada

man my life was so simple before coming here lol OLM. PP 5w30 and fl500s ....thats it ...

and came on the dreaded phaser noise that happened only once since and looking for answer in order to give me the best chance to make it back home from Texas to mtl ...
The move only makes sense if you are experiencing significant visc loss IMHO. If you aren't, then the headroom you are buying yourself is probably not needed. That said, these engines are known for dilution and the subsequent visc loss, so I assume you are in fact experiencing this.
 
Quaker State euro is an SP rated oil , the SP rating covers LSPI, it is good to go . I have been for 2 years been running the Quaker State Euro oil in my 2015 F150 with the 2.7 and have on occasion run it very hard
 
No oil is going to minimize fuel dilution, the idea with going heavier is to give you a higher starting point so that ending viscosity isn't as low. Do you know how much fuel dilution you are experiencing?

LSPI testing is, as noted, covered under API SP, however, this engine long pre-dates that. LSPI is more of an issue with small displacement TGDI engines tuned for economy, which is one of the reasons why the Euro marques (Audi for example) didn't have LSPI issues on full-SAPS oils. Also, ZDDP mitigates LSPI, so the higher levels in the full-SAPS oils did counter the higher levels of calcium (which is an LSPI instigator).

The move only makes sense if you are experiencing significant visc loss IMHO. If you aren't, then the headroom you are buying yourself is probably not needed. That said, these engines are known for dilution and the subsequent visc loss, so I assume you are in fact experiencing this.
I do not have a lot of data , only 1 oil analysis from wearcheck in canada, the truck was fairly new at the time with a long interval because I was sold on OLM system ... The UOA returned oil serviceable ok, this is why I was following it with what I tought was a great oil PP 5w30 for his whole life . I used during the 8 years of ownership mainly FL500S , and fram ultra and TG , During my last oil change I had one Ultra with bad thread, I could not screw it full ... so I installed my last Fram in stock .... I decided to return to the FL500s , a member here suggest a WIX XP but the consensus doesn't seem to exist, specially in regards of being made in China lower quality made by MH and or low filtration data ... anyway consensus are hard to find on Bitog lol.

The first event of cold start up noise similar to what is reported on many board regarding cam phasers timing issue with the 3.5 eco from the first gen that happen last week lead me to changing the oil visc and interval for the future . So here I am, the cam phaser noise slap isn't happening too often and I am trying to build time to have it fixed back home in canada ... I will start it from now on by holding the gas pedal to prelube it a bit and hopefully its going to be enough to buy 5000km and 3 months ... thanks to all of you guys for sharing your knowledge and your patience with this old french Canadian writing in Frenchglish .... :)

Here is the UOA .... I had 15k kilometer on the oil and filter, 50/50 highway city not much for you to work with
1673893158729.jpeg
 
I do not have a lot of data , only 1 oil analysis from wearcheck in canada, the truck was fairly new at the time with a long interval because I was sold on OLM system ... The UOA returned oil serviceable ok, this is why I was following it with what I tought was a great oil PP 5w30 for his whole life . I used during the 8 years of ownership mainly FL500S , and fram ultra and TG , During my last oil change I had one Ultra with bad thread, I could not screw it full ... so I installed my last Fram in stock .... I decided to return to the FL500s , a member here suggest a WIX XP but the consensus doesn't seem to exist, specially in regards of being made in China lower quality made by MH and or low filtration data ... anyway consensus are hard to find on Bitog lol.

The first event of cold start up noise similar to what is reported on many board regarding cam phasers timing issue with the 3.5 eco from the first gen that happen last week lead me to changing the oil visc and interval for the future . So here I am, the cam phaser noise slap isn't happening too often and I am trying to build time to have it fixed back home in canada ... I will start it from now on by holding the gas pedal to prelube it a bit and hopefully its going to be enough to buy 5000km and 3 months ... thanks to all of you guys for sharing your knowledge and your patience with this old french Canadian writing in Frenchglish .... :)

Here is the UOA .... I had 15k kilometer on the oil and filter, 50/50 highway city not much for you to work with
View attachment 135855
I'm also in Canada (Ontario) :)

Do you know if Wear Check uses GC for fuel or if it's just inferred from Flashpoint like Blackstone? They don't appear to specify GC on your report and the figure is vague (
Oxidation seems quite high on that report, I'm surprised it wasn't flagged.

Might make sense to get another UOA done. I'd personally recommend OAI/Polaris. The lab is in Edmonton, you can buy the kits direct from Polaris or through the AMSOIL website (under the OAI label).
 
I'm also in Canada (Ontario) :)

Do you know if Wear Check uses GC for fuel or if it's just inferred from Flashpoint like Blackstone? They don't appear to specify GC on your report and the figure is vague (
Oxidation seems quite high on that report, I'm surprised it wasn't flagged.

Might make sense to get another UOA done. I'd personally recommend OAI/Polaris. The lab is in Edmonton, you can buy the kits direct from Polaris or through the AMSOIL website (under the OAI label).
Oh I just see you are from Canada.... so you must be an awesome guy lol I lived for 10 years in Barrie Ontario then we move back to God's country Quebec lol

Just because of that I will follow your post closely from now ... lol

I cant help you with anything else than what I show you here .... sorry

So in a few word am I making a good move by moving from PP5W30 to QS Euro 5w40 and FL500S ? if you do not want to start a war just PM me . The euro cost a lot more close to 45.00 more than PP for 5liters but if I can justify it i dont care
Thanks for your time !!
 
Now if I can only convince you to use a full synthetic media filter in place of the Motorcrapht.

Hummmm ...... lol .... My wife would say that I am a stubborn SOB.... the Motocrapht are already ordered and on their way from WM , however i can always returned them .... I read so much about filter that I am completely lost , Wix a was great name , many here do not think so anymore weak filtration reported even on XP made in China a country that i do not trust at all :) , Purolator... many find problem with them, Fram was a can of doom , not any more but for how long .... motorcraft were great , especially the FL500S not anymore and this filter is so common .... most of the filter seem to be made by what 3/4 company , dressing them differently .... so who the f... should I believe ... :) Greasymechtech, John Doe, My guts ? .... , So far Greasy is playing hard in my mind lol ....
 
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