My Model Y Long Range AWD is said to be 4400 pounds. Lots of ICE SUVs are much heavier.
Why do some cars just "eat" tires?
- Thread starter Rust_Belt_Pete
- Start date
And BMW sedans are not exactly skinny either.
- Joined
- Dec 30, 2024
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- 96
I run the same tires. They are amazing. They are the best street tire available and best for track days. They stick like glue, soak up bumps, are perfectly round for 100 mph plus and the sidewalls make them as predictable going sideways as they are going straight. To make them so good they have to make them soft. Your Mach 1 is sold as a “track ready” car and probably came with those soft tires. It also came with alignment specs that make it handle high g-force turns. Ask them to align it (camber) with the regular mustang alignment specs and buy a good but cheaper tire that will last. Be carful because going from a race car alignment with track ready tires to consumer **** can bite you. Back in the day I went from Goodyear Gator Backs to be a BFG TA’s and I almost crashed that car in every turn on the first day. Your car is sold to be a play car/track car. It is up to you to set it up as a street car if that is what you do with it. Do not feel bad because 8000 miles on those tires is par. My car is a lot lighter and has less HP and I’m delighted if I get 10,000 out of them. I have heard of people getting 12 or 15k miles out of them but they must drive until they are bald. I drive relatively sane as well with a few mild canyon runs here and there.
Rubber composition, Tire design, Vehicle set up, Weigh balance, Driving style, Load range differnces of tires vs need. AWD vs 4wd vs front wheel drive vs rear wheel drive.
Have a 2008 Subaru and have used various tire brands. Cooper, Michelins, dunlops all seasons wear like steel Toyo Kumho, Firestone, Good year not so much. You ask someone else and it will be differant. I found factory speced Dunlops went almost 80000miles on a old 1985 Toyota Hi lux Diesel I bought new. This thing had perfect wear and a strong suspension set-up. Then (being young and foolish) I bought new rims and GoodYear Eagle GT tires. At less than 20000 miles they were junk. Also they were nail and screw magnets. I assume because the rubber was so so soft. Needless to say it was not horsepower here LOL. Bearly 65. Always rotated. every 6 months. I went back to Dunlops 35000 miles before she sold. The brand thing I stated may be a bit of a overstatement.
Have a 2008 Subaru and have used various tire brands. Cooper, Michelins, dunlops all seasons wear like steel Toyo Kumho, Firestone, Good year not so much. You ask someone else and it will be differant. I found factory speced Dunlops went almost 80000miles on a old 1985 Toyota Hi lux Diesel I bought new. This thing had perfect wear and a strong suspension set-up. Then (being young and foolish) I bought new rims and GoodYear Eagle GT tires. At less than 20000 miles they were junk. Also they were nail and screw magnets. I assume because the rubber was so so soft. Needless to say it was not horsepower here LOL. Bearly 65. Always rotated. every 6 months. I went back to Dunlops 35000 miles before she sold. The brand thing I stated may be a bit of a overstatement.
Years ago I bought my son a new 2003 ford focus to commute to college with. It quickly became a tire eater even when "within spec" for alignment. We eventually learned that "within spec" meant nothing with regards to minimizing tire wear. I joined a online Focus forum and found many members having the same issues. About 4 or five of us took this issue on. We all had the same year and model. We agreed that the alignment specs were too broad and some combinations just didn't work. We each agree to try combinations of different settings. It took some time but we zeroed in on a pretty narrow range of settings which greatly reduced tire wear. During this period, one member even found a ford dealer who was tired of dealing with tire wear complaints to help him out with free alignments. This grass roots approach really helped a lot of early Focus owners. It was actually fun and I learned a lot from the experimentation process. BTW, those early "Foci" were really fun cars to drive and great bang for the buck (they were **** cheap, got our 5 spd 2 dr hatch for 9600.00 after some great discounts....those were the days of dealer wheeling and dealing!
My Ranger is 1997, last year of TIB for the Ranger. I got about 60k miles from my last set of tires on it.
I had a '91 Ranger with twin I beam. I got great service out of tires.
I appreciate the feedback.
I kept the stock alignment because I figured that's how Ford designed the vehicle to perform. I also kept the same grade of OEM tires (summer performance) because I didn't want to lose out on the performance side. Felt penny-wise/pound-foolish to put lower-tier tires on it, but I'll admit it was tempting.
I decided to go with the Continental Extreme Contact 2 this time around. It's a direct competitor with the Michelin PS but slightly more cost effective in my case. Any differences between the tires I'm sure would be like splitting hairs. Worst case, If I don't like them, I get to switch back to the Michelins in 8,000 miles
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alignment, suspension geometry, compromise between handling and safety, weight vs footprint, etc.
I have a Mazda5 that got bad rear tire inner shoulder wear problem due to alignment in the rear being too much negative camber. It was from Mazda3 and they make it more negative. I have to use aftermarket camber arm to make it more natural to stop this. I am driving pretty conservatively so it shouldn't roll over, but I'm sure some idiots would and they would sue Mazda had they not take the idiot corner case into consideration for their camber.
I have a Mazda5 that got bad rear tire inner shoulder wear problem due to alignment in the rear being too much negative camber. It was from Mazda3 and they make it more negative. I have to use aftermarket camber arm to make it more natural to stop this. I am driving pretty conservatively so it shouldn't roll over, but I'm sure some idiots would and they would sue Mazda had they not take the idiot corner case into consideration for their camber.
Purely alignment vs. tread compound. I drive a nearly 5000# 600awhp SUV like a bat outta hell and tires are fine. 15K miles on them and 8/32 remaining, still.
Weight is a concern. As far as a passenger car goes.
Duallies for instance is a prime example of this. Most people I have know who have duallies, rarely ever get 50k out of tires.
Squareness of the axles in relationship to direction of travel is another thing.
