so i bought this stuff and man it works good my headlights were pretty bad looking they now look almost like new. pretty darn impressed anyone who has ugly fogged lenses give it a shot for 20 bucks you wont regret it. i have absolutely 0 complaints.
wow 3m headlight restore
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Originally Posted By: chevyboy14
so i bought this stuff and man it works good my headlights were pretty bad looking they now look almost like new. pretty darn impressed anyone who has ugly fogged lenses give it a shot for 20 bucks you wont regret it. i have absolutely 0 complaints.
You should do a how-to write up or video hehe, we need some of that here
, im glad it work out for you, post some pic
so i bought this stuff and man it works good my headlights were pretty bad looking they now look almost like new. pretty darn impressed anyone who has ugly fogged lenses give it a shot for 20 bucks you wont regret it. i have absolutely 0 complaints.
You should do a how-to write up or video hehe, we need some of that here
, im glad it work out for you, post some pic
Originally Posted By: MetalSlug
You should do a how-to write up or video hehe, we need some of that here,
The instructions that come with the product are pretty detailed already.
You should do a how-to write up or video hehe, we need some of that here
,The instructions that come with the product are pretty detailed already.
Originally Posted By: Quattro Pete
Originally Posted By: MetalSlug
You should do a how-to write up or video hehe, we need some of that here,
The instructions that come with the product are pretty detailed already.
but I want his real life result experiment with the product, and Dont beleive what you saw on the box
. What the result you saw on the box is not exactly the result you will get when using
Originally Posted By: MetalSlug
You should do a how-to write up or video hehe, we need some of that here
,The instructions that come with the product are pretty detailed already.
but I want his real life result experiment with the product, and Dont beleive what you saw on the box
OK. I posted my results in the Detailing section not long ago.
Originally Posted By: Quattro Pete
OK. I posted my results in the Detailing section not long ago.
hi 5 good job
.
OK. I posted my results in the Detailing section not long ago.
hi 5 good job
Originally Posted By: MetalSlug
Originally Posted By: Quattro Pete
OK. I posted my results in the Detailing section not long ago.
hi 5 good job
.
Yeah was good reading
Originally Posted By: Quattro Pete
OK. I posted my results in the Detailing section not long ago.
hi 5 good job
Yeah was good reading
Originally Posted By: MetalSlug
Originally Posted By: chevyboy14
so i bought this stuff and man it works good my headlights were pretty bad looking they now look almost like new. pretty darn impressed anyone who has ugly fogged lenses give it a shot for 20 bucks you wont regret it. i have absolutely 0 complaints.
You should do a how-to write up or video hehe, we need some of that here, im glad it work out for you, post some pic
The kits are a group of existing products repackaged and marketed for this purpose. You don't need the kit to get them.
Originally Posted By: chevyboy14
so i bought this stuff and man it works good my headlights were pretty bad looking they now look almost like new. pretty darn impressed anyone who has ugly fogged lenses give it a shot for 20 bucks you wont regret it. i have absolutely 0 complaints.
You should do a how-to write up or video hehe, we need some of that here
, im glad it work out for you, post some pic
The kits are a group of existing products repackaged and marketed for this purpose. You don't need the kit to get them.
You can just use sandpaper or any polish depending on how bad they are to start off with.I did mine the other day i have a 3 inch air buffer but you can buy a backing made for a drill.
I saw my mechanic use toothpaste on customer car
I have a hard time using abrasives at all. A headlight lens is made of acrylic or Polycarbonate. Polycarbonate and acrylic is susceptible to UV and oxidation damage. To protect against that they are usually covered with a UV oxidation resistant coating. Sanding the top layer would remove that, making it degrade faster in the future. I suppose that may not matter because its a mess anyways, but I still try to use an off shelf anti-oxidant cleaner and a less abrasive buffing compound first to see what happens.
yes, and dint these lense having a coat of protection, after sanding it off nnd cleaning its good idea to spray a clear coat over it ?
Originally Posted By: MetalSlug
I saw my mechanic use toothpaste on customer car
The toothpaste trick came from the days of the glass lens. If he took care to prevent scratching the lens using an orbital I suppose its still ok.
I saw my mechanic use toothpaste on customer car
The toothpaste trick came from the days of the glass lens. If he took care to prevent scratching the lens using an orbital I suppose its still ok.
Originally Posted By: LeakySeals
Originally Posted By: MetalSlug
I saw my mechanic use toothpaste on customer car
The toothpaste trick came from the days of the glass lens. If he took care to prevent scratching the lens using an orbital I suppose its still ok.
mabe he is old school
Originally Posted By: MetalSlug
I saw my mechanic use toothpaste on customer car
The toothpaste trick came from the days of the glass lens. If he took care to prevent scratching the lens using an orbital I suppose its still ok.
mabe he is old school
Originally Posted By: MetalSlug
yes, and dint these lense having a coat of protection, after sanding it off nnd cleaning its good idea to spray a clear coat over it ?
I have done that. The clear can resolve fine scratches and imperfections that impact light refraction. But it does not necessarily provide UV protection so the problem can resurface, this time under a coat of clear. The kits contain a polish that needs to be reapplied, maybe thats a better idea.
yes, and dint these lense having a coat of protection, after sanding it off nnd cleaning its good idea to spray a clear coat over it ?
I have done that. The clear can resolve fine scratches and imperfections that impact light refraction. But it does not necessarily provide UV protection so the problem can resurface, this time under a coat of clear. The kits contain a polish that needs to be reapplied, maybe thats a better idea.
Originally Posted By: LeakySeals
I have a hard time using abrasives at all. A headlight lens is made of acrylic or Polycarbonate. Polycarbonate and acrylic is susceptible to UV and oxidation damage. To protect against that they are usually covered with a UV oxidation resistant coating. Sanding the top layer would remove that, making it degrade faster in the future. I suppose that may not matter because its a mess anyways, but I still try to use an off shelf anti-oxidant cleaner and a less abrasive buffing compound first to see what happens.
It's that UV coating that deteriorates and caused most of the problem, should be outlawed... Most park lamp lenses do not have such coatings and hold up far longer than headlamps...
Above said, if you use a good paste wax three or for times a year, the UV coating will generally not deteriorate and get hazy...
I have a hard time using abrasives at all. A headlight lens is made of acrylic or Polycarbonate. Polycarbonate and acrylic is susceptible to UV and oxidation damage. To protect against that they are usually covered with a UV oxidation resistant coating. Sanding the top layer would remove that, making it degrade faster in the future. I suppose that may not matter because its a mess anyways, but I still try to use an off shelf anti-oxidant cleaner and a less abrasive buffing compound first to see what happens.
It's that UV coating that deteriorates and caused most of the problem, should be outlawed... Most park lamp lenses do not have such coatings and hold up far longer than headlamps...
Above said, if you use a good paste wax three or for times a year, the UV coating will generally not deteriorate and get hazy...
I don't think 3m or any of the lens restoration kits is suggesting that sanding is the right thing to do. I think its more of a last resort before replacement. In that case, orbital sanding is key, not wet sand paper on a block that will leave scratches that impact refraction.
Over all it still better then those that sell on tv, put on wipe off " type. I fall for that once
never again. But use buffer help alot.
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