Why do transmissions fail after changing the fluid?

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I got and email from a friend who didn't make it back from his trip.

He had is transmission serviced, then hooked up the 16' fishing boat and headed up north in a Bravada with 90k miles.

On the way back he smelled something burning and noticed the tach was at 4k instead of 2k. You know the rest of the story, they put his SUV on a flat bed and towed the boat behind the truck all the way back home.

Does it seem that transmissons seem to go more often ofter you change out the fluid?
 
i bet its the luck. though if a company puts the wrong fluid in then it is a higher risk of breaking down. dont say that man, i just changed my fluid haha. i smelt burning before, changed the fluid and added auto rx and now its fine.
 
I had this happen to me. I changed the tranny fluid in my dad's '68 Ply Valient, at the time the car had around 250K miles on it without a single tranny fluid change.

I changed the filter and the fluid in the pan. A week or so later the tranny started to hesitate going into gear. You would pull it into drive and it would take a few seconds for it to actually engage. A week or so after that, it started slipping. I pulled the pan and the filter was completly clogged up.

The detergents in the new oil cleaned up and it all went to the filter. Took two or three more filter changes before it was right again.
 
Read this

A friend who is a Dealer tech told me they have seen some similar trans failures since the quick lube place started doing these filter flushes. Someone will come in with a trans problem and say they had the fluid changed at the quick lube place recently.


Transmission Fluid Evacuation Service


There has been a recent trend toward use of fluid evacuation systems in the automatic transmission service industry in lieu of traditional transmission service methods. These systems are used to pump the old fluid out of the transmission and to refill with fresh fluid. This avoids dropping the pan and draining the unit which can be time consuming and messy. The use of this method to replace the transmission fluid is a clean, efficient, and safe way to remove hot oil from a transmission. The problem, however, is that often times it is mistakenly thought that this represents complete transmission service and that removal, and cleaning of the pan and inspection and servicing of the filter are unnecessary.

Some people believe that all transmission filters are backflushed clean every time the vehicle is turned off. This is a major misconception. Three-quarters of all transmission filters today are not a simple screen, they are made of felt. A felt filter CANNOT be backflushed. Felt holds dirt particles within tiny pores in the felt. It will not wash out or flush out. If a felt filter becomes clogged it must be replaced. Clogged filters restrict fluid flow, which lowers pressure to clutches and bands. This can cause slippage and eventual burnout of the transmission.

Service manuals and textbooks on transmission service recommend that a transmission filter be inspected and replaced, if necessary, as often as every 15,000 miles (24,140km), for severe service such as city driving, desert (hot dusty) driving, extreme cold, frequent short trips, trailer towing, and delivery service. In normal operating conditions the manuals recommend to inspect and replace the filter at least every 30,000 miles (48,280km). Even the newer vehicles with 100,000 mile (160,934km) drive train service warranties, the manufacturer recommends filter replacement if the vehicle sees severe service conditions.

There have been an increasing number of instances surfacing recently regarding transmission failures shortly after an evacuation service, without filter removal. At the time of a fluid evacuation service, there is no way to know the condition of the filter and how clogged it may be. The filters job is to collect and hold contaminants, (dirt, metal filings, friction particles, etc.), and prevent these particles from causing malfunction in such components as electronic force motors and solenoids. Today's transmissions are far more susceptible to malfunctions caused by fine dirt contamination. Without servicing the filter, there is no way to know if the filter is clean of debris or nearing capacity. If the filter is nearing capacity, transmission failure may not be far off. This is also a sign that there may be other internal problems in the transmission. Recognizing these warning signs could eliminate major service later.

Most of the transmission failures after an evacuation service have occurred primarily on relatively high mileage transmissions that have not been serviced in some time. One reason for this is that the sludge and dirt buildup within the transmission will not completely be removed during the service. When the new fluid (which has detergent properties) is placed in the transmission, over days and weeks, the internal components begin to wash the insides of the transmission.

This sludge does finally work loose and settles in the transmission filter, clogging it up even further than it may have been before service. In these extreme cases, where service has not been performed in some time, changing the filter may not completely fix the problem. Some mechanics recommend a second service a few weeks after the first, replacing the filter again, which may be partially clogged due to the cleaning process in the transmission.

Even if the fluid evacuation method is desired to remove the used transmission fluid, the pan should be removed also, and an inspection should be made of the pan contents, fluid, and filter to determine the condition of the transmission. Aluminum filings in the pan or iron filings on the pan magnet are signs of internal wear and may give light to potential problems in the transmission. Transmission service is performed for preventative maintenance. Evaluating the overall condition of the transmission by removing the pan should be part of this preventative maintenance also.

The Filter Manufacturers Council urges everyone to dispose of all used filters properly.

[ June 04, 2003, 11:30 AM: Message edited by: rugerman1 ]
 
If its a tranny that hasn't had regular service, then the new fluids detergency can move a lot of the "junk" that has built up in the tranny until it clogs something. Also if fluid levels weren't returned to the proper levels, then poof!
 
Even if the fluid evacuation method is desired to remove the used transmission fluid, the pan should be removed also, and an inspection should be made of the pan contents, fluid, and filter to determine the condition of the transmission.

That is EXACTLY what i have been saying on here for months now.

If you do an ATF Exchaneg any honest common sensed shop will AUTOMATICALLY do a Pan cleaning/inspection/new gasket and Filter service.

If you go to a shop for a T-Tech, BG Flush or what not make sure you couph up the extra $$ for the pan service.

As far as the ATF liberating all the nasties...perhaps Auto-RX Trans-medic needs to go mainstream and use that 1000miles or so before the flush. ?
 
Part of the reason for the trouble is that most shops sell a harsh solvent flush as part of the flush service. This solvent will loosen additional sludge and particles, then, on transmissions with a filter in the sump, the junk helps clog an already dirty filter.

If your transmission only has a screen the chance of a problem is lessened.

So, I guess the answer is not to avoid flushes but to do them right. If you're not flushing the transmission regularly and you have a filter, be sure to drop the pan and change the filter, then flush. If you don't have an in-sump filter and it's been a long time between flushes, also drop the pan.


Ken
 
I've had nothing but positive feedback from my tranny since changing the fluid, but I also changed the filter at the same time and cleaned the bottom of the pan and magnets.

The poor car had never had its AT serviced in 90K miles (my wife's car since before we'd met), so it's no wonder it shifts better!
 
Mike,

A friend just had this exact thing happen to his very high mileage, 1992 Camry. These have a drain plug on the pan and the local dealer just does a drain and fill and never services the filter. Drove the car home from the dealer and within 20 miles the transmission was slipping. I knew right away what happened and even printed out a copy of this tech brief, which I've had on file for about six months. Service manager would not even read it and said the transmission simply wore out and he should be happy to get 200k miles out of it. They offered to install a transmission from a salvaged Camry for $1200.00 and made it sould like they were making him a deal, vs the $3700.00 quoted price for a new unit!

This transmission had been serviced @ 175k/125k/40k miles, but who knows if they ever dropped the pan and changed the filter??? Claimed that toyota corporate only calls for the drain and fill. I'm sure this filter was pretty clogged prior to the service and the transmission would have failed within the next year or two at any rate.

So you save a hours labor, plus about $20.00 for a filter and new pan gasket - what a deal!
frown.gif


TooSlick
 
quote:

These have a drain plug on the pan and the local dealer just does a drain and fill and never services the filter.

Another thread addressed "Why don't trans pans have drain plugs?" There you go....

200K ain't bad though. The dealer could have a point.. The clutches are going to wear out at some point. They are lined with friction materials like the brake shoes.
 
Most problems that I've seen is when the customer is having a transmission issue and falsely believes that a flush will fix it. If the tranny is about to fail or fails, don't blame the fluid. Its always customer abuse or lack of regular maintenance that kills it.

Maintenance intervals needs to be more frequent.
 
quote:

Originally posted by TooSlick:
Mike,

A friend just had this exact thing happen to his very high mileage, 1992 Camry. These have a drain plug on the pan and the local dealer just does a drain and fill and never services the filter.
...
TooSlick


Do those Toyotas have a filter in the sump or just a screen?...I think it's a screen.


Ken
 
i was recently talking to a friend about a problem that my auto tranny was having. he identified the problem pretty quickly then told me "whatever you do don't change the fluid, it'll make it worse." he said when ATs have alot of miles on them and they start to have problems for some reason new fluid tends to make it worse.
i trust his opinion, he has 40+ years in the business and has been a service manager at almost every make of car.
 
quote:

Originally posted by tom slick:
i was recently talking to a friend about a problem that my auto tranny was having. he identified the problem pretty quickly then told me "whatever you do don't change the fluid, it'll make it worse." he said when ATs have alot of miles on them and they start to have problems for some reason new fluid tends to make it worse.
i trust his opinion, he has 40+ years in the business and has been a service manager at almost every make of car.


Agreed, that's the common wisdom.

There are postings of Auto-Rx and Neutra fixing some transmission problems, and other postings of problems where only a transmission transplant fixed things. I'd still do an Auto-Rx or Schaeffer Neutra routine, new filter, and complete flush before I gave up on a sticky transmission.


Ken
 
i think the "don't change your fluid" idea comes from transmission that slip. changing to new oil can cause them to slip more. if the problem is sticking fresh fluid and an additive makes sense.
 
There is only one reason these quick lube places offer ATF flushing, $$$$$$$. 99% of them don't know anything about a transmission. IMO you are taking a risk letting these people flush your trans. One shop I know here, the combined experience of the people working there is 5 yrs, they turn over people on a weekly basis. It all sales hype. In over 40 yrs of driving I have only flushed to AT and that was because I wanted synthetic in there and no other reason. Both times I had a trans shop do the work and never had a problem. I think you would be better off leaving it as is then have a quick lube place flush it. Just my opinion but look at most of these places, little or no experience at anything but pushing product and services.
 
I think the moral of this story is to service the transmission regularly, so it never has high mileage between services...

[ June 09, 2003, 12:44 PM: Message edited by: VaderSS ]
 
Don't forget that the torque coverter acts as a big centrifuge and the accummulated debris from nomal usage, over time, can be tightly packed onto the periphery of the converter. Anything that causes this hard pack of sediment to loosen up is going to kill the transmission. That's why solvent treatments and flushes can cause a transmission to fail that otherwise might have gone quite a bit further without problems. If the vehicle is high mileage and/or has not been serviced regularly, don't do anything more involved than a pan drop fluid/filter change. In fact that's all thats ever really necessary unless the vehicle has been used off-road and submerged or other non-normal application.
cheers.gif
 
Drain plugs rock!! Fluid and filter changes do not need to travel the same road. With a drain plug you might consider changeing your fluid every 15,000 and your wilter every 30,000 instaed of cahngeing them both every 30,000. WIth a drain plug you make less mess removeing the pan. SOme vechiles do not have serviceable filters. My Mothers Tundra does not have a serviceable filter. It uses a screen that back flushs into a trap that looks similar to what gold miner used to trap the gold dust from a river. If all you need to do to service is drain and refill it would silly to drop the pan. If you bracket race you will normaly drain and refill after the trany after 5 pass's. I used to change my trany fluid every 3000 miles on my hot rod but only did the filter once a year. Plugs are fine lazy or ignorant people are the problem. THe owners manual spell out all the required maintence and it is the owners job to see that it is carried out.
 
I was discussing this with a long time well respected trans man I have known for 30 yrs. He is retired (early) now and his sons run the business.

As he was saying a lot of the places don't flush them correctly. He says the correct way would be to flush the trans and install the new fluid. THEN drop the pan, inspect for evidence of metal filings in the bottom of the pan and the condition of the ATF. Never install the filter first. If any debris is found in the bottom of the pan, you trans is getting worn out and may need work soon. Install a new filter, gasket and top off the fluid. Recheck the fluid again in 1 day, top off or reduce if necessary. Do not overfill under any circumstances.

btw-This guys has a brother-in-law owns a quick lube place. I asked him how many trans did he fix that this shop flushed. He would not say anything other than, oh every once in a while he would send us a customer or two for a new engine or trans? I know one lady who got a new engine in her Lumina, they forgot to install the oil. Guess how far a 3.1 Lumina can go without oil? About 5 miles before it freezes up.
 
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