Window regulators

Joined
Jan 23, 2022
Messages
128
Window regulators seem to be one of those parts where you have 2 choices: OEM from the dealer for $300, or an array of random no-name options for $40-80.

On my previous van I replaced the window regulator with aftermarket units 5 times. I would like to avoid that this time. Is there any brand that people have luck with or has a warranty? Or is OEM really the only good option?
 
We have used Dorman, SKP, and such that Rockauto sells and they all seem to install fine and last atleast as long as the original and for less money. I hate to use anything electrical made by Dorman but the last couple window regs we did seem to be ok still.
 
Replaced driver's window motor in an '03 F150 Lariat recently with Dorman b/c OEM is no longer available for about $60. First one failed within a week. Warrantied through Advance Auto Parts without issue. Second one was installed and is still working a month or so later now. At least they're easy to replace in that pickup. It appears to have been the original.

The good thing about this is that the motor can be replaced separately from the regulator so that was nice.

I replaced the driver's regulator/motor assembly in my '02 Accord last month with OEM since it was still available. Yeah, $250 but had to replace the assembly. It was $135 when I replaced it Aug-2012. So, got 12 years out of it.
 
Did the regulator in my Xterra years ago. No idea on brand - whatever AAP had at the time. Its lasted longer than the OEM one.

Hit or miss I am sure. I wouldn't pay $300 for OEM unless it was several hours work. Even then, probably not - its a motor, a cable and a frame?
 
On my previous van I replaced the window regulator with aftermarket units 5 times. I would like to avoid that this time. Is OEM really the only good option?
I guess it depends how many times do you want to do it, if the answer is once, then get a genuine Ford part.
 
I don't like Dorman electrical parts but I did use a Dorman window motor/regulator assembly in my 98 Chevy K3500 truck back in about 2008 or 2009 and it still works to this day. It's in the driver's side door too which sees the most use.
 
I wish I could find a rear window regulator for the Legend. I have 2-3 used ones, but the plastic cable guides are broken. Until I figure out a way to make them work again, this is the alternative to keeping the window shut.

suction cup.webp
 
I wish I could find a rear window regulator for the Legend. I have 2-3 used ones, but the plastic cable guides are broken. Until I figure out a way to make them work again, this is the alternative to keeping the window shut.

Couldn't you get a functional used one from eBay? Looking at the listings, I don't see any plastic cable guides in the design, so maybe these are not compatible?

eBay Listing for Legend Window Regulator
 
I also put a Dorman in the wife's '08 F150 driver door. I needed it immediately and it wasn't too expensive on my commercial account.

I rarely recommend Dorman but these seem well-reviewed and it's been working for a few months -- which I realize means nothing.

In this case I'll definitely be using the LT warranty if it dies
 
Couldn't you get a functional used one from eBay? Looking at the listings, I don't see any plastic cable guides in the design, so maybe these are not compatible?

eBay Listing for Legend Window Regulator
That listing is for a sedan. I have a coupe. Some coupe body parts are difficult, if not impossible to find. The coupe regulators look like (1) and (3):

1728324455297.webp

Besides the cable guides, the cable drive wheels (in the motor housing) tend to separate from each other; they're bonded back-to-back with a rubber cushion between them. I've bonded them back together, but it's proven to be an unreliable fix. With very little use the window will eventually fall into the body.

I have thought of a few fixes for the guides and the drive wheels but I haven't been able to investigate further.
 
I've used whatever brand NAPA sells and they've been good. I have one on my 2012 Silverado right now. Make sure there's not a track binding or something else that's wearing out your cables and motors.
 
When we had a 2000 Cadillac Deville the OEM was just as terrible as the aftermarket. Just a terrible GM design. All brands needed to be modified to work for any length of time.
 
The old scissor mounts where the motor bolted on separately were pretty durable.

Heck on the OBS Fords you could just swap the single gear at the motor spindle and that would fix it 98% of the time. There was also an old school trick to drop BBs into the gear area to allow engagement.
 
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