Who had great success reaching high mileages with recommended (extended) service intervals?

I agree, but a few reasons wrong/detrimental with a quart every 2,000 miles. You’re in danger of ruining your catalytic converters, no? I know oil can destroy cats, but I don’t know what the amount is. And fuel economy/efficiency...too much oil getting into the cylinder will reduce the efficiency and fuel economy of your car. Spark plugs can become fouled too. I guess you could also include the cost of oil, if you’re putting 3 quarts in a 6,000 mile oil change, you’re spending $12-15 bucks on oil between actual changes (Although that’s not a lot of money in the grand scheme of things).

But yeah, I agree. I think you can keep an oil burner going for another 100,000 miles with a little effort...and it’s a lot cheaper than another car payment.
My Audi has 190,000mi+ and never had to replace the cat(s). It has consumed about 1qt every ~2500mi or so since I got it in 2010. It has never gotten any worse. I've replaced the spark plugs and noticed no unusual fouling. And it still beats the EPA mileage.

So I think some of these things may be more of an issue

a) In theory
b) with more extreme consumption

For me, it's an extra qt 1/2 way through a 5000mi OCI. Which is very manageable
 
You probably won't find anyone who embraced extended service intervals & was rewarded with 'high mileage' without an engine/transmission
replacement. The extended intervals were intended to conserve resources, not maximize vehicle life/distance covered before retirement/replacement. ( I would consider 'high mileage' anything over 300k miles)
Sir, You have made an incorrect statement. My 2008 Toyota sienna van has over 361,000 miles on it with 20,000 mile oci's. The engine and the transmission are the original engine and transmission from when I bought the van in 2008. The owner's manual says to change the oil every 5,000 miles. The oil I use is Mobil1 5w-30 ep synthetic oil with the Fram ultra oil filter. The van does not use oil during the oci of 20,000 miles. I have sent in used oil to Blackstone labs and they said the oci could go 23,000 miles. The van goes about a 60% highway to about 40% city driving. I think that there is a lot of people on this site who do just like I do and don't have to replace their engines and transmissions and are WELL over 300,000 miles just like me. Also, there are a lot more of people doing the same thing as me and are not on this site.
 
Sir, You have made an incorrect statement. My 2008 Toyota sienna van has over 361,000 miles on it with 20,000 mile oci's. The engine and the transmission are the original engine and transmission from when I bought the van in 2008. The owner's manual says to change the oil every 5,000 miles. The oil I use is Mobil1 5w-30 ep synthetic oil with the Fram ultra oil filter. The van does not use oil during the oci of 20,000 miles. I have sent in used oil to Blackstone labs and they said the oci could go 23,000 miles. The van goes about a 60% highway to about 40% city driving. I think that there is a lot of people on this site who do just like I do and don't have to replace their engines and transmissions and are WELL over 300,000 miles just like me. Also, there are a lot more of people doing the same thing as me and are not on this site.
I think you could get away with that in the older vehicles, I'm guessing pre 2012-2013. I don't think that would fly with GDI engines today.
 
I drive only Fords and have had no problem with 200 to 350K at 10K OCIs. Never an internal engine or trans problem. Yet. Only M1 oils used at 10K OCIs for the last 43 years.
 
How? Seems like another urban myth.


I always laugh when people here say they plan on spending $2,000 or $2,500 to rebuild their engine because it's using a quart every 1,000 miles. Even at 500 miles a quart, that's maybe another $100 a year spent on oil. It will take them another 20 or 25 years to break even on that repair and the car will have rusted out well before that.
The converter gets covered in oil, the oil turns to carbon and it blocks the converter and oil can also prevent the converter from acting as a catalyst (failed converter/check engine light cat efficiency code, and then replacement of the catalytic converter$$$
 
The converter gets covered in oil, the oil turns to carbon and it blocks the converter and oil can also prevent the converter from acting as a catalyst (failed converter/check engine light cat efficiency code, and then replacement of the catalytic converter$$$
I thought if the engine burns oil, it BURNS oil, and you get that blue smoke.
 
The converter gets covered in oil, the oil turns to carbon and it blocks the converter and oil can also prevent the converter from acting as a catalyst (failed converter/check engine light cat efficiency code, and then replacement of the catalytic converter$$$
Have you lost a cat from an oil consumption issue?
 
The 1996 Tacoma shop truck we had at the radiator shop had 448k on it when my boss retired and locked the doors. It got it's oil and filter changed whenever I remembered to. Usually 6-8k sometimes longer and always whatever was on sale or cheapest.

Truck was beaten daily and driven by everyone including customers. The original clutch lasted 369k.

Truck still passed the enhanced California emissions test too.
Just think how long the toy would have lasted running Amsoil !
 
True indeed Overkill...

My neighbor has a old late 80s Ford Escort with 1,000,000 miles plus... The orginal owner was a paper delivery person and used it for courrier delivery too.

Still quite impressive though.... One million miles. Holy cow.

Makes my 337,000 plus mile car seem like it's a spring chicken... :)
Engine wear is minimal when the engine is at a stabilized operating temps.
 
Burning/using oil is a term. Not all oil is thoroughly burned. It will “burn” in the cat as well.
If the oil is burning in the cylinder, all that results is blue smoke in the exhaust. Where do you get that it's not thoroughly burned? And if by some chance raw oil got inside the converter, the 1,000 degree plus temperature would consume it right there. Engine would have to be using a whole lot of oil in that case, maybe 100 miles a quart?
 
If the oil is burning in the cylinder, all that results is blue smoke in the exhaust. Where do you get that it's not thoroughly burned? And if by some chance raw oil got inside the converter, the 1,000 degree plus temperature would consume it right there. Engine would have to be using a whole lot of oil in that case, maybe 100 miles a quart?
Do you want me to build a time machine and bring you to the shop and cut a converter open...or link the many articles describing what I experienced?

Here, it’s easier to link than build a time machine.



This one^^actually directly answers the question you‘re mystified about (oil not burning in the cylinder). It’s “oil vapors fail to burn because they are heavier than fuel”.






I had to stop there (I was getting carpal tunnel symptoms), but there is also plenty of links about phosphorous and other additives in oil that will coat and damage a catalytic converter.
 
Do you want me to build a time machine and bring you to the shop and cut a converter open...or link the many articles describing what I experienced?

Here, it’s easier to link than build a time machine.

I stopped after reading the nonsense in the first link (no disrespect to you personally), specifically,
The oil that’s burned in the engine ends up flowing through the exhaust system, where it can eventually cause catalytic converter failure in much the same way as a coolant leak. Black smoke or signs that your car is using a significant amount of oil
1. Oil that burns in the cylinder turns into a gas, otherwise it wouldn't be burning it, it would just be passing it out as a liquid.
2. Everyone knows blue smoke is the result of oil burning. They mention BLACK smoke. That's from a rich fuel mixture.
Sounds like that was written by someone without any automotive experience.
 
I stopped after reading the nonsense in the first link (no disrespect to you personally), specifically,
The oil that’s burned in the engine ends up flowing through the exhaust system, where it can eventually cause catalytic converter failure in much the same way as a coolant leak. Black smoke or signs that your car is using a significant amount of oil
1. Oil that burns in the cylinder turns into a gas, otherwise it wouldn't be burning it, it would just be passing it out as a liquid.
2. Everyone knows blue smoke is the result of oil burning. They mention BLACK smoke. That's from a rich fuel mixture.
Sounds like that was written by someone without any automotive experience.
Do you want me to link 50,000 more articles? Or perhaps build that time machine?

I don’t know, I think you might be confused again (you did that on another thread regarding coolant changes). Because you mention oil flowing out an exhaust, then not flowing out an exhaust, then oil burning. Blue smoke and oil - if it did make it to the converter - would burn in there. Yes. Yes it would. And the byproduct of oil burning in a converter would be carbon. That’s how converters get contaminated, by the byproducts left behind when oil or antifreeze (or some gasket makers) contaminate the converter, not allowing it to function. It’s a catalyst efficiency code. It happens all the time. P0420 catalyst efficiency bellow threshold. Failed cat. Diagnose it...does the rear 02 sensor fluctuate? diagnose it. Not the sensor? It’s the cat. Cut it open and take a look at the failed cat and car that’s consuming 1 quart of oil every 1,000 miles. It’s coated.

Most of us come here to learn, yet you’re presented with facts and just don’t seem to want to expand your automotive knowledge. Not a dig at you personally, it’s just that what you’re doing is like pointing at the floor and saying, ceiling. The floor is a ceiling. Or pointing at a boiling pot of water and saying, cold, the hot boiling water is cold.
 
2010 Toyota Tundra. Had 475k on it when I gave it to my son. It has 504k now. 5k OCI like clockwork. Mostly Highway miles, but used mostly Valvoline, Amsoil, and M1 But in later life did see a lot of RGT. doesn’t burn anything but does drip a few drips on the driveway.

I do follow the ”severe” maintenance programs in the owners manual. I have stretched a few OCI’s out to see the UOA’s, but I’m happy with what my current reports are.

...and yes, I replaced my 2010 with a new tundra.
 
Oil analysis - same story. Are you really going to drop thousands on an engine repair because your oil doesn't meet what the analysis company says it should? Jeez, oil is cheap. Run the car until the wheel fall off.
 
Back
Top