Winterization...to drain or not to drain?

[tbm5690]

What is the consensus as far as draining carbs for extended storage? I have done it both ways for the last 10 years, and I've never had any issues regardless of whether or not I've shut off the fuel and drained the carbs. I always store the bike with a full tank of stabilized E0 fuel, and I ensure that the treated fuel has made its way through the carbs as I add stabilizer the tank prior to my last fill-up as well. I store my bike for 6 months in a heated garage at 50F.

I'm leaning toward not draining the carbs and just shutting off the petcock at the tank since it takes way less cranking in the Spring compared to when I drain the carbs. Any issues that I am not foreseeing with this method considering I am doing my due diligence with fuel prep?

 

[RocketRod69]

What is the consensus as far as draining carbs for extended storage? I have done it both ways for the last 10 years, and I've never had any issues regardless of whether or not I've shut off the fuel and drained the carbs. I always store the bike with a full tank of stabilized E0 fuel, and I ensure that the treated fuel has made its way through the carbs as I add stabilizer the tank prior to my last fill-up as well. I store my bike for 6 months in a heated garage at 50F.

I'm leaning toward not draining the carbs and just shutting off the petcock at the tank since it takes way less cranking in the Spring compared to when I drain the carbs. Any issues that I am not foreseeing with this method considering I am doing my due diligence with fuel prep?

Draining the carbs is never a bad idea..but there are several products that you can use so that you don't have to. Sounds like you are already using a stabilizer. I have a 1984 V-65 Magna that I use either Sta-Bil ethanol treatment OR Amsoil Quickshot treatment in. My garage isn't heated full time but I do work out there a lot in the winter so it's usually 60+. I've never had any issues when using these products. In fact..15 years ago when the ethanol fuels became the only thing we could get here in Washington State my bike had an issue with acceleration just off-idle. Taking off from a stop sign/light. My Honda-trained bike mechanic explained that the ethanol is an oxygen-carrying component so I was now too lean. He re-jetted the carbs. When inside he said they looked excellent with zero corrosion. I had already been using (mostly Quickshot) by that time.

 

[Wrenchturner44]

How about not draining and opening the garage door and starting them at least once per month?

 

[tbm5690]

How about not draining and opening the garage door and starting them at least once per month?

I don't see how that would necessarily be a benefit as the fuel being consumed from the tank is the same age so the fact that it's treated and ethanol-free I'm thinking it sitting in the carb bowls vs sitting in the tank = nothing gained. Practically speaking, I cover mine and tuck it away on a dolly so it would be a bit of a process to start it periodically.

 

[02SE]

How about not draining and opening the garage door and starting them at least once per month?

Unless you get on it and ride long enough to get the oil up to operating temperature, and maintain it for a bit to evaporate any moisture in the oil, it will likely do more harm than good. Just idling it for a few minutes won't necessarily prevent deposits in the entire carburetor either. I would drain the fuel. Or treat it with stabilizer. Or ride long enough and often enough to get the engine and oil up to full operating temp and maintain it for a bit, and make sure fresh gas makes it through the carb(s), as you'll refuel with fresh gas.

Our streetbikes are all fuel injected. They get stabilizer, and sit up on stands with Battery Minders connected to each one. They sit and wait until winters icy grip relents, and the roads are washed clean of Salt.

I do take the 2-stroke KTM 550 MXC out and do wheelies in the snow occasionally. It gets stabilizer, and I'll clean the carb if needed. Although I find that pre-mix seems to be a bit less susceptible to going bad, than straight gas.

 

[Tundragod]

Long story short, I made a mistake storing (well had it sit outside in MN winter and summer) for 2 years in 2003-05 without stabilizer or drained. The carbs jelled and clogged. I had a house and garage after that, so it sits in the garage, stabilized from Oct. - Jun. without any problem for 28 yrs now. Actually, 26 years without a problem.

 

[KrisZ]

I don't see how that would necessarily be a benefit as the fuel being consumed from the tank is the same age so the fact that it's treated and ethanol-free I'm thinking it sitting in the carb bowls vs sitting in the tank = nothing gained. Practically speaking, I cover mine and tuck it away on a dolly so it would be a bit of a process to start it periodically.

The fuel in the bowls evaporates though. The fuel stabilizers add heavier compounds so it evaporates less, but it will still evaporate and leave the heavier components behind. That’s what gumms up the carbs. It’s not the fuel in the tank. The gas in the tank has a lot less evaporation and stays fresh longer.

By running the engine once a month, you ensure the bowls are filled up with fresher fuel and the mix is burned off. Personally I would drain the carbs. This is by far the safest method.

Plus you just never know what kind of quality fuel you’re getting. There is a big grocery store in Texas called HEB that has their own gas stations. I got fuel from them that had water in it. The bike wasn’t stored so it wasn’t a big deal. But if that gas was used for storage, the carbs would likely need to be cleaned after.

 

[oil pan 4]

I say change the oil, preferably hot.
Filler up with fresh oil, drain the gas tank, start it, run it till it stalls and drain the carb too.
And don't forget to do whatever you do to the battery.

 

[eljefino]

The carb bowls are vented somehow... don't know if you have a little charcoal canister on there. But the "good" gas will evaporate. The regulated temp will be good for reducing condensation.

I'd honestly leave them full and run it monthly, even though it's "bad" for the oil and exhaust. Assuming you have confidence in your needle & seat to not dump that gas into your motor. If your carbs have drains you could drain a few ounces through and get fresh gas from the tank to replace it if you don't want to run it. This would also exercise the floats.

 

[Ride_Red]

I would drain the carbs. You never know how long it will be "winterized". Something could come up and you skip a year of riding.
Gas in the tank is relatively sealed and stabilizer should be fine for that.

 

[SOUNDMAN5000]

Many people suggest drain the carb but I never have.
I replaced my 1997 Harley Carb with a S&S about 25-26 years ago.
So the last years I only run E0 and I always keep the gas tank to the rim full with the red Sta-bil and a mix of Marvel Mystery oil ( the marvel is great for rubber o-rings and such, I have done this every season and only recently have I thought I need to give the carb some TLC ( starts are getting harder but it runs too good to mess with it). I have never even removed the bowl to clean in 26 years! I Keep my gas tank full with my mix and has made the inside of my metal tank still look new! I did go 2 years one time without starting the bike, I did drain the gas tank then but was no need.
MMO and Sta-Bil, mixed, Works great!

 

[Ride_Red]

I use the blue marine Stabil and also a shot of two cycle oil to winterize my bikes and small engines. 1 ounce of 2 cycle oil per 5 gallons of gas. I use TCW-3 marine oil. It has anti-corrosion additives in it. So, when the carbs are run dry, any left over fuel in the bowl evaporates and leaves a protective oil coating in the carbs.

 

[Pete in PA]

I like this post. 1 year I drained, spring I turned it on and got a leak at the fuel tube O rings. This year I'm running 2 oz. of MMO in each 5 gal. fill up already. Might add some stabil and try wet this winter. Maybe 1 start after 2 months just to run new into the bowls.

 

[tbm5690]

The fuel in the bowls evaporates though. The fuel stabilizers add heavier compounds so it evaporates less, but it will still evaporate and leave the heavier components behind. That’s what gumms up the carbs. It’s not the fuel in the tank. The gas in the tank has a lot less evaporation and stays fresh longer.

By running the engine once a month, you ensure the bowls are filled up with fresher fuel and the mix is burned off. Personally I would drain the carbs. This is by far the safest method.

Plus you just never know what kind of quality fuel you’re getting. There is a big grocery store in Texas called HEB that has their own gas stations. I got fuel from them that had water in it. The bike wasn’t stored so it wasn’t a big deal. But if that gas was used for storage, the carbs would likely need to be cleaned after.

Makes sense, this is the kind of info I was hoping to get to sway me to drain. Sounds like I'll run them dry like I have in the past. Gas quality is good for me, I can get fresh Top Tier E0 87 octane which is what I feed the bike exclusively.

 

[Bonz]

How about not draining and opening the garage door and starting them at least once per month?

If you're not gonna ride the bike and get it up to operating temperature, don't bother starting it and idling just to put fuel in the bowls. That condensation will sit in your crank case and also puddle in the low spot of the exhaust and corrode from the inside out.

As has been said, if you truly won't ride it for months on end, drain the carbs, get the tank topped off with fuel and add stabilizer. It's not hard to prime the carbs if a good day comes along if a guy really wants to do the best for the bike. Then drain again.

As has been said also, carb vents allow evaporation and stabilizer will not keep that from happening, albeit it would evaporate at a slightly slower rate possibly depending on the stabilizer used.

 

[repairman54]

'01 Road King, bought new. I never have drained the carb, E0 gas on the last tank or two and marine stabilizer. Same on all my OPE, sleds and boats. Only time carb was ever off it or apart was to put a DynoJet kit in it when new to remedy the lean EPA jetting cough.
I only start it if I'm going to ride it at least 10 miles to get everything up to temperature, idling is not enough and just creates more moisture.

 

[BigCahuna]

I don't let my bike sit for long periods of time during the winter. And I always hit it with a dose of fuel injector cleaner and a splash of Marvel mystery oil, when I ride it the most. And I do the same in winter months. But I also run a tank or two thru it every month to keep the gas fresh. Having a gas tank full of treated gas does nothing useful for your carb or fuel injectors just sitting in there for months. It needs to be run thru them, to keep them clean. Plus running your bike every few weeks will help burn off any moisture that forms in the engine, and keeps oil on the internal parts.,,

 

[Bonz]

'01 Road King, bought new. I never have drained the carb, E0 gas on the last tank or two and marine stabilizer. Same on all my OPE, sleds and boats. Only time carb was ever off it or apart was to put a DynoJet kit in it when new to remedy the lean EPA jetting cough.
I only start it if I'm going to ride it at least 10 miles to get everything up to temperature, idling is not enough and just creates more moisture.

Help me out here, I thought the road king got fuel injection back in 1996?

 

[repairman54]

My '01 had the option, carb or FI. Can't remember when they dropped the carb option in later years.
I chose carb over Italian injection and dealer reliance at the time for DIY simplicity.

 

[dvblanch]

Think the carbs were available up to 06