Why use Redline and Redline Clone oils...

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They are a fantastic oil. I found a local guy who gets it for me.Dave at Redline is awesome to deal with. All my buddies run the 10w60 Redline in their BMW cars and swear by it. https://speedsport.com/sports-cars/scca/scca-gt-x-class-homologated-cars/ I run all the oil/cvt fluid by Redline because it works and Realtime Honda / HART racing run exclusively Redline. Seems Honda runs well on high moly oils. I'm a huge fan but I dont push it in peoples face or down their throats. If I did then I would be like the ones who claim to be the first,or the best, or liquid engineered,etc. I dont want them finding out a secret. Only other oils I would consider are Motul 300V line,Ravenol,Torco,and croda lubricants.
 
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Yawn. It's 100% advertisement. They act like no other oil companies have or use PAO and Esters. FAKE NEWS. If it works for you, great. But anybody, even AMSOIL, can make a flashy advertising video... but that doesn't mean there aren't as good or better oils out there. Thanks for the vid, it was entertaining.
 
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Gearbox and rear end: Yes, especially in a manual transmission. Automatic transmission: Owned from new and planning to abuse, yes. Normal applications, no. Engine oil: In a race car or hot rod, yes. Normal car, probably not. Air cooled: ??????? You would have to have a pretty insane car for it to warrant a boutique engine oil. Edit: The HP claim they advertise is only temporary, like one or two drag strip passes temporary.
 
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I'm getting sick of dumb adds being looked at as having scientific founding...they've dumbed any "facts" that they were trying to portray so far down the dumb scale is to make them plain silly. Oil molecules bumping into each other, adding oxygen to esters...for example More racers worldwide use it...more than ALL the other oils combined, more than each of the other brands individually ? open ended claim. They were particularly sneaky in using the VII free 5W30 to pain a picture which is certainly not true for other grades (e.g. the 5W50 with a VI of 186 is certainly NOT VII free). BTW, before being labelled a hater, like the other threads... It's good oil, I like it, I have a case of it for the driveline in the Colorado (would have been those Amsoil easy packs but we don't get them in Oz, so went Redline)
 
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And BTW, what's a Redline Clone, and how does the advertisement relate to recommending them ?
 
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Seems like fantastic oil but their PCMO is too expensive for me to justify, and I doubt it makes a real difference for the VQ37VHR. Mine gets Mobil1 5w30 Vanilla as of now but I am probably switching to either 0w40 or the 5w30 E.P. when I change it next month for a little more high temp protection for the same price. I do really really like the Redline D6 transmission fluid in my power steering rack, mainly because their is virtually no difference between hot and cold performance with it.
 
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Their website says they sell the oil at O'reilly's but I went to 2 different stores to see how much it is and none of them had any! They said they have to order it LOL
 
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I use their D4 in my F-450s parking brake unit, it gets so hot that any other ATF would actually boil off (calls for Ford Type H), and their power steering fluid in my hydroboost systems because they burn conventional PS fluid from the excess heat. Otherwise I don't really see a need? Maybe if a lot of track time was involved?
 
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I have no real issue with a fancy oil or a boutique oil or whatever, per se. I do, however, have a problem with justifying its use for most occasions, based upon cost. At Canadian Tire, at least at regular price, RP is priced right between M1 and M1 EP. That makes some sort of rational sense, and would work if anyone were nuts enough to buy oil there at regular price. When they had Red Line, they simply priced it through the roof, and got rid of it on clearance because it wouldn't move. $20 a litre oil several years ago here simply didn't fly. The only place to get it now, aside from online, is speed shops, and that costs even more. Now, if they got some of their drive line fluids and the like out there a little more, I can see that. I could justify spending a little extra there. I used Red Line SI-1 because it's a good product and I can get it at a decent price. It competes favourably by price against Regane for me.
 
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Yup, it's all about special needs vs street engines. If your motor runs below 4,000 RPM 98% of the time - no need. Maybe the "tick guys" can use it to their advantage... But if you are running Top Fuel, or even blown alcohol, you best believe you need it. One pass and 30% or more fuel dilution. There are very few oils that will still adequately lube a screaming engine with that much fuel in the crankcase ... Yup, Motul 300V and a few others do as well, cost as much (no free lunch), and are just as hard to find on the shelf ... As shown above, when needed - you bet. Any diff making passes at the strip should be stuffed with Shockproof. Any manual tranny circling the track should be filled with MTL. High temp auxiliary systems, gotta do it. But a Buick V6 going to get groceries - nope ... And there are no "clones". Alternatives, yes. Actual clones, no ... There is no "other" Shockproof, etc.
 
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Hey burla you're back. Where have you been, you were gone over a month. Good to see you're right back at it out of the gate with your first post.
 
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I tried the Redline 5w-20 and Royal Purple filter for my Hemi tick. After several hundred miles, mine does seem quieter, but the tick is still there. I am thinking mine is more of an exhaust stud broken off as I can push down on the exhaust manifold shield and the tick quits and goes away after 20 seconds. Not to knock Burla in anyway...if anything, I am running a good oil and filter combo.
 
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I've used Redline Oil in personal vehicles, and a lot in racing vehicles I've worked/ consulted on. And Motul 300V 4T in the bikes. They only are used if they have shown a benefit over other alternatives. I too wonder what a Redline oil clone is.
 
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Originally Posted by Shannow
I'm getting sick of dumb adds being looked at as having scientific founding...they've dumbed any "facts" that they were trying to portray so far down the dumb scale is to make them plain silly. Oil molecules bumping into each other, adding oxygen to esters...for example More racers worldwide use it...more than ALL the other oils combined, more than each of the other brands individually ? open ended claim. They were particularly sneaky in using the VII free 5W30 to pain a picture which is certainly not true for other grades (e.g. the 5W50 with a VI of 186 is certainly NOT VII free). BTW, before being labelled a hater, like the other threads... It's good oil, I like it, I have a case of it for the driveline in the Colorado (would have been those Amsoil easy packs but we don't get them in Oz, so went Redline)
Most advertisements in the States are written on a 6th grade level. [My opinion, no disrespect to OP] (Rule 1: Keep it Simple) From a marketing perspective, nice graphics for the average consumer. Although; I do like Redline oil and it has it's application. Not for everyone and expen$ive. Cost benefit analysis should be considered.
 

burla

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Originally Posted by 02SE
I've used Redline Oil in personal vehicles, and a lot in racing vehicles I've worked/ consulted on. And Motul 300V 4T in the bikes. They only are used if they have shown a benefit over other alternatives. I too wonder what a Redline oil clone is.
One that has base oils with the "great" features of the PAO/Esters base oils as stated in the correctly labeled "advertisement". I know one or two oil guys do appreciate what those bases can accomplish. I do believe the advertisement differentiates from heavy use vii's or not, as in less vii's are needed with pao/ester based oils. As in if you watch the advertisement you see pao's function very similarly to vii's but are more stable. PAO's branch chain lubrication, vi's branch chain lubrication. From my conversation with dave from redline, 5w20 and 10w30 are the redline oils w/o vii's. Oddly enough they use different base oils from 5w30 and 10w30, note the hths, and subsequently 5w30 is much better at killing ticks. My truck was butter smooth going on 5 years with 5w20 and 5w30 redline, but caught a tick with 10w30, go figure. Same thing holds true for 10w40 and 5w40 redline, again the 5w40 operates at a higher viscosity then the 10w40 by 1/2 a point or so. So if you are hunting for a tick killing oil, note that information as other folks are having similar results. Bottom line, there is a scientific reason why folks vehicles are running smoother on redline, and the advertisement really shows it. This is new information spelled out or I wouldn't have posted it. It doesn't have to be a race engine to benefit from this formula, with the main goal of manufacturers as being increased fuel mileage, many people would see a benefit in running this type f oil. Stable base oils with LESS vii use, and an oil company that stands by these base oils. And this just covers the base oils, there is a moly test on this very forum that showed the most beneficial level of moly to be near 700ppm, and that is the same moly as in redline tested along with 1,000 ppm zinc, again the apprx PPM of redline's zinc level. And it revealed the zinc and moly compete for the surface, the moly wins, and the zinc becomes a secondary plate. This is shown in the moly post in this forum within the last couple pages. Redline currently is around 550ppm moly, so it is right in that range of being the most beneficial moly level along side of the most beneficial zinc level, according to the science of someone else's post.
 
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PAO/Esters, all this BS, yet when they wanted to get approval from Euro manufacturers they cooked some mediocre Group III oil and blamed it on BMW requirements. Interestingly, Motul and Castrol do not have problem cooking BMW LL01 or LL04 (specification that Redline claims BMW is REQUIRING majority Group III base) that is majority PAO and Ester.
 
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