Will be installin Tranny by-pass. Have questions

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roman

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Well I have decided that right now, I will be installing an Amsoil bypass filtration system on the tranny in my car. 4t65e (99 Grand Prix GT w/65,000km).

So I have s few basic questions from any Amsoil reps, or bypass gurus.

- How much does the stock filter in the tranny filter micron wise? 80 microns?
- How much do standard oil filters like a Puralator filter? 30 Microns?
- I am assuming a bypass filters at apx 2 microns?

What I want to do is install a full flow like a Puralator filter, then going into an Amsoil bypass. However, to keep things simple, I would be installing the filters in series using this

Taken from Olympic
Go the their online store then go to
>>Air & Oil Filters, Filtration Products, By-Pass Filters, Oil Analysis
>>>AMSOIL Oil Filters, By-Pass Filters, Replacement Parts & Accessories
>>>By-Pass Replacement Parts, Accessories and Oil Sending Unit Adapters
Then scroll down to the BP-80A.

So, next questions are

- Will this work?
- If this does work, does that mean that the full flow will never go into by-pass mode, or will always go into by-pass mode?
- In doing this, how much longer can the bypass filter be left in? What is the max time they can be left in for? I would most likely be replacing the full flow every 10,000 km or 6 months.


That’s all the questions I think I have, but if you have other things to add, please feel free to. Thank-you
Roman
 
I don't think running an engine-type full flow filter in series with a bypass filter is necessary at all on a transmission. You're just adding unnecessary expense and complications.

You won't be filtering the ATF any better and even the "baby" BE-90 bypass filter has alot of media and will last for tens of thousands of miles without plugging on a transmission. I plan on running mine for 60k miles.

Amsoil recommends changing their bypass filters yearly when used on an engine, probably because the ADBV might stop functioning. But when you use it as a stand alone bypass, it really doesn't matter if some oil drains back out of the filter. The outgoing oil is not needed to lubricate anything. So you could run the same filter until it no longer becomes hot while in use(plugged).

So my recommendation is to just follow what I did in my "Montana" post. It's simple, cheap and low maintenance. Regulate the flow to 16-20oz/min and you'll have the equivalent of a tranny flush done on your car every 20 minutes. It's about the best protection against dirty oil you can get.
 
Just curouse, whats everyones opinion on how much longer a amsoil bypass filter will extend the life of a transmission, that really only sees city use?

Roman
 
Personally, I'd spend the money on a cooler before a BP filter. Trannsmission fluid fails from excess heat in most cases. If you have enough stuff in the stock filter to plug it up, you've got big problems. I usually get 150,000 plus on my chevy trannys with just the stock filter. I have a drain plug in each one and do a drain and flush yearly, then about every 3rd time, pull the pan and change the filter too. Its NEVER been plugged or even close to it. Keeping the oil cooler is more important to me.
 
I agree with the above. An external cooler should be the first upgrade, the bypass second. If your willing to change the ATF often, then the bypass probably isn't necessary.

In my case, I put on far too many miles very quickly to be bothered with changing the ATF every 10-20k. Downtime(and my time) are a big consideration. I also keep my vehichles to atleast 300k miles and I'm hoping my current regime of Amsoil ATF, an external cooler and a bypass filter will help me get there on the factory transmission. I've had to replace way too many in the past and at $3000+CDN each, it's too costly to ignore. I'm almost afraid to ask how much a tranny for my Pontiac Vibe is. I wouldn't be surprised if it's $5000+!
shocked.gif



quote:
Just curouse, whats everyones opinion on how much longer a amsoil bypass filter will extend the life of a transmission, that really only sees city use?

Roman
Click to expand...
When you combine a bypass filter, a cooler and synthetic ATF, the trans should last the life of the vehichle. That is unless the trans has a design defect like Ford's AXOD. Either way, this combination will give it the best shot at surviving. Heat and dirt are your enemy, eliminate them and you've eliminated 99% of the causes of early transmission failures.
 
Yes..!! A Bypass filter such as the Frantz or MotorGaurd along with a cooler will result in a loooong lasting Transmission.. You don't really even need the synthetic fluid though.. You'll have 100% clean fluid 100% of the time.. But I guess it won't hurt.
Dirty fluid/oil will overheat long before clean fluid will. The metal contaminates will hold the heat within the fluid. Heat buildup in dirty fluid won't dissipate as fast as clean fluid will.. If you let your transmission fluid get dirty it will eventually break down and tend to overheat. I haven't yet seen scorched transmission fluid that was clean..
grin.gif


[ October 18, 2004, 03:37 PM: Message edited by: Mykro ]
 
quote:
What about a car/truck that already has a tranny cooler built into the radiator? Wouldn't a good synthetic and a bypass filter be enough in this situation?
Click to expand...
The factory cooler in the radiator is barely adequate for light driving. If you do any stop and go driving, "spirited" driving, towing, etc, it is not good enough and an external cooler will help keep the temps down. You only have to overheat the fluid once to glaze the bands and clutchs and cause permanent damage.
 
I fitted an external cooler and full flow filter to my wifes Caravan minivan transmission.

Top view of filter, looking down between engine and radiator:
-


Front grille view, showing the Hayden cooler:
-


Side view of filter, tucked behind the steel bumper rail:
-


The filter base has an electronic temperature sensor installed, but I didn't wire up the temperature gauge yet.

Installation was easy. The hoses are routed:

transmission out -> filter -> new cooler -> factory in-radiator cooler -> transmission.

No leaks at all
smile.gif
I flush every 20K miles with ATF+3 and the fluid coming out has always been a clean and bright red, just like new. Flushes are easy now - just remove the filter and start the engine.

This 4 speed Chrysler electronically controlled transmission is a known troublemaker. Both speed sensors were replaced at about 50K miles because they stopped working. Up to 105K miles total now and still shifts like new. If I can get 200K out of it, it won't owe me anything.
 
I installed a trasco bypass filter and a external trans cooler and noticed an immediate improvement in shifting at about the 100 mile mark. It really smoothed out the tranny.The bypass should be located before any of the coolers so your filtering hot oil.Make sure your external oil cooler is installed in series "after" the radiator cooler or you will be reheating the tranny oil when it goes through your hot radiator .
 
quote:
Originally posted by 4.8 Silverado:
Make sure your external oil cooler is installed in series "after" the radiator cooler or you will be reheating the tranny oil when it goes through your hot radiator .
Click to expand...
That is not necessarily the best way. With the additional cooler AFTER the factory cooler, you can be sending super cool fluid into the transmission in the winter months, especially if you mostly have short trips. I have a photocopy of an old transmission manual that states you should not run the transmission continuously with fluid at 150F or below. 170F-200F is the ideal range. Basically, the fluid life halves with each 20 degree increase. At 212F, fluid life is 25,000 miles.

I'll have my temperature gauge hooked up before the frost gets here. I expect it to run near 170F.

EDIT - the information comes from GM and Allison transmission manuals. I don't have the manuals, just a few photocopied pages.
 
quote:
When you combine a bypass filter, a cooler and synthetic ATF, the trans should last the life of the vehichle.
Click to expand...
What about a car/truck that already has a tranny cooler built into the radiator? Wouldn't a good synthetic and a bypass filter be enough in this situation?
 
I place more weight on clean fluid over "cool" fluid. I trust that the stock radiator cooler in my Echo has been properly designed to do the job - atfer all, this is an accepted way to cool transmission oil, just look at any piece of heavy-duty machinery with a powershift transmission! Also, a real transmission filter (not a Magnafine) mounted in front of the radiator will give you some extra cooling over the stock design.
 
keith ,the instructions for my B&M 24kgvw cooler recommend that it be installed after the radiator."This method provides maximum cooling by returning the coolest oil directly to the transmission".It also goes on to state that this installation method "complies with most new car warranties".I see your point and I hope B&M knows what they are talking about.My chevy service manual shows a minimum ATF operating temp of69.8 degrees.Maximum operating temp is 219.2 degrees.The PCM will reprogram the amount of torque converter slip and shift firmness according to the trans oil temp.

[ October 19, 2004, 06:16 PM: Message edited by: 4.8 Silverado ]
 
quote:
Originally posted by 4.8 Silverado:
"This method provides maximum cooling by returning the coolest oil directly to the transmission".It also goes on to state that this installation method "complies with most new car warranties".I see your point and I hope B&M knows what they are talking about.
Click to expand...
I think either way is fine. By the vehicle manufacturers reasoning, the standard cooling is enough already - and of course we disagree with that
smile.gif


With the extra cooler after the factory cooler, I expect you can achieve lower fluid temperatures. With the converse, I think you will get a more even fluid temperature through the weather seasons and vehicle usage, and a consistently lower temperature than without the extra cooler.

The fluid gets really hot in the Dodge Caravan 1999. Even the filter is radiating a lot of heat. Can't wait to get my temperature gauge hooked up, but way too busy this week. We are getting the wood floors refinished in the second half of our house this week. Last week we did the other half. All of our furniture and stuff is getting boxed and moved around. The oak floors are getting a StreetShoe satin finish.

StreetShoe XL Commercial Wood Floor Coating
 
quote:
Originally posted by 4.8 Silverado:
Keith, how do you post pics here? I would like to show my install also. Thanks,Chris.
Click to expand...
You need to put the image files on YOUR server (most ISP's offer at least a few megabytes of storage) and then use the IMAGE button below and enter the full web address of your images. Typically you have to use an ftp program to upload your images to your server, but some servers also allow http uploads and you can then upload from any web browser.
 
I didn't see anyone touch this ...so I will.
quote:
I would be installing the filters in series using this
Click to expand...
The Amsoil BP80A has a .030 restrictor on its outlet.

Would you run your cooling circuit of your trans with a .030 flow capacity??? This isn't the "ventury" special thingie for the Frantz type install.

I would install this in parallel to the cooling circuit right out of the trans ..attempting to "bypass" the cooling circuit. There has to be a pressure diffential between "fluid out and fluid in" ..so that should provide enough push to allow this .030 (allegedly .060 ..but I measured it to .029 with Meyers pin gauges) all the flow it can handle.

..and no, before any of you say it, the cooler won't even notice the difference in flow ..and therefore the fluid temp will have no measurable difference in temp drop.

Anyone else see the folly of doing this "in-line" ..or did I miss something
confused.gif
 
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