Wintery cold damages oil

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I don't understand not changing the oil untill March 9 months "Cold weather" but the dealer will change it now ? Syn oil benefits are longer oil change intervals, better cold temperature performance and stands up to higher oil operating temps. Seems you are not taking advantages of the oil you are paying extra for. Why run syn oil?
 
Pablo wrote, "I don't understand the thread title."

Well, I really don't know a lot about oils (I'm just a lowly novice) but I finished reading Dr. Haas's excellent "Motor Oils 101" article, and learned so much from it. I must thank Dr. Haas for sharing his wisdom with the group.

Several passages from the article:

"Motor oil becomes permanently thicker with exposure to northerly winter type weather. This is more of a problem to mineral based oils. Waxes form. This is why it is a bad idea to even store a bottle of oil in a cold garage. It goes bad on the garage self just because it is exposed to the cold."
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"I have seen several car owner manuals that are now stating that oils do not need to be changed but every 7,500 miles or more. The same manual also states OR every 12 months, whichever occurs first. My feeling is that you can probably go 5,000 miles on the average (in a sports car) but you must change your oil in the spring time at a minimum, particularly up north. Oils form waxes in icy cold weather. There is a permanent thickening of the oil."

"Some automotive manufacturers are backing down on oil change intervals to 5,000 miles or less and some advocate changing the oil at least every 6 months as well. I think this is because of the tendency for oils to thicken in very hot engines (not ambient conditions, just hot engines). Also because of thickening from the cold of winter and from sludge build up that cannot be filtered out."
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And finally: "Change your oil every 3 - 5,000 miles and at least every spring."
[END of Quotations from Article.]
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That's why I will now change my oil at the end of each winter.

By the way, Pablo, I'm really impressed with your AMSOIL synthetics and will probably get some after my trials with Mobil 1 and Pennzoil Platinum are over. Thanks for representing AMSOIL so well on the board.
 
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Wow - thanks for the detailed explanation. I suppose that could happen with a very poorly formulated oil from the days past, but it's not really a concern now. Even with a conventional oil, permanent physical state changes are not an issue, even at extreme cold temps.
 
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Hey, I wonder if there could be a microwave type device fitted to the oil sump so you could give it a 5 minute shot of microwaves to bring the oil up to reasonable temps before startup. Have to have plastic composite oil pan I guess. Far fetched, but fun to contemplate.


I've always wondered why water heaters aren't designed this way.
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You could have highly efficient "just-in-time" heating of the water traveling in the pipes to your faucet. It seems this would save energy over conventional water heaters that keep a large barrel of water hot 24/7.
 
There is quite an emerging market for instant on water heaters. They are catching on. They have a very small tank (like 1 gallon), and a massive heating system...several times bigger than a standard water heater. Just google "tankless water heater" and you will find lots of stuff out there, and yes they are very efficient.
 
Well, last night I bought a 5-quart jug of Pennzoil Platinum, so I guess I will change the oil even though the current oil is only 4 months old and has 2,600 miles on it.

Anyway, I want to compare driving with Platinum to driving with the Mobil 1 that's in there right now.

The '06 Camry LE 4-cylinder only has 10,000 miles on the odometer. Would a used oil analysis of the Mobil 1 5w30 be useful? I guess I could compare it to a Platinum used oil analysis taken 6 or 12 months from now, if it might be helpful. Would any useful information come from used oil analysis of such a new, low-mileage engine?

I know I'm changing the oil very early, but I won't be changing it again for 5 months until March, after the winter.
 
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By the way, would a 0w30 synthetic work just as well as the 5w30 recommended by the '06 Camry's manual?

It seems many are favoring the 0w30 over the 5w30. I understand both oils basically have the same viscosity of roughly 10 cS at engine operating temperature of 212F/100C, but the 0w30 won't be as thick at cold startup, meaning less engine wear. Apparently, 90 percent of engine wear happens at cold startup.
 
Just for my own note-keeping, here's another passage from the article that suggests changing the oil after winter:

"Evaluation of Oil Performance Using the Tu High Temperature Engine Test With a View to Extending Oil Drain Intervals, Bouvier et al:
Oxidation and thickening is the limiting factor for oil longevity. Generally modern oils thin only 10 percent then thicken up to 60 percent within as little as 96 hrs. of operation ( -in the accelerated test engine. Let me comment that all test criteria are designed to mimic real engine operating conditions but at an accelerated rate).
There is accelerated acidification and corrosive wear that occurs.
Oil thickening was also time dependent. Thickening at 30,000 km was 2 times more when done over 21 months than over a 10 month period. (Change your oil every spring as I suggested before)."
 
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