Why does my trunk lamp have a diode feeding the bulb, can I eliminate it?

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2016 Hyundai Elantra GT, the luggage lamp does not work so I remove it and the bulb is good. Power goes to it but it passes through a small diode. If I bypass the diode, it works. My multi meter set to resistance indicates infinite resistance both directions through the diode. Any idea why it's there? Possible problems if I by pass the diode?
 
There's minimal induction from a mere bulb, probably some issue with back feeding another circuit.

I agree, replace the diode. Get a low loss schottky rated 16V or higher, and try to avoid generics on amazon or ebay, etc as they may be counterfeit with a smaller than rated die in them. An electronics supply house like Digikey.ca should have something suitable, probably cost 5X the cost of the diode for postage. I'd grossly overshoot the current (wattage/12V) rating of the bulb since a much higher rated diode tends to have trivial cost increase, like $1.

Resistance measurement through a diode? You might get a few MOhms in one direction but most multimeters have a diode measurement feature where it will read over/out of limit (no connection) one direction and with probes polarity reversed, measure the forward voltage drop of the diode which is typically a few tenths of a volt, IF the diode is good.

Is it a standard axial lead diode or something fancier? If axial, failing further info, this looks like a good option. I mean way overkill ratings but that's fine if the larger size fits in the available space:

 
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Are you sure it is a diode? just seems odd. I might have guessed a voltage dropping resistor, maybe they got a killer deal on 6V bulbs.

Maybe there are two switches to feed this lamp, one with the doors and one to just flip this on, I guess.

I can’t see this being anything critical. I’d pop in any 1N400x diode. Schotkey is lower drop but I’d use whatever is in the junkbox at the top.
 
The diode is marked VF2 IN400. It's black with one grey band at one end. Haven't got a price from the local dealer as they are closed and the
nearby salvage yard doesn't not have this model car in their inventory. I'm electronically stupid. I suppose this diode has a wattage rating? There are a few computer repair places around here so maybe I'll try them.
 
The diode is marked VF2 IN400. It's black with one grey band at one end. Haven't got a price from the local dealer as they are closed and the
nearby salvage yard doesn't not have this model car in their inventory. I'm electronically stupid. I suppose this diode has a wattage rating? There are a few computer repair places around here so maybe I'll try them.
IN400 on 1N400? still missing a last digit, quick look is not finding any 400 diode. VF2 is likely a vendor name of some sort.

Can you post a pic?

Not sure a computer repair shop can help, but no harm in asking. Might just have to ebay this part.
 
I do computer repairs at the discrete component level, but practically no "computer shops" do this kind of work so I wouldn't expect them to have diodes lying around, unless someone is cannibalizing them out of PSU and that's definitely an option as a donor but they are probably throwing old PSU away, not harvesting parts out.

Diodes have several specs but not a direct wattage rating (except see subsequent posts below, I was ignoring zener diodes). They are basically rated for max voltage, max continuous current (which reflects how much they heat up, and whether there is a heatsink for types that can mount to one) and other parameters that shouldn't affect your application. There is the forward voltage drop, where a lower spec there might give you... hard to guesstimate, maybe 20% more light out of the bulb and that % could be off by quite a bit.

The thing is, you can way overshoot these minimums for pennies and have a more reliable diode than if replaced with the OEM part that failed.

A 1N400 should be a 1 amp diode. The missing # on the end is usually the voltage rating but any in that 1N400 series would be well above the circuit voltage, unless there really is some electric motor on the same circuit producing large spikes. See what else is on the same fused circuit but this is probably overthinking things when they used a cheap jellybean part that failed.
 
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I do computer repairs at the discrete component level, but practically no "computer shops" do this kind of work so I wouldn't expect them to have diodes lying around, unless someone is cannibalizing them out of PSU and that's definitely an option as a donor but they are probably throwing old PSU away, not harvesting parts out.

Diodes have several specs but not a direct wattage rating. They are basically rated for max voltage, max continuous current (which reflects how much they heat up, and whether there is a heatsink for types that can mount to one) and other parameters that shouldn't affect your application.

The thing is, you can way overshoot these minimums for pennies and have a more reliable diode than if replaced with the OEM part that failed.

A 1N400 should be a 1 amp diode. The missing # on the end is usually the voltage rating but any in that 1N400 series would be well above the circuit voltage, unless there really is some electric motor on the same circuit producing large spikes. See what else is on the same fused circuit but this is probably overthinking things when they used a cheap jellybean part that failed.
Exception is Zener diodes, which have a wattage rating.
 
I'm sure it's not just a simple light circuit, it's controlled by some lighting module on a CAN bus.
 
It's an incandescent bulb festoon 8 watt. It would shut off on it's own to prevent battery drain, so I guess it's somewhat computer controlled. I cannot find any digits after IN400. I'll have to wait until after new years to find parts. Unless I cannibalize some old piece of electronics I have laying around. No rush but interesting.
 
The body control module should be controlling the light, somehow (microprocessor or even a dedicated chip). No idea what this diode is. Backfeed protection, voltage dropping... I've seen current limiting diodes but they require a couple volts or so to work, so it wouldn't be a 12V bulb anymore.
 
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Can't read the lamp, not sure what it is, but that sure looks like a series diode to me, and I dare say, it's a 1N4001. Searching "festoon 8 watt" like you indicated shows the lamp.

In this application I'd find it hard to believe it got damaged, I'd more more thinking of a bad spot weld or similar. But hey, anything can happen. Why they would have a series diode this lamp is beyond me... 8W at 14V is around 0.5A, closing in on 0.8V I bet as it heats up. Dropping a bit of voltage so as to make the bulb last longer? lower voltage to an incandescent allows it to last longer. I wonder if the controlling circuit has a bit of drop, and then they added this diode, so as to allow a 12V bulb to last that much longer in a car where battery voltage is always above 12V?

My guess? if you short the diode out, you'll get a brighter light that doesn't last as long. Just my swag.
 
I put a VOM on resistance and connect the meter to both ends of the diode, diode side of the spot welds and get infinite resistance in both directions. A 12 bulb will not light trying to pass voltage through this diode, again just touching the leads not the spot welds. Both directions.
Some thoughts. This is for the trunk, could this diode be for preventing the interior dome lights from lighting when I open the trunk?
Last year I replaced the back up lamps with LEDs, related?
If I replace the festoon s 8w bulb with an LED bulb and eliminate this diode, does the led act as a diode allowing current only one way? Solving this problem?
 
What VOM do you have? You need to put it into diode mode. A good meter should not make enough voltage to turn on a diode in resistance mode.

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