Who's idea was it to put the PCV valve there?

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For our '97 Nissan pickup I had to do an internet search to find it (the FSM doesn't show it). It is tucked up next to the alternator screwed into the block, accesible by taking off the passenger side wheel and the oil filter.

I wonder how often they actually get changed. I am pretty sure this was the first time at 240K miles. Check valve still worked, but was covered in crud.
 
Probably the same person that stuck the Duratec30/Mazda MZI PCV valve under the intake manifold on the back side of the engine.
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On the engine block? Wonder how would it function since it's not on the valve cover sucking up blowby gasses. Did oil come out when you remove the valve? Found some pics and it looks like it's near the oil filter.
 
You're lucky, CBR.worm. Mine is under the lower intake manifold. That took me 7 hours due to some complicating circumstances. I posted a lengthy story about it on NICOclub if someone feels like reading it.
 
Originally Posted By: Towncivilian
You're lucky, CBR.worm. Mine is under the lower intake manifold. That took me 7 hours due to some complicating circumstances. I posted a lengthy story about it on NICOclub if someone feels like reading it.


Man, that is a horror story. Wonder where mine is?
 
I came into the thread expecting a ford focus...theres a certain year range where to get access to the pcv valve and hose (that likes to tear and leak vacuum) requires pulling intake manifold among other things.
 
The PCV valve on Toyota's newer AR-series engines is also under the intake manifold. And the manifold is on the firewall side of that transverse-mounted engine. The book rate is 4-5 hours to change it I believe.
 
Mine is right smack dab on top of the engine, left valve cover. Takes 30 seconds to change.
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That's nuts though, a couple of hours for something so simple.
 
My 06 jeep V6 is very accesable on the oil filler pipe right in front of the engine, but the next year they moved it to the back of the valve cover. I think they had operational problems with them freezing up at highway speeds in sub zero weather.
 
It could be like the cyclonic oil separator/pcv octopus that lives under my BMW's intake manifold. It's got lots of plastic tubes that like to get brittle and crack, causing mysterious vacuum leaks. Or you can have problems with condensation building up, potentially causing the engine to suck up and burn all of its oil in a short period of time.

But it took me only about 4 hours to replace my failed unit this spring with the insulated version.
 
2000 Ford Taurus (DOHC) has it under the IM between the valve covers. I had to build a tool from PVC to allow me to remove it without removing the intake manifold. You still have to remove the airbox and hose.
 
My 1996 Zetec 4 has it in the front of the engine real close to the precat. So close the dealer mechanic had to cool it off with a fan for at least 30 minutes in order not to burn himself. Only reason I had it changed due to it being a Ford paid for service at 60,000 miles.

Whimsey
 
My 2003 CRV was a real pain also. I thought I would have to move the power steering pump or take out the left headlamp but I ended up getting it out with lots of swearing. At 210,000 km the oem pcv valve was still good but I replaced it anyway just to be on the safe side.
 
Originally Posted By: vortex9
My 2003 CRV was a real pain also. I thought I would have to move the power steering pump or take out the left headlamp but I ended up getting it out with lots of swearing. At 210,000 km the oem pcv valve was still good but I replaced it anyway just to be on the safe side.



Just pour some MMO into the pcv hose and all is well imho or use 8 oz in ur oil, just enough to keep it clean.
 
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