Why so short OCI with synthetic oils ?

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turbosludger!
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And oil doesn't clean.




wow. when did that happen?
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Just pointing out that in my car, an 01 Saab 9-5, poor PCV construction (the sixth update has just been released) doesn't allow you to go safely much beyond 5k miles with synthetic. Even in a normal vehicle, I've yet to see conclusive proof of synthetic "cleaning" anything. Maintaining cleanliness, yes..




all motor oils clean period. synthetic or not. hence there being a detergent in it.
 
Car manufactures care about customer satisfactions and about their cars long term reliability. Honda is one example, their used cars retain high re-sale values because most people think that Honda engine is very dependable, and Honda recommends OCI with conventional oil for most cars (except S2000) of 10k miles. Synthetic oils in a Honda engine lasted a lot longer than that.

Oil companies and oil change places like Jiffy-lube want you to believe that 3k miles oil change is good for your cars, because it is in their interest to make more money if you change oil more often then needed.

If I use conventional oils in my cars, I would do oil change at 70-80% of car manufacture recommendation interval. If I use synthetic oils, I would at the very least change it at the recommendation interval and may be more.
 
All I know is when I use A1 synth. oils they get as dirty as any other oil not to mention consumption as well necessitating their changing out just like a conventional oil (too frequently).

However, A3 synth.'s allow for the 10k OCI's you refer to by staying visibly cleaner during the interval (my guess is because they seal better).

Since, most use Mobil 1 5w30, the first paragraph above applies.
 
Well, I've been using dino since the Home Despot sales in the summer, 3-5K and the stuff never got dirty. An M1 OCI I did for a full 7500 came out barely darker than the day it went in. So yeah, I'd say the short OCI in this car is probably a waste, but who knows? For sure, however, I'm running syn in the winter after my little freezer experiment. The Castrol GC seems to stay nice and loose at 0 degrees, so I went ahead and changed to the 0W30 GC before my trip up here to Bahstahn. This oil will stay in until it goes into the dealer for 30K service. Has 23,600 right now, only bought it in Feb. 2006 after all. By the direction of the long OCI crowd, I should only have changed the oil for the third time at this point. With full syn, maybe.. But not dino.. That said, in warmer weather, spring through fall, at the Home Depot prices, buck a quart with a new PureOne every other OCI, I'll be happy to do a 3-5K OCI with SM dino. Why not?

The syn prices are obscene, and I'm waiting for someone to allow as to whether it's more expensive proportionate to purchase price to manufacture GroupIII synthetic.. Five times the price for synthetic over dino makes less and less sense. ESPECIALLY in a low-HP Hyundai 4-banger..
 
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I'd rethink your position on filters. They are designed to last beyond the manufacturer's recommended OCI. I'd say it depends on how long it takes you to accumulate 5k determines if it's a sensible (as in required) OCI/FCI.




I don't doubt that they do last, but have seen pix of some that failed at 3,000 miles plus, good and bad filters. I change at 5,000 miles just because it's easy to remember and seems thats the norm with a lot of people I know other than internet life. I cannot remember where I saw the filters fail, but have seen it.
 
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turbosludger!
cool.gif


And oil doesn't clean.




wow. when did that happen?
crazy.gif





Just pointing out that in my car, an 01 Saab 9-5, poor PCV construction (the sixth update has just been released) doesn't allow you to go safely much beyond 5k miles with synthetic. Even in a normal vehicle, I've yet to see conclusive proof of synthetic "cleaning" anything. Maintaining cleanliness, yes..




all motor oils clean period. synthetic or not. hence there being a detergent in it.




Let me guess. I bet you think an HDEO would clean things RIGHT up!
cool.gif



From the BITOG Glossary:

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detergent oil

Is a lubricating oil possessing special sludge-dispersing properties usually conferred on the oil by the incorporation of special additives. Detergent oils hold formed sludge particles in suspension and thus promote cleanliness especially in internal-combustion engines. However detergent oils do not contain "detergents" such as those used for cleaning of laundry or dishes. Also detergent oils do not clean already "dirty" engines, but rather keep in suspension the sludge that petroleum oil forms so that the engine remains cleaner for longer period. The formed sludge particles are either filtered out by Oil Filters or drained out when oil is changed.




Period. I invite you to clean up a sludger with just motor oil.
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You know what, synthetic oil remind of ASTROTURF,with the advent of group II & II+ BASE oil in modern PCMO.The average driver is well served.Unless you drive in Siberia or Antartica.
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Quote:


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Quote:


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turbosludger!
cool.gif


And oil doesn't clean.




wow. when did that happen?
crazy.gif





Just pointing out that in my car, an 01 Saab 9-5, poor PCV construction (the sixth update has just been released) doesn't allow you to go safely much beyond 5k miles with synthetic. Even in a normal vehicle, I've yet to see conclusive proof of synthetic "cleaning" anything. Maintaining cleanliness, yes..




all motor oils clean period. synthetic or not. hence there being a detergent in it.




Let me guess. I bet you think an HDEO would clean things RIGHT up!
cool.gif



From the BITOG Glossary:

Quote:


detergent oil

Is a lubricating oil possessing special sludge-dispersing properties usually conferred on the oil by the incorporation of special additives. Detergent oils hold formed sludge particles in suspension and thus promote cleanliness especially in internal-combustion engines. However detergent oils do not contain "detergents" such as those used for cleaning of laundry or dishes. Also detergent oils do not clean already "dirty" engines, but rather keep in suspension the sludge that petroleum oil forms so that the engine remains cleaner for longer period. The formed sludge particles are either filtered out by Oil Filters or drained out when oil is changed.




Period. I invite you to clean up a sludger with just motor oil.
crushedcar.gif





perhaps you need it stated in simple terms. the oil takes teh bad dirt that accumulates and helps to prevent it from a)building up and b) causing damage. it may not get all of the dirt. it may not remove the previously deposited dirt. but it does stop new dirt from building up. hence the cleaning. long live the canadian educational system.
canada.gif
 
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Quote:


Quote:


Quote:


Quote:


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turbosludger!
cool.gif


And oil doesn't clean.




wow. when did that happen?
crazy.gif





Just pointing out that in my car, an 01 Saab 9-5, poor PCV construction (the sixth update has just been released) doesn't allow you to go safely much beyond 5k miles with synthetic. Even in a normal vehicle, I've yet to see conclusive proof of synthetic "cleaning" anything. Maintaining cleanliness, yes..




all motor oils clean period. synthetic or not. hence there being a detergent in it.




Let me guess. I bet you think an HDEO would clean things RIGHT up!
cool.gif



From the BITOG Glossary:

Quote:


detergent oil

Is a lubricating oil possessing special sludge-dispersing properties usually conferred on the oil by the incorporation of special additives. Detergent oils hold formed sludge particles in suspension and thus promote cleanliness especially in internal-combustion engines. However detergent oils do not contain "detergents" such as those used for cleaning of laundry or dishes. Also detergent oils do not clean already "dirty" engines, but rather keep in suspension the sludge that petroleum oil forms so that the engine remains cleaner for longer period. The formed sludge particles are either filtered out by Oil Filters or drained out when oil is changed.




Period. I invite you to clean up a sludger with just motor oil.
crushedcar.gif





perhaps you need it stated in simple terms. the oil takes teh bad dirt that accumulates and helps to prevent it from a)building up and b) causing damage. it may not get all of the dirt. it may not remove the previously deposited dirt. but it does stop new dirt from building up. hence the cleaning. long live the canadian educational system.
canada.gif





Then perhaps the graduates of the Canadian educational system need a lesson in reading comprehension as I said in my original post:

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Even in a normal vehicle, I've yet to see conclusive proof of synthetic "cleaning" anything. Maintaining cleanliness, yes..




What you've stated in your most recent post is exactly what I stated in my first, which you seemed to have a problem with....
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...and I've yet to find dirt in my engine.
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It looks like a majority of member here have fairly short OCI of less than 10k miles with synthetic oils. Some OCI with synthetic oils is as little as 5k miles. Why bother using expensive synthetic oils with short OCI ? Most brand names conventional oil such as Havoline, Chevron Supreme ... are more than good at 5k miles OCI for a lot less $.

I am using Mobil 1 0W-40 in '00 E430 because it is recommended by Mercedes Benz and the OCI is 1 year or 12-13k miles. The other cars using Mobil 1 are 1994 Lexus LS400 with OCI of 1 year or 13-15k miles, and 2004 Honda S2000 with OCI of 1 year at fairly low miles at about 6k of more than 90% city and short drive of less than 4 miles each.




Because my car is turbocharged. Dino tends to coke in the oil feed line to the turbo, in the turbo itself or the oil return line. This will ruin it. A turbo is $600.

turbos are also hard on the oil itself in general, because of the high tempurates.

I drove short trips; 3 mile trips, 4 times per day, with about 4 hours between each trip. Unburnt fuel is getting into my oil because of this, therefore I have to change it more often.

THat's why I use synthetic, but change it frequently. I am currently running Castrol Syntec 10W30, which is $21 per oil change if you buy the 5 quart jug at walmart.

That's $15 less then a dino change at some quicklube place.
 
And the quicklube would be cheap conventional oil I could buy for $.59/quart (and they charge $35 with tax).
 
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One has to look at this with some sense. You own a Mercedes and Honda S2000 you even give a blink about a few dollars difference with synthetics? Heck most cars cost more than a few thousand dollars so why even a concern over the price difference? Makes no sense to me. If you want to use dino (very good stuff especially at lower OCI's as we all know) good for you. Why even waste a breath about someone wanting what they feel is best for their car/situation...Vver a few bucks a qt? Come on....

It would be like someone asking you why you are wasting all that money on costly Mercedes and Honda sports car when a Toyota Corolla will get the transportation job done for much less? It must make sense for you.....Me? I'll take a Bimmer.....




Because he's going to trade it in 3 years for another car. People like this don't keep their cars that long, so why should they care? Why should they even waste their time here? lol
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hey there! i also have a 97 MB E420, 2003 Honda S2000 and a 00 Honda CRV.

In the S2000, I put in Mobil 1 Extended Performance 15000 full synthetic, and drove for about 10k miles in 15 months. When I drained that oil, it had the nastiest smell ever, and it was really thick. I freaked and swore i'd never do that again..



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same reason i swore i would never use Mobil 1 Extended Performance again and never use oil for over 5k. The same thing happened to me.




What does smell have to do with anything? It's just the additives, and if Mobil 1 Extended Performance smells worse than other oils, i'd assume that its because the EP version has higher levels of additives. Theres been a lot of talk about oil smell over the past month or two.. I just dont get it.
 
The smell of partially burnt fuel and oil because the m1 was burning in the combustion chamber and ruining the oil at the same time. ..??
 
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Because he's going to trade it in 3 years for another car. People like this don't keep their cars that long, so why should they care? Why should they even waste their time here? lol




I keep my cars for very long times. I bought '94 LS400 on July 1997 with 30k miles and it has 170k miles now. This LS400 has 1 year/12-15k miles OCI with Mobil 1 since 1997. So far there is no oil related problems other than it consumes about 1/2 quarts every 2k miles. I may change to thicker grade likes 5W-40. Or I may change to conventional oil 10w30 such as Chevron Supreme with 7.5k miles OCI.

'00 E430 bought new on 04-2000, it has 80k miles now. The first 4 years OCI's were done at dealer for free with Mobil 1. I did the last 2 OCI's at home with Mobil 1. The average OCI is 1 year/12k miles as recommended by MB. So far I never have to add any drop of oil between oil changes. I think I may keep this car for many more years.

Honda S2000 is only 3 years old and 18k miles. I intend to keep this car for many years.

If a Honda with 10k miles OCI using conventional oil and UOA is this good, why change synthetic oils at 5k miles or less ?
http://theoildrop.server101.com/forums/s...ge=0#Post732290

We know that GF4/SM oil is much better than SE, SF oils of the 70s, but the old habit of 3k miles oil change is hard to die. The general public is brainwashed by Jiffylube and the likes the motto of 3k oil change or $3k engine change. Many members of this forum still believe in that brainwash is hard to understand. Who should you trust ? car manufactures or oil change outlets ?
 
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