wild variations in voltage

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Originally Posted by StevieC
Originally Posted by MNgopher
Funny - the system in my F150 has an AGM battery, and in the cold we've been having routinely runs at 15.0 volts. But that's only when its cold - in the summer it usually peaks out around 14.6. The charge voltage is dependent on battery temp.

I wonder though if it decreases the useable life because of it over time, even if it's just using 15v when it's cold.

I know in the manual for my Oddesey AGM battery I had put in the Journey, it said under no circumstances should charging voltages exceed 14.7 as the vents on the battery would open at 15v.


If one reads the Odyssey technical information, you will find a fun graph that shows the temperature compensation. The max of 14.7 volts is typically at an assumed 77 degrees F (normal for batteries - ideal conditions). Higher or lower temps and the voltage changes. Somewhere around -15C (5F), that ideal charging voltage is... you guessed it - around 15 volts. Go even colder and it is actually higher than that.
 
Originally Posted by MNgopher

While GM has done better than ford at giving you real gauges, when they start moving around like this, it makes people wonder if something is wrong. The end result will be either a wildly dampened gauge (more like an indicator light) or removal of the gauge entirely (F150's don;t have one for example (standard 4 are oil pressure, fuel level, coolant temp, and transmission temp).


Most watercooled japanese motorcycles have temperature gauges that report the actual coolant temperature, which leads to many forum discussions as to what the "correct" temperature should be. I know of some litre bike owners who have installed manual switches to activate the radiator fan(s).

When I had my FZ1 ECU reflashed to address the abrupt throttle 'snatch', I also had the tuner set the fans to come on at 200F instead of 215F, as well as correct the speedo inacurracy...
 
Originally Posted by MNgopher
If one reads the Odyssey technical information, you will find a fun graph that shows the temperature compensation. The max of 14.7 volts is typically at an assumed 77 degrees F (normal for batteries - ideal conditions). Higher or lower temps and the voltage changes. Somewhere around -15C (5F), that ideal charging voltage is... you guessed it - around 15 volts. Go even colder and it is actually higher than that.


Funny because I own the 20amp Odyssey battery charger (pictures posted here somewhere) and it doesn't go past 14.7 volts even when it's outside in the dead of winter.
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I wonder if the Odyssey battery charger doesn't (or can't) compensate for temperature. The battery management on the truck takes into account battery temps in its charging logic. The AGM manufacturers who post technical data all have similar graphs as Odyssey that the voltage can run a lot higher when its cold enough...
 
Originally Posted by CT8
The extra .001 mpg here and .001 t there add up.



Exactly... It's nonsense.
 
StevieC.

I cannot find in the Odyssey AGM tech manual where they say in excess of 15 volts will pop the vents. The only reference I see to 15v is this statement:
Quote
The message to be taken from this graph is clear - in deep
cycling applications it is important to have the charge
voltage set at 14.4 - 15.0V. A nominal setting of 14.7V
is a good choice, as shown by the test results.


http://www.odysseybattery.com/documents/US-ODY-TM.pdf

In their 'reconditioning procedure' they say not to exceed 15 volts, but the reconditioning procedure consists of a relatively quick 100% discharge quickly followed by a high amp recharge, upto 14.7v, not to exceed 15v.

http://www.odysseybattery.com/documents/ODYSSEY_Battery_Reconditioning_Charge_Procedure.pdf


This is FAR different from recharging an 80% charged battery beyond 15v, as an 80% charged battery will not accept huge aperages for a long time and heat up significantly just from charging or build high pressures.

I've been deepcycling a Northstar AGM since Late November 2013, and using it to start my engine and deep cycle 240 times+ per year since July 2015.

It hass seen plently of time above 14.7v, and Northstar lists 14.46v as their recommended absorption voltage limit at 77f.

My point is that exceeding the recommended voltages is not an instant killer of AGMs. It is not as if they are one time vents, pop once and forever after useless. It is high rate recharging of a well depleted battery to and above 14.7v at a battery temperature of 77f in which the likely hood of the vents allowing some pressure to escape increases.

If exceeding the recommendations were instant death, my battery would have been recycled long ago.

Here in the Lifeline tech manual, Lifeline being a very well respected AGM deep cycle battery, their conditioning procedure is to take the battery to 15.5v for 8 hours, after a normal 'full' charge has been applied.

scroll to page 21

http://lifelinebatteries.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/12/6-0101-Rev-E-Lifeline-Technical-Manual.pdf

The deep discharge recovery procedure outline on page 22 requires special equipment and close monitoring with a constant current charging source, but they say voltages as high as 3.0 per cell can be expected. That is 18volts!

Granted Lifeline/Concorde are the ONLY AGM manufacturer to say voltages over 15 are OK. They are also Mil-$pec.

Note that the lesser AGM$, will say to limit charging amperage to 30% of capacity at 14.5 to 14.9v.

Here is a 67LB 100AH group 27 battery
https://www.wholesalesolar.com/cms/upg-ub-121000-agm-battery-specs-753736796.pdf

In 'cyclic' duty, is says the voltage range is 14.5 to 14.9v.

I recently got a Ub12180 as a portable 12vDC source, which is an 18Ah AGM, same as this.

https://www.sunwize.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/02/Data_Sheet-1-D5745.pdf

It says No more than 5.4 amps and the same 14.5 to 14.9v.

I discharged it well below 50%, removing 12 Ah of its 18 AH total, at an average 2.6 amp rate. It earned its 18 Ah rating providing 0.9 amps for 20 hours until voltage hits 10.5v so at 2.6 amps Peukert steps in and further reduces available capacity.

When I recharged it, I set my 40 amp adjustable voltage power supply to 14.7v and hooked it to the battery.
The initial inrush of current was 38.2 amps, which settled to about 32 amps within 10 seconds. Basically Instant absorption voltage, saturating charging.

5 minutes later it was still accepting 25 amps. The sides of the case were not bulging, the battery was not heating excessively, there was no abnormal noises coming from the battery. 5 minutes after that it was still accepting 22 amps, and I had things to do, and could not monitor the battery closely anymore, so I lowered voltage until only 10 amps were flowing, and then came back in stages to raise voltage slowly back to the 14.7v range keeping amperage in the sub 10 amp range the first two times..

I exceeded the recommended initial amperage 'limit' by a factor of 6. No popped vents, no thermal runaway. This battery 1 week off the charger reads 13.17v.

My point is that AGMs are not going to instantly be destroyed by exceeding the manufacturer recommended voltages. Like all lead acid batteries, they are extremely tolerant of voltages outside of the manufacture 'recommeded' ideal which is really more of what they figure will lead to the least possible amount of warranty returns in how they figure the majority of consumers will employ the battery.

An AGM as a starting battery that lives at a relatively high state of charge, is never going to be able to accpet huge amperages for long, and will not heat up much, nor be likely to release pressure, as the pressure really only builds when the battery has been accepting high amperages for a long time( meaning a well discharged state) and in that situation then exceeding 15v is to be avoided.

In my opinion, the ONLY time an AGM owner using it solely as a starter battery has to worry about the vents opening, is in hot ambient temperatures, and the owner has run the battery flat, jump starts the engine, then gets on the highway, and the vehicle's voltage regulator holds 14.7v+ the whole time. Which is extremely unlikely. Note idling the engine to recharge a well depleted AGM is very hard on the alternator, especially if it is being told to seek and maintain high voltages. Underhood airflow and alternator fan rpm is required to keep it cooler.

Even if the vents do open and release some pressure, it is not the end of the battery, far from it. Dozens and dozens of such events would likely be required before it would become 'dried out'. A flooded battery whose plates are exposed actually holds higher voltages than one would expect, and will appear to be working abnormally well. It is when it is refilled that the voltages plummet after loading it and even long trimes held at higher voltages do not seem to raise specific gravity, and the battery behaves like a goner, depending on just how much plate material was exposed to air, and for how long.


What Lead acid batteries are NOT tolerant of, is chronic undercharging, living their life in a partial state of charge The lower the average state of charge and the longer they stay there the faster they lose capacity and ability until its CCA has lowered to the point where it cannot start the engine, likely in the first cold snap. When they lose capacity and cranking amps, and the procedures for capacity recovery actually require 'abusing' the battery, discharging it hard and heavy, high amp recharging it, getting it hot( sub 110f), and holding it at higher voltages until amperage no longer tapers. I put abusing in quotes as so many people think that all batteries like to be slowly charged, when AGMS especially, can be tickled to death with too low a charging rate and traditional often parrotted internet hearsay is total BS.

Odyssey AGM basically says lather rinse repeat in their reconditioning procedure:

Quote
Performing more than one discharge and recharge cycle is beneficial to
increasing restored capacity.



I was recently noticing my 5+ year old 90 AH 930CCA Group 27 Northstar AGM that has over 1000 deep cycles, the amps at absorption voltage were not tapering to 0.4a, but would bottom out in the 0.9amp range before they would start rising again. I performed Odyssey's reconditioning procedure, and now amps will taper to 0.3 amps, before they start rising again. Voltage held during discharge/ engine cranking is now higher than before the procedure, and I have not repeated it again, yet.

I have not deliberately taken this battery much above 15v for very long, it perhaps has spent a total of 10 hours above 15 volts, in its 5+ year lifespan of 1000+ deep cycles, and high amp recharges.

The reason this battery has lasted so long, performed so well, is because I can perform high amp recharges, and can hold high absorption voltages for as long as is required for amperage to taper to 0.5% of capacity(20 hr rate). Meaning fully charged, something most garage chargers cannot and will not do, despite their marketing of them saying they will also fellate the owner once the green light comes on after their special proprietary 13 stage charging algorithm has completed.
 
I've been observing the charging system of my 2017 Tucson for a few weeks since getting a voltmeter that plugs into the 12V outlet.
First I checked the accuracy of the meter against a known accurate DVM. Agrees within 0.1V.
With ambient temps in the 30s F voltage rises to 14.7V about 5 seconds after starting.
When the system thinks the battery is charged enough voltage abruptly drops to 12.7V.
If the headlights turn on (auto or manual) volts back up to 14.7.
Accel, decel, other accessories don't seem to affect voltage.
I've installed a 5W solar panel that sits on the dashboard that keeps bat voltage 12.9V in the sun.
I drive mostly short trips on the weekend so the panel is to help keep the battery near full.
We had a 10" snow and a stretch of cloudy days where the car didn't get driven or solar charged for 2 weeks.
After that it took a couple hours driving for the running voltage to drop from 14.x to 12.7V.

My previous Toyota Matrix I'd take the battery out once a month in the winter (3 months in the other seasons)
and charge it with a variable supply 14V for however many hours to stop tapering,
then charge for an hour at 16V.
I replaced the original battery after 9 years. Still going strong, but didn't trust for a 10th winter.
Haven't done this with the Tucson. Hoping the solar panel will do the job.
These are flooded batteries I'm talking about.
 
Originally Posted by MNgopher
I wonder if the Odyssey battery charger doesn't (or can't) compensate for temperature. The battery management on the truck takes into account battery temps in its charging logic. The AGM manufacturers who post technical data all have similar graphs as Odyssey that the voltage can run a lot higher when its cold enough...

It does take that into account... I have the manual at home and I'm just leaving my office but I do recall it saying that it will modify the charging voltage.
 
Originally Posted by circuitsmith
I've been observing the charging system of my 2017 Tucson for a few weeks since getting a voltmeter that plugs into the 12V outlet.
First I checked the accuracy of the meter against a known accurate DVM. Agrees within 0.1V.
With ambient temps in the 30s F voltage rises to 14.7V about 5 seconds after starting.
When the system thinks the battery is charged enough voltage abruptly drops to 12.7V.
If the headlights turn on (auto or manual) volts back up to 14.7.
Accel, decel, other accessories don't seem to affect voltage.
I've installed a 5W solar panel that sits on the dashboard that keeps bat voltage 12.9V in the sun.
I drive mostly short trips on the weekend so the panel is to help keep the battery near full.
We had a 10" snow and a stretch of cloudy days where the car didn't get driven or solar charged for 2 weeks.
After that it took a couple hours driving for the running voltage to drop from 14.x to 12.7V.

My previous Toyota Matrix I'd take the battery out once a month in the winter (3 months in the other seasons)
and charge it with a variable supply 14V for however many hours to stop tapering,
then charge for an hour at 16V.
I replaced the original battery after 9 years. Still going strong, but didn't trust for a 10th winter.
Haven't done this with the Tucson. Hoping the solar panel will do the job.
These are flooded batteries I'm talking about.


In addition to smart charging systems some OE's like Chrysler and Toyota are using clutches (decouplers) so that add's to not knowing if the reading you are getting is where it should be. You really have to rely on the ECU to tell you if the alternator has a problem or not. Or checking resting battery voltage but even then if it chooses a slightly under rated SOC then you can't confirm there either. It's really hard to diagnose without knowing the exact system in use. Service Manuals from the OE's or online resources are the best way to find out what the appropriate test procedure is for these systems. Or if you can find a knowledgeable mechanic that has a YouTube channel and has a video on your specific model.
 
Originally Posted by StevieC
Originally Posted by HangFire
Originally Posted by StevieC
What would be a problem would be someone putting in an AGM battery into one of these situations because AGM doesn't like voltages above 14.7.
I wonder how many AGM's are dying an early death because of that in these situations.

I've heard 14.8, close enough. I've given up warning people about this aspect of AGM batteries. I get told I'm wrong, then I'm ignored.

Then the same people complain about declining AGM battery quality, when they die early, and now they're trying a different brand. OK....


Here is a snap-shot for the charging procedure for Odyssey AGM batteries... They go on later to talk about the vents opening at 15 volts so 14.7 listed below is the safe limit between this and 15v with a buffer of .3v
(Most chargers I have seen that can charge AGM will stop at 14.7v as their maximum for AGM mode)


Let's make sure we get facts straight. Going above 14.7-14.8v doesn't magically produce tons of hydrogen and automatically open vents. If anything, in AGM, recombination is better and offgas is more easily handled.

The story is this - for a given resistance, the higher the voltage, the more current can go in to a battery. This is the same relationship I talk about everywhere. Vt = Voc +/- IR.

AGM tends to have lower R, so I can be higher for a given voltage. Go higher, force too much current, you offgas more. But you ne3d two things to offgas - enough voltage to make it electrochemical favorable, and then current. Just having voltage with no current won't split water molecules. Amperes/coulombs relate to moles of electrons, and moles relate to amounts of materials. That's HS chemistry.

So why am I saying this here? Because it's entirely plausible for a smart, current limiting charging system (limiting current to limit power is why these control voltage, recall the equation above) to not vent an AGM if modulated correctly. You have to force consistently enough current at high enough voltage, to overcome recombination and vent...

People can take calculated risks from there...
 
Originally Posted by ragtoplvr
Enjoy your longer battery life.

I think you've got that backwards. These newer systems sacrifice fully charging the battery for miniscule gains in MPG, so the result is a slow battery death because CAFE only cares about MPG.
 
My 13 year old pickup has the smart charging system and the charging voltage varies from 12.6 v to 15 v , just like the OP's. All controlled by the RVC, the Regulated Voltage Control.
The analogue voltmeter on the instrument panel does show this variation.
I can monitor the voltage on the ScanGauge but it displays 0.4 v less than the actual voltage at the battery.
 
Originally Posted by Anduril
Originally Posted by ragtoplvr
Enjoy your longer battery life.

I think you've got that backwards. These newer systems sacrifice fully charging the battery for miniscule gains in MPG, so the result is a slow battery death because CAFE only cares about MPG.


I was going to say the same thing. The battery is probably "charged" but not high enough to be truly, fully charged. However, no alternator ever really does that.

Small transients from full state of charge don't bother me. Keeping the chemistry in a very narrow state of charge can provide millions of micro cycles - enough that it's not a big deal. But if that occurs and the random shutdown of a car use causes the battery to exist at an even lower SOC, then it's life will be more compromised.

Originally Posted by George7941
My 13 year old pickup has the smart charging system and the charging voltage varies from 12.6 v to 15 v , just like the OP's. All controlled by the RVC, the Regulated Voltage Control.
The analogue voltmeter on the instrument panel does show this variation.
I can monitor the voltage on the ScanGauge but it displays 0.4 v less than the actual voltage at the battery.


Interesting that you notice the variation between the scan gauge reading and the actual dc distribution value - I do too in my 1998 chevy. I don't know that it has a controller though.
 
The RVC is supposed to maintain at least 80% state of charge but, as displayed on the Tech2 scantool, my battery hovers around 65 to 70% soc. I can be driving down the highway with little electrical load and the RVC will drop the charging voltage down to 12.6v even though the battery is only at 70% soc. Not supposed to do that.
It does not seem to hurt the battery much though. I get at least five years life out of it.
 
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