Who hijacked my post?

[Cmarti]

I had the last post on the locked thread, and stated I had limited success with seal conditioners slowing or stopping weeps in some old pieces of equipment and in a kids car. I have switched to HM oils with seal conditioners, but as an additive I though conditioners might make the short list, with limited applications.

The question I asked in that thread, is there any evidence that conditioners/hm oils cause long term damage to seals and gaskets. I have read countless posts that your seals will swell up like a blimp and burst

, but no science/conclusive evidence is ever presented that I could comprehend. Just curious, on any long term negatives to seal conditioners as an additive to motor oil.

That would remove it from my list.

 

[SuperDave456]

Modern day conditioners/high mileage oils should not hurt your seals. From what I understand the HM oils have a more robust add pack and are thicker for their particular grade. You wont find the "energy conserving" doughnut on the bottle due to it being thick for that particular grade.
Supposedly they have more cleaning agents, but I figure that is part of the add pack. Everything has "More CLEANING AGENTS!!!" these days.

The added polarity of some esters (or an additive that has more polarity than a typical engine deposit) acts as a cleaner because it can attach itself to metal parts while loosening up old deposits.

That is what you are paying a little extra money for. A more robust add pack.

Now if you have a truly old car with cork gaskets, or you have a damaged gasket, I can't help you. You will either need a mechanic or an exorcist.
But on a more modern vehicle with modern gaskets from what I have heard it does a good job. I have run a few OCI's with both Maxlife and the QS High Mileage and have not had an issue. My father has run them in his car too, no issues.

The entire "will make your gaskets explode" came from older additives and older gaskets. Bitten once twice shy. Kind of like the Pennzoil is Wax junk you hear once in awhile that wont die. You can make cork swell much more easily than the rubber coated steel gaskets they use today.

BTW, I just did a transmission service, drain pan, new filter and inline cooler with a Magnefine filter, on a 1980 Dodge Van that has been modified into a 20 passenger bus. The transmission had the original transmission gasket. Very brittle cork.
Interesting that it could last so long. The previous owner really neglected it, but that is a different story.

My oil adds are
1. VSOT (on my last bottle)
2. Schaffer's Moly EP
3. (something I don't want to get flamed for)
4. Experimenting with MMO
5. Thinking about that Lubro Moly stuff even though I can get Schaffer's Moly EP stuff CHEAP.

 

[demarpaint]

Just a heads up about the Schaffer's Moly EP. It is not really a Moly add, check a VOA. They used the word Moly for the name, it contains little to none. It actually is quite good, but not really something that boosts Moly.

 

[SuperDave456]

Yup, I know about the Schaffer's and their use of the word "Moly".
I did my research on this board before I found it.
Been looking for it, or something like it for awhile and A NAPA near where I work just started carrying it. The owner does a lot of distribution for Amsoil and Schaffer's to truckers and racing enthusiast.

 

[Not the Autorx Frank]

Originally Posted By: Mystic
It was the post about my new short list of supplements that I am willing to try. I left out Auto-RX from my old short list.


Mystic, Please don't take this as combative. You didn't "leave ARX out" You promoted the fact that you left it out. This motivates supporters to respond. If you want avoid discussing ARX then don't talk about it. It's like other activist type groups that I can't mention because I don't want the thread locked. They can't live their life without promoting their alternative lifestyle whatever it may be. Just my .02

 

[Mystic]

Well, the only reason I mentioned that I had decided to leave Auto-RX off the new list was because I KNEW that somebody would say something about it.

The supplements I mentioned have worked for me. But right now I am quite ready to drop almost all supplements competely. Other than Regane for the gas I am ready to just change oil, do general maintenance needed, and drive.

Nobody needs even the supplements I did mention. Instead of using Sta-Bil in the gas just make sure the lawnmower always has fresh gas. Better solution anyway. Drain the gas or use up the gas before the winter in the lawnmower.

Maybe using a motor oil like Pennzoil Platinum would result in some cleaning in the engine superior to what a conventional motor oil could do. Plus there are some people who try to go too far on an oil change. Maybe I am extreme changing oil at 3000 miles/3 months but I would rather be extreme that way than trying to go 10,000 miles on a conventional motor oil. Conventional motor oil is cheap! Certainly cheaper than a re-manufactured engine.

Everything wears out. There comes a time when a person has to decide whether to junk a car or truck or else get a re-manufactured engine installed.

I still toy with the idea of trying Lubegard Engine Flush. It is non-solvent and I have gotten positive results with some Lubegard products. Or if my car is still running after 150,000 miles or so maybe I will try some MMO.

But as you can see I have eliminated almost every supplement I did mention on my new list. Really, other than maybe some fuel system cleaner occasionally, who needs any of these supplements? If something happened like a power steering unit squealing in cold weather maybe I would try some Lubegard power steering supplement. It seemed to work in the past.

I pretty much agree with Johnny that nobody really needs supplements other than maybe occasional fuel system cleaner. Anybody should be able to drive a car or truck well over 100,000 miles with just proper maintenance. Except for maybe the people trying to set some kind of useless record for driving the longest on one conventional motor oil change. Or people who abuse a vehicle badly. Or unless a person just has a defective vehicle.

 

[Johnny]

I wish someone would put the smell of MMO in an after shave bottle. Now that would drive the women wild.

 

[Mystic]

Don't laugh but I actually heard that what really drives women crazy is the smell of cucumbers! There is actually a scent like that but it is expensive. Otherwise I would give it a try.

But MMO does smell nice! I try not to smell automotive chemicals but you can't help but notice the smell! Neutra has a really powerful smell too. ATF kind of makes me sick. Hoppes No. 9 doesn't bother me outside but I wouldn't use it in the house.

 

[Cmarti]

Originally Posted By: SuperDave456
Modern day conditioners/high mileage oils should not hurt your seals. From what I understand the HM oils have a more robust add pack and are thicker for their particular grade. You wont find the "energy conserving" doughnut on the bottle due to it being thick for that particular grade.
Supposedly they have more cleaning agents, but I figure that is part of the add pack. Everything has "More CLEANING AGENTS!!!" these days.

The added polarity of some esters (or an additive that has more polarity than a typical engine deposit) acts as a cleaner because it can attach itself to metal parts while loosening up old deposits.

That is what you are paying a little extra money for. A more robust add pack.

Now if you have a truly old car with cork gaskets, or you have a damaged gasket, I can't help you. You will either need a mechanic or an exorcist.
But on a more modern vehicle with modern gaskets from what I have heard it does a good job. I have run a few OCI's with both Maxlife and the QS High Mileage and have not had an issue. My father has run them in his car too, no issues.

The entire "will make your gaskets explode" came from older additives and older gaskets. Bitten once twice shy. Kind of like the Pennzoil is Wax junk you hear once in awhile that wont die. You can make cork swell much more easily than the rubber coated steel gaskets they use today.

BTW, I just did a transmission service, drain pan, new filter and inline cooler with a Magnefine filter, on a 1980 Dodge Van that has been modified into a 20 passenger bus. The transmission had the original transmission gasket. Very brittle cork.
Interesting that it could last so long. The previous owner really neglected it, but that is a different story.

My oil adds are
1. VSOT (on my last bottle)
2. Schaffer's Moly EP
3. (something I don't want to get flamed for)
4. Experimenting with MMO
5. Thinking about that Lubro Moly stuff even though I can get Schaffer's Moly EP stuff CHEAP.


Thank you

 

[Kaboomba]

u guys are pretty much right. when making a case for one product or another, we have to remember how many variables are involved in "more power" or "more MPG" or "smoother".

There is a place for passion, though. I tend to get passionate about chassis parts now that I've had the bone-chilling experience of having a ball joint seperate (causing collapse of driver's-side front suspension) while in city traffic. Nobody should have to go through that.

That said, I think that for any given car owner, there are several products that are worth trying, depending on circumstances.

The following "additives" are things that I am willing to spend some of my hard-earned money on, because they have delivered positive results, in the order I used them over the years:

1. Lubegard Red
2. Lubegard BioSyn (name? oil additive)
3. Lubegard Platinum
4. Lubegard ShudderFixx
5. Lubegard Power Steering Flush
6. Lubegard Power Steering Fluid Protectant
7. MMO (even though I resisted for years--come on, "Marvel MYSTERY Oil"???)
8. Chevron Techron

As you can see, when the first Lubegard product worked as advertised, I tried others, and now their products are my "first-stop".

Best

K

P.S. Granted, I have never owned anything new, newer than '95, older than '74, and most had 100K+ mi when I got them.

 

[Kaboomba]

P.P.S. I would also use Bars Leaks and Purple Ice again. They both work.

Best

K