Window regulator binding up.

[Scott S]

I have a 2013 Ford Edge window regulator is binding up, it's about a 4-Hour job to do this window regulator, so while I'm at it, I'm figuring I'm going to go ahead and replace the motor at the same time, they don't sell the regulator combo, so I'm just going to have to go ahead and buy them separately. So my question is. Is there a preferred brand that you will use? The last time I put a window motor in was over 10 years ago and it was in a Dodge truck, and I probably got a Cardone .
Thank you

 

[TmanP]

I'd be careful about replacing a decent OEM part (the motor) with anything that isn't OEM - your replacement, if it's not OE quality, might not last as long as the one that's in there currently. Just a thought.

 

[Scott S]

I'm actually looking for a Motorcraft window lift motor right now, but it's not really being very clear it says passenger side part number 7T4Z-7823394-A but it doesn't tell me if that's the front or rear passenger side.. ?? I already have a Motorcraft window regulator in my cart at the moment on RockAuto.

 

[Scott S]

Motorcraft does not have one, it comes down to Cardone, ACI, Napa or dorman.

 

[atikovi]

Motors should go over 30 years. Only the regulator wears out. And 2013 is a bit early for that. Sure the guides don't just need lube?

 

[Scott S]

Making a loud banging noise.. on its way up..

 

[92saturnsl2]

I'd be careful about replacing a decent OEM part (the motor) with anything that isn't OEM - your replacement, if it's not OE quality, might not last as long as the one that's in there currently. Just a thought.

I agree with this. I've had plenty of vehicles with a broken regulator, never one with a bad motor.

There's nearly a zero chance of an aftermarket replacement motor being as good quality as the OEM unit. The OEM unit, even at 10 years old, will likely last longer than whatever aftermarket part you put in, IMO. Save yourself the money.

 

[KneeGrinder]

I would strongly suggest you remove door panel, diagnose with the door panel off, but you can remove the window switch from the door panel, you may just have alot of dirt, mold, and debrie. Maybe you could just start with a flat blade screwdriver to help clean the weather strip. Next, if your widow motor is a cable drive and is in fact moving some, its not the cable drive motor, it may be the track somehow got mis aliened, or jumped the track. Now thinking about it, I would give almost a 50% chance the window jumped the track, and you just need to remove door panel and get it back on the track. Hopefully thats what it is. It will cost you nothing but time.

Some vehicles have a very large metal plate that the regulator is attached to, this may inhibit your diagnoses. In that case I would remove the metal panel as a complete unit, the window will need to be un bolted to remove the "Stupid" metal panel covering the assy, you should be able to diagnose if you put in the time. I can do them in less than an hour start to finish.

I have been retired for 15 years, but I have not seen a window regulator system than was old school gear driven, they are pretty much "ALL" cable drive, thats why windows are very smooth compared to the 80's gear drive.

"IF your window does infact move at all, its not the regulator!" I personally don't recall having a modern window motor fail, the cable breaks! "Please, use an OE regulator if you have to replace it". If the cable is broken, there is no fixing it, must buy a new regulator assy!

I'm actually looking for a Motorcraft window lift motor right now, but it's not really being very clear it says passenger side part number 7T4Z-7823394-A but it doesn't tell me if that's the front or rear passenger side.. ?? I already have a Motorcraft window regulator in my cart at the moment on RockAuto.

You must verify front or rear, left or right, in all my days, I have never seen the same cable drive motor for front and rear. I also did not work on Fords, except my own F350, 7.3L diesels. I have had a few of them.

 

[KneeGrinder]

I just read your latest reply, sounds like its a window track issue, follow advice above and don't keep on trying to raise and lower the window, the cable may break!

I personally don't think you need any parts, just some time, Diagnose it. "Good Luck" its not that hard to do!

 

[Scott S]

Ok thanks.

 

[mk378]

4 hours? Does the door need to be removed from the car or something? I just can't see a roll-up door window being that complicated.

I totally agree with @KneeGrinder here-- any time a car makes a noise it is best to exactly locate the source of the noise before buying any parts. A periodic bang bang bang could be due to missing teeth on the motor main gear as it goes around.

 

[Scott S]

4 hours? Does the door need to be removed from the car or something? I just can't see a roll-up door window being that complicated.

I totally agree with @KneeGrinder here-- any time a car makes a noise it is best to exactly locate the source of the noise before buying any parts. A periodic bang bang bang could be due to missing teeth on the motor main gear as it goes around.

Friend of mine told me that has all data, it's a four-hour job, he took a quick listen yesterday and we're figuring it's the regulator, so we said you might as well just replace the motor at the same time.. while I'm in there.. I have a Motorcraft regulator and I have a Motorcraft window lift motor..