One Problem with rust is one does not know how bad it really is, until one starts removing the loose flakes and probing.
It can look horrible and not be so bad, or not look so bad but be completely rotten under what paint still exists.
The pics shown so far givle little idea if the rust in question is one or the other or some combo.
Get various wire wheels for your4.5 inch angle grinder. I like slowing the grinders down a bit with a router speed controller( amazingly useful tool) especially in delicate areas. scrub what remains with Ospho on a green or red scotch brite pad. One can lather rinse repeat until all that is left is bare pitted steel, just let the rust turn black ( do not allow overnight moisture to condense on it) then hit it again with the wire wheel or a chisel.
I've stainless steel wire brushes for the dremel, also very useful. Don't skimp on the eye or lung protection.
Epoxy resin bonds incredibly well to properly prepped steel. Key words being properly prepped. this means thoroughly degreased and lots of mechanical tooth, sharp scratches in the prepped etched metal. Epoxy also seals much better than regular paint, but epoxy is not UV resistant and must be painted over when it will see direct sunlight.
Don't compare it to 'fiberglass resin' which is polyester resin, in terms of bond strength. Epoxy can also expand and contract with temperature better than polyester resins.
I've plenty of steel that rusted out and now has epoxy saturated fiberglass replacing it, but I have good fiberglass skills. and always have resin and fiberglass on hand.
Anyway try prepping the rust yourself then seeing if a window guy will bother with the installation
Offer to write up and sign a waver releasing them of liability. and have it witnessed if they are really concerned.
It can look horrible and not be so bad, or not look so bad but be completely rotten under what paint still exists.
The pics shown so far givle little idea if the rust in question is one or the other or some combo.
Get various wire wheels for your4.5 inch angle grinder. I like slowing the grinders down a bit with a router speed controller( amazingly useful tool) especially in delicate areas. scrub what remains with Ospho on a green or red scotch brite pad. One can lather rinse repeat until all that is left is bare pitted steel, just let the rust turn black ( do not allow overnight moisture to condense on it) then hit it again with the wire wheel or a chisel.
I've stainless steel wire brushes for the dremel, also very useful. Don't skimp on the eye or lung protection.
Epoxy resin bonds incredibly well to properly prepped steel. Key words being properly prepped. this means thoroughly degreased and lots of mechanical tooth, sharp scratches in the prepped etched metal. Epoxy also seals much better than regular paint, but epoxy is not UV resistant and must be painted over when it will see direct sunlight.
Don't compare it to 'fiberglass resin' which is polyester resin, in terms of bond strength. Epoxy can also expand and contract with temperature better than polyester resins.
I've plenty of steel that rusted out and now has epoxy saturated fiberglass replacing it, but I have good fiberglass skills. and always have resin and fiberglass on hand.
Anyway try prepping the rust yourself then seeing if a window guy will bother with the installation
Offer to write up and sign a waver releasing them of liability. and have it witnessed if they are really concerned.