Winter Waxing

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Jason, I have to agree with 4DSC. Non-protected paint gets ruined faster than you think.

I had a firechief who had a new-ish Chevy S-10 Blazer. It was bright red and looked great, especially with the red light bar. It also helped that he washed it all the time ... once or even twice each week.

One day while he was washing his truck in the station parking lot, I saw the water sheeting over it. Not a water drop to be seen anywhere.

I forcefully ran my finger across the hood. The movement produced a nearly ear-piercing squeal. I don't think he EVER waxed the thing. I ribbed him about it and he said he new it was overdue for a wax job.

I moved across town and saw him just 3-4 years later, still driving that same truck. The paint was all dried out and faded. The once spiffy lookin' lil' chief-mobile looked like a salvage yard escapee.
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What a shame. If he had washed it half as much and waxed it at least once each year, the paint might still look like new.
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My '95 Honda Civic, on the other hand, was waxed at least 3-4 times each year and despite being almost 8 years old and having 132,000 miles on it when I sold it, looked like new ... except where it was stone-chipped across the front from all the highway miles. Never spent one day inside a garage during that time but the hood, roof, trunk lid, doors and rear quarters looked fabulous.
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--- Bror Jace
 
Waxing prevents oxidation of the paint which would otherwise lead to the symptoms described...peeling, chipping, loss of color (or complete loss of paint), fading, etc..

Believe it or not, I wash and wax the car all winter as usual (in the garage). I'm not worried about under the car that much as the salt spray will contaminate it the minute you drive off anyways, but I do wash the wheel wells well and make sure to rustproof.
 
I avoid car washes because of the harsh treatment and recycled brine that's used. For the past 30 years I've been washing my cars in the winter by hand with the garden hose. I keep the hose indoors so it's always thawed out. As long as the water doesn't freeze on the car you can wash it. I use a pair of rubber gloves. Hands don't get as cold as some people think, as long as they stay dry.

I get some funny stares from people while washing my car on the driveway between snow banks. But the way I look at it, winter is when the car needs cleaning the most, when it's covered with salt.

I mostly wash in the evening after I get home from work. Since the doors can freeze shut overnight, I usually leave the doors ajar for 10-20 minutes after washing to let most of the water run off. Othrewise, they water will wick in where the rubber seal meets the metal and freeze shut.

Veedubb, depending on how long you hold on to your cars, you may want to consider rustproofing your vehicles here in the rust belt.
 
Another tip along with what Kestas was saying about water and winter, I also go over all my rubber weatherstripping with a tire/vinyl/rubber dressing. My favorite is "Black Magic" which is a thick, silicone-based dressing.

Leaves them a little greasy if you apply the stuff liberally but at least that makes it harder for water to seep in and freeze.
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--- Bror Jace
 
Do any of you find that some waxes don't "adhere" to the paint surface when the mercury dips down low? Sometimes when I try to apply wax(Meguire's yellow carnuba liquid) to a cold paint surface, the wax seems to just smear over the paint instead of coming to a solid "haze". If I leave the car in a heated garage for a few hours the wax goes on smoothly.
 
quote:

Originally posted by SL8Brick:
Do any of you find that some waxes don't "adhere" to the paint surface when the mercury dips down low? Sometimes when I try to apply wax(Meguire's yellow carnuba liquid) to a cold paint surface, the wax seems to just smear over the paint instead of coming to a solid "haze". If I leave the car in a heated garage for a few hours the wax goes on smoothly.

The problem is the surface temp is so low the solvents in the wax cannot evaporate. So the product just smears until evaporation can take place.

Waxes have oils in them too and low temps sometimes prevents them from doing their job, making the paint look glossy. Warming the wax to room temp will help.
 
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Originally posted by 4DSC:

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Originally posted by BadBatsuMaru:
Any wax will stain. Regular wax just happens to wash away on its own eventually. This certainly isn't a good argument against using NuFinish, though. What would you suggest using as a sealant/protector? Polyurethane that holds up all year seems to be a pretty good thing to me.

A good wax or sealant will not stain trim unless the trim is rough and cracked with age. Some very long lasting products will not stain trim (even if you try) but will outlive Nu Finish by a large margin. I've never known why this cheap and dirty wax seems to have so many fans that think it's so long lasting... From my own testing, some other tests, and comments on other forums, the durability of Nu Finish isn't anything special, the consensus being about average. It's not exceptionally easier to apply or buff either, so the only advantage I can see for it is availability and cost (sometimes). A bottle (or tin) of wax lasts so long anyway that I'd pick one of the Mothers or Meguiar's (especially from their Pro line) products instead of Nu Finish. If you want really long lasting protection you'll have to look a bit harder yet...

I don't know what's exactly in Nu Finish, but it's probably not polyurethane... actually I'm pretty sure I've never heard of a wax or sealant that contains that. Since Nu Finish is a really old product (and assuming they haven't changed their formula much) it's probably one of the older silicone oils or petroleum derrived artificial waxes, much like some of the other really old formulas like Liquid Glass and Blue Coral. That's just some speculation on Nu Finish though.

Anyway, I'd just like to note that some "carnauba" waxes have really great durability, while some "synthetic" or "polymer" products have turned out to be quite disappointing because of all the different ingredients available and ways they can be blended. Don't be afraid to experiment a little and ask around some detailing sites about different products. However, if you're completely happy with what you're using and don't have any issues with it, then by all means stick with it.

Sorry for the late reply.


I haven't found anything that outlasts NuFinish but I'd like to. What have you tried that holds up longer with typical washings between waxing??
 
I think the abuse a painted automotive surface faces in the Northeast is very different from the Southwest.

Northeast: Temperature swings, salt and sand abrasion, water & UV ray damage.

Southwest: Intense UV assault, Sand abrasion.

--- Bror Jace
 
quote:

Originally posted by Bror Jace:
I think the abuse a painted automotive surface faces in the Northeast is very different from the Southwest.

Northeast: Temperature swings, salt and sand abrasion, water & UV ray damage.

Southwest: Intense UV assault, Sand abrasion.

--- Bror Jace


Here in the midwest we try to maximize the number of things that are harmful to your car's finish.
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I'd really like to find something that looks good and lasts...
 
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