Wifes PT Cruiser

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First i would like to say HI.
I need a recommendation on oil and how long should I go on and oil change.
First my wife is very hard on oil and her pt cruiser but she loves this car so, this car is started about 4 to 5 time a day shortest trip is about 2 miles and longest is about 6 miles.
I do try to sneak her car out on the weekend and run it on the high way for about a 20 miles. She don't like me driving her car because she thinks I drive it to fast, Also this car now has about 55000 on it the first 38000 is was no QSGB used about 1qt every 2500 miles changed it to Mobil 1 Because of varnish on the dip stick oil consumption went up to about 1qt every 800 miles. first change on Mobil 1 was in 3500 miles oil came oil in clumps and very dark also PCV value was changed in that oil change. Mobil 1 put back in oil consumption stayed at 1qt every 800 miles oil changed in about 4000 miles oil came out very dark but looked a lot better. switched to Mobil 1 HM oil consumption went down to 1qt every 1000 miles changed again at 4500 miles oil looked a lot better. next oil change was Valvoline Maxlife oil consumption went down to about 1 qt every 1500 miles changed at 4000 miles. Changed again with Valvoline Maxlife oil consumption has went down to about 1/2qt every 1000 miles.

Should I stay with Valvoline Maxlife 5w30? also how long should I let this car go on a oil change? any help would be great.
I know my wife is working on killing this car but she loves it, so i am trying to take care of it.
 
Is this the turbocharged engine or?

High mileage oils might take some time to show reduced consumption.

I think this is a 5w30 application depending on what year it is and using a 5w20 could accelerate consumption.
 
I believe all the engines all the way up to 2010 should be 5w30.

I think maxlife is a good choice if your going to be changing it at least once a year. It sounds like the mileage will still be low per year.
 
Use the maxlife HM and top it off as needed. Change it every 4-5 k miles and check it frequently. Burning a little oil is OK as long as you check andtop off frequently.
 
Having the same engine in my 97 Dodge, I can tell you 5W-30 should work flawlessly. 5W-20 works great too but given your consumption, I'd stay on a 30 to prevent more consumption. 5k miles given your short tripping is likely a solid number to run any dino out to in it.

Just try to find an oil that limits the oil burnoff and keep it topped off and be happy. Like others have said, try HM oils and see how far you get.
 
Thank you all i will stick it out with Maxlife and change 4000 to 5000 miles.
I was just looking through the filter threads and was wondering, I use Wix oil filter 51348 should i try using the one on the turbo model Wix 51516 or may go with a P1.
 
Almost everything inside my wife's PT Cruiser's engine that reciprocates or rotates is different than the regular PT Cruiser, but I'm still troubled that the oil came out in clumps.
shocked.gif


I'm not sure if it is turbo specific but I believe the recommendation is for 10W30. No worries though. I've always used 5W30 now for 100,000 miles.
 
In my mother's 97 plymouth breeze, it was much of the same, except that many of the trips were 5 blocks or so instead, loaded with stuff.

We found that using M1 syn, we can run the non-severe interval with this and the car still runs great with 160k miles.

Dont overthink it, use a good syn oil, run a normal interval, do a UOA to verify and then run with it.

The best thing you can do is ensure that every now and again, the vehicle gets a >30 mile continuous drive to get all fluids up to temp.
 
Originally Posted By: cooper_m22
I use Wix oil filter 51348 should i try using the one on the turbo model Wix 51516 or may go with a P1.


A Wix 51516 (equivalent to a FRAM 3600) is all I use on my car. I'd throw one on there in your position. It clears everything fine and its nearly twice as long.
 
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Only oil that meets these specifications should be used: API certified, SAE 5W-30, Chrysler MS-6395
 
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Originally Posted By: 901Memphis
I believe all the engines all the way up to 2010 should be 5w30.

I think maxlife is a good choice if your going to be changing it at least once a year. It sounds like the mileage will still be low per year.


Even the ones with a few exceptions should use 5w30 even if 5w20 is "recommended" It is better for the engine.
A 5w20 will break down to a 5w10 weight with any heat /use . That is just too thin to be good for an engine IMO.

Brace for the OLD stale net response
but the engineers know best - yeah right
 
Originally Posted By: badnews
Originally Posted By: 901Memphis
I believe all the engines all the way up to 2010 should be 5w30.

I think maxlife is a good choice if your going to be changing it at least once a year. It sounds like the mileage will still be low per year.


Even the ones with a few exceptions should use 5w30 even if 5w20 is "recommended" It is better for the engine.
A 5w20 will break down to a 5w10 weight with any heat /use . That is just too thin to be good for an engine IMO.

Brace for the OLD stale net response
but the engineers know best - yeah right


badnews, i have some badnews. your thoughts on this are incorrect. 20wt oils in general are more shear stable than 30wt oils.

also it is more likely that a 30wt will shear close to a 20wt than a 20 wt ever getting close to an actual 10wt. also 5w10 is not a classification for passenger car oil. a few companies do make a 5w10 oil (RP) comes to mind here, but it is made for racing applications.

also as a few members informed me a while back the specs for the RP 5w10 oil are actually just as thick as the 5w20's that are used by many manufactures.

to the OP use whatever your manufacture recommends. if the engine is spec'd for 5w30 use that. if it has been back spec'd to a 5w20 use either one you would like.
 
Hello! I have the same engine in our 2000 caravan with 177K and it burns 1Qt./3000 of 5W30. My guess will be that seen the extreme/severe/mean service the engine receives (unavoidable since life has higher priorities than warming up engine oils) a ring or rings are stuck, if you perform a "piston soak" (you can search here for procedure) you might get them loose, or try Mopar Combustion Chamber Cleaner first, you might get lucky, it is pretty strong stuff.
 
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