Would this worry you?

[uart]

Originally Posted By: maybehabitformin
well that makes a huge difference but thats still very heavy oil.
Yes, which is probably why he's just changed down to a 5W50 about now, as we're just coming out of summer down here. So cooler weather is on the way, though not likely freezing weather.

OP has a 17 year old European car with slightly low oil pressure. The 10W60 isn't going to hurt it in an Australian summer. I'd get that pressure checked out against an accurate gauge though, particularly down at the low end those gauges aren't always that accurate.

 

[ag_ghost]

Originally Posted By: maybehabitformin
It would worry me more to run 10w60 and start it at 30 degrees.If this is what you have been doing it doesnt suprise me you have so low of pressure now.Me myself I would have never fired it unless I had a ignition cut off switch and spun the motor over to prime it in 30 degree weather.Not with 10w60 anyway.

Where did the OP say 30 degrees? I read 34C as in centrigrade which is about 92 F...

 

[TFB1]

Originally Posted By: Shannow
How much extra flow is generated by the decreased viscosity ?

ballpark...


Could be less flow due to oil pump internal clearances...

 

[Brit33]

Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
Originally Posted By: KrisZ
I would stick with whatever keeps the minimum oil pressure at operating temperature. If you car has trouble keeping minimum oil pressure just by going one grade down that means the bearing clearances are on the loose side.

All this "don't worry everything is right" talk is a bunch of baloney in my opinion. There is a reason oil pressure, NOT flow is specked by manufacturers.
Also, how do we know the flow increased? Did it occur to the “don’t worry be happy” crowd that maybe the oil pump is worn out? There are too many unknowns here to say just don't worry about it. Staying with minimum operational parameters as stated by manufacturer is the safest bet here.


This ^

If you need a 60-weight to keep an acceptable minimum oil pressure, there is a problem!


Not always.

I use 10w60 TWS Castrol in my alfa boxer. (happily)

Alfa specify a 10w50 oil and min. hot idle of 15 psi!
I get 8-10 psi. many others do also with the same engine.
(new mechanical OP gauge)

I have just totally rebuilt my engine, all bearings within factory limits (used plastigauge on every bearing), oil pump re-conditioned and still only get 8-10 psi hot idle and max 60psi at high revs with this oil.

If I dropped to a normal 15w50 (HTHS 4.5 or so like Mobil) then I would see a further drop in pressure I'm sure.

Maybe the 15w50 300v might keep its pressure (HTHS 5.33) but has a low VI.

 

[OVERKILL]

Originally Posted By: Brit33
Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
Originally Posted By: KrisZ
I would stick with whatever keeps the minimum oil pressure at operating temperature. If you car has trouble keeping minimum oil pressure just by going one grade down that means the bearing clearances are on the loose side.

All this "don't worry everything is right" talk is a bunch of baloney in my opinion. There is a reason oil pressure, NOT flow is specked by manufacturers.
Also, how do we know the flow increased? Did it occur to the “don’t worry be happy” crowd that maybe the oil pump is worn out? There are too many unknowns here to say just don't worry about it. Staying with minimum operational parameters as stated by manufacturer is the safest bet here.


This ^

If you need a 60-weight to keep an acceptable minimum oil pressure, there is a problem!


Not always.

I use 10w60 TWS Castrol in my alfa boxer. (happily)

Alfa specify a 10w50 oil and min. hot idle of 15 psi!
I get 8-10 psi. many others do also with the same engine.
(new mechanical OP gauge)

I have just totally rebuilt my engine, all bearings within factory limits (used plastigauge on every bearing), oil pump re-conditioned and still only get 8-10 psi hot idle and max 60psi at high revs with this oil.

If I dropped to a normal 15w50 (HTHS 4.5 or so like Mobil) then I would see a further drop in pressure I'm sure.

Maybe the 15w50 300v might keep its pressure (HTHS 5.33) but has a low VI.



That would scare me.

 

[Brit33]

Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
Originally Posted By: Brit33
Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
Originally Posted By: KrisZ
I would stick with whatever keeps the minimum oil pressure at operating temperature. If you car has trouble keeping minimum oil pressure just by going one grade down that means the bearing clearances are on the loose side.

All this "don't worry everything is right" talk is a bunch of baloney in my opinion. There is a reason oil pressure, NOT flow is specked by manufacturers.
Also, how do we know the flow increased? Did it occur to the “don’t worry be happy” crowd that maybe the oil pump is worn out? There are too many unknowns here to say just don't worry about it. Staying with minimum operational parameters as stated by manufacturer is the safest bet here.


This ^

If you need a 60-weight to keep an acceptable minimum oil pressure, there is a problem!


Not always.

I use 10w60 TWS Castrol in my alfa boxer. (happily)

Alfa specify a 10w50 oil and min. hot idle of 15 psi!
I get 8-10 psi. many others do also with the same engine.
(new mechanical OP gauge)

I have just totally rebuilt my engine, all bearings within factory limits (used plastigauge on every bearing), oil pump re-conditioned and still only get 8-10 psi hot idle and max 60psi at high revs with this oil.

If I dropped to a normal 15w50 (HTHS 4.5 or so like Mobil) then I would see a further drop in pressure I'm sure.

Maybe the 15w50 300v might keep its pressure (HTHS 5.33) but has a low VI.



That would scare me.


Lol

Did for me at first but seems to be an old alfa characteristic.
Low pressure warning light never comes on (only when I do an oil change and it takes a split second to fill the filter).

once you blip the throttle it shoots up to 40 psi with ease.

 

[maybehabitformin]

From what I have read using 10w anything is a thing of the past its the old way of thinking right? I mean if your vehicle sees track use or something maybe but if 90% of the wear is on start up why would you use 10w ???

 

[Brit33]

Originally Posted By: maybehabitformin
From what I have read using 10w anything is a thing of the past its the old way of thinking right? I mean if your vehicle sees track use or something maybe but if 90% of the wear is on start up why would you use 10w ???


What would you suggest?

It's the viscosity at 100c I'm interested in and the VI for good start ups.

I live in a mild-hot climate so 10w60 serves just fine.
The oil is probably at about 40c at start up in summer anyway.(in winter never below 10c in the garage)
The Winter grade doesn't make much difference in my case.

TWS has a VI of about 174 I believe which is great and HTHS of 5.3.

 

[il_signore97]

Originally Posted By: maybehabitformin
From what I have read using 10w anything is a thing of the past its the old way of thinking right? I mean if your vehicle sees track use or something maybe but if 90% of the wear is on start up why would you use 10w ???



Yes, a lot of wear is encountered at every start up where the engine is cold. However, it should be stated that a lot of that start up wear is CORROSIVE WEAR, which oil viscosity has nothing to do with. It doesn't matter if your car is using a 0W20 or a 10W60 oil. Neither will help with wear that is caused by acid formation and subsequent corrosion in a cold cylinder. As always, this assumes that you are using a reasonable oil viscosity that allows for both good cranking capability and adequate flow for the ambient temperatures in your area... For example... No 10W60 when it's -40 outside

 

[uart]

Originally Posted By: Brit33
Originally Posted By: maybehabitformin
From what I have read using 10w anything is a thing of the past its the old way of thinking right? I mean if your vehicle sees track use or something maybe but if 90% of the wear is on start up why would you use 10w ???


What would you suggest?

It's the viscosity at 100c I'm interested in and the VI for good start ups.

I live in a mild-hot climate so 10w60 serves just fine.
The oil is probably at about 40c at start up in summer anyway.(in winter never below 10c in the garage)
The Winter grade doesn't make much difference in my case.

TWS has a VI of about 174 I believe which is great and HTHS of 5.3.

LOL Brit. You better keep on the look out for some 0W60. Yes you really need a 0W oil for those -25 degree temperatures you've been getting down there in Uruguay. :;

 

[Brit33]

Originally Posted By: uart
Originally Posted By: Brit33
Originally Posted By: maybehabitformin
From what I have read using 10w anything is a thing of the past its the old way of thinking right? I mean if your vehicle sees track use or something maybe but if 90% of the wear is on start up why would you use 10w ???


What would you suggest?

It's the viscosity at 100c I'm interested in and the VI for good start ups.

I live in a mild-hot climate so 10w60 serves just fine.
The oil is probably at about 40c at start up in summer anyway.(in winter never below 10c in the garage)
The Winter grade doesn't make much difference in my case.

TWS has a VI of about 174 I believe which is great and HTHS of 5.3.

LOL Brit. You better keep on the look out for some 0W60. Yes you really need a 0W oil for those -25 degree temperatures you've been getting down there in Uruguay. :;


For sure LOL
Freezing down here in winter. We're snowed in!

As Caterham pointed out to me, it's the VI I should be concerned about for start ups as we do not have freezing temps.
10w60 TWS has a nice high VI so easy start ups and lubrication
15w50 300v actually has a lower VI so would be harder on a cold start up.

 

[uart]

Originally Posted By: Brit33
As Caterham pointed out to me, it's the VI I should be concerned about for start ups as we do not have freezing temps.
10w60 TWS has a nice high VI so easy start ups and lubrication
15w50 300v actually has a lower VI so would be harder on a cold start up.


This relates to the OP as well, as he most likely won't be operating in freezing temperatures either. Given that the issue he's having is low oil pressure at hot idle, he might be better off with a lower VI oil if it sheared less. I know it depends on the specific oil, but often the larger the xWxx range of the oil then the more it shears. I know a 15W50 has a lower VI, but if it sheared less that the it might be preferable to the 5W50 that the OP is currently using.

 

[05foresterXT]

It wouldn't necessarily worry me, but it would tell me to stick with a 10w60 in all but the coldest months. 5w50 is probably fine for short trips, cold weather, and light duty use.

 

[Brit33]

Originally Posted By: uart
Originally Posted By: Brit33
As Caterham pointed out to me, it's the VI I should be concerned about for start ups as we do not have freezing temps.
10w60 TWS has a nice high VI so easy start ups and lubrication
15w50 300v actually has a lower VI so would be harder on a cold start up.


This relates to the OP as well, as he most likely won't be operating in freezing temperatures either. Given that the issue he's having is low oil pressure at hot idle, he might be better off with a lower VI oil if it sheared less. I know it depends on the specific oil, but often the larger the xWxx range of the oil then the more it shears. I know a 15W50 has a lower VI, but if it sheared less that the it might be preferable to the 5W50 that the OP is currently using.


Thanks mate.

Yep thinking about using up some of my stored 300v 15w50. (just going to waste)
Will buy 2 litres of 300v 20w60 and do a 50/50 mix.

Will be a good mix I believe with a better VI and keeping the OP higher at idle due to the qualities of the 20w60.
Shearless oil they say! We'll see.