All that just to get a few extra tablespoons of oil out? Why not just do the oil change at 4900 mi instead of 5000. It achieves the same thing
Who Changes Their Oil Cold?
- Thread starter The Critic
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Exactly shorten the oci or leave the drain plug out longer.
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Who are we to tell another man how to change his oil? (need an icon to show indignant outrage)
I found the process interesting ..not necessarily high yield productive, but interesting. There are some engines that require a given sequence to doing the sump and the filter. I think some Land Rovers require you to never have both drained at the same time. I think you're supposed to change out the sump (fill it back up), then change the filter. Not prefilling it, but not allowing the pump to become empty/void due to siphoning. I'm not sure if the order is critical.
I found the process interesting ..not necessarily high yield productive, but interesting. There are some engines that require a given sequence to doing the sump and the filter. I think some Land Rovers require you to never have both drained at the same time. I think you're supposed to change out the sump (fill it back up), then change the filter. Not prefilling it, but not allowing the pump to become empty/void due to siphoning. I'm not sure if the order is critical.
The $2/qt or less of oil would be the better alternative as I suggested in my first post. It would save ~ $2, unless there is a reason for the MMO, in which case I'd love to hear it. I'm also here to learn.
Did anybody ever try this: after 5-10 minutes drain and the drips are few second apart blowing some air into the fill hold with a hair blower at a slowest setting, you will be amazed of how much more oil coming out of the drain plug.
Originally Posted By: rewote500
I change it hot using a Fumoto Valve. No Burns, No Tools.
I've thought about getting one
You likey?
I change it hot using a Fumoto Valve. No Burns, No Tools.
I've thought about getting one
You likey?
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There must be a chemical/mechanical/engineering reason why every oil change instruction, includes changing motor oil at full operating temperature.
I just answered my own question. I think I'd be following their advice, then my own logic.
ASK MOBIL 1
Question:
Any Problem Changing the Oil When the Engine is Cold?
I have read that the engine needs to warm up before you do an oil change to make the oil flow better. I never did this. I just let the engine cool off overnight to let the oil settle at the oil pan, then do the oil change in the morning. Logic here is that the old oil is collected at the pan and when you drain, you get most of it, plus it is a cold engine, easier to work with. I also put some oil in the new filter so it will not be a dry start. What is your opinion on this method? Thank You.
-- Alex Garcia, Franklin Lakes, NJ
Answer:
We think it is best to change the oil when it has been warmed up. The reasoning being that the oil flows better, and sludge and other deposits are more likely to be removed from the oil pan.
ASK MOBIL 1
Question:
Any Problem Changing the Oil When the Engine is Cold?
I have read that the engine needs to warm up before you do an oil change to make the oil flow better. I never did this. I just let the engine cool off overnight to let the oil settle at the oil pan, then do the oil change in the morning. Logic here is that the old oil is collected at the pan and when you drain, you get most of it, plus it is a cold engine, easier to work with. I also put some oil in the new filter so it will not be a dry start. What is your opinion on this method? Thank You.
-- Alex Garcia, Franklin Lakes, NJ
Answer:
We think it is best to change the oil when it has been warmed up. The reasoning being that the oil flows better, and sludge and other deposits are more likely to be removed from the oil pan.
I prefer to change it "warm" really, but will do it cold if it's what's going to work.
Originally Posted By: TJPark01
There must be a chemical/mechanical/engineering reason why every oil change instruction, includes changing motor oil at full operating temperature.
Mechanical: the heaviest junk slowly falls out of the oil but is still swimming around at shutdown
Chemical: solubility of liquids & solids in liquids goes up as temperature goes up, e.g. it's a lot easier to mix sugar into tea when it's hot than cold
There must be a chemical/mechanical/engineering reason why every oil change instruction, includes changing motor oil at full operating temperature.
Mechanical: the heaviest junk slowly falls out of the oil but is still swimming around at shutdown
Chemical: solubility of liquids & solids in liquids goes up as temperature goes up, e.g. it's a lot easier to mix sugar into tea when it's hot than cold
I would only drain oil cold in a car that doesn't run, or that has been sitting for more than six months, or that is being stripped apart for scrapping. Otherwise I'll make good use of the highway run to warm it up to pick up any additional supplies I need (more oil filters, more oil, wiper blades, air filters, paper towels, hand cleaner, whatever).
I will drive home, stop the car, pull out all the stuff I need, lift it, jackstand it, throw the pan under and pull the filter, wipe the mount off, pull the oil filler cap, and then slide over the pan and pull the drain plug.
While the engine oil drains, I can be putting a half quart or so into the filter to let it soak in, then stick it on the side of the motor in the Torino. On the Ciera, I can fill the filter to the top (AC Delco PF47 takes a shade under a full quart) because the filter installs perfectly vertical on that 3300 with the remote mount. Then I can put the drain plug back in and put in the remaining amount of oil needed (about 4qt for the Torino, 3qt for the Ciera) into the filler hole.
Put the lid onto and slide the catch pan out of the way, drop the car off the jackstands and fire it up, check the oil pressure (Torino when it stops knocking and the oil light goes out, Ciera when the oil pressure gauge jumps up to 60 or so), then shut it down. Wipe off the dipstick and check the level, top off if needed. Write down the miles, date, and amount of oil used on the top lid of the filter box and toss it in the glovebox. And every so often, make another trip into town to turn in the used oil and a handful of filters.
Changing oil isn't hard. But I took the time to write all that out because that is how I do it hot, it's how my dad did it, it's worked pretty good so far. Some people might be able to complete all of the necessary tasks on a cold engine. More power to them. I feel a hot motor is better for this because more circulating dirt will drain out rather than settle. Is it absolute? Probably not. But it's a good placebo.
I will drive home, stop the car, pull out all the stuff I need, lift it, jackstand it, throw the pan under and pull the filter, wipe the mount off, pull the oil filler cap, and then slide over the pan and pull the drain plug.
While the engine oil drains, I can be putting a half quart or so into the filter to let it soak in, then stick it on the side of the motor in the Torino. On the Ciera, I can fill the filter to the top (AC Delco PF47 takes a shade under a full quart) because the filter installs perfectly vertical on that 3300 with the remote mount. Then I can put the drain plug back in and put in the remaining amount of oil needed (about 4qt for the Torino, 3qt for the Ciera) into the filler hole.
Put the lid onto and slide the catch pan out of the way, drop the car off the jackstands and fire it up, check the oil pressure (Torino when it stops knocking and the oil light goes out, Ciera when the oil pressure gauge jumps up to 60 or so), then shut it down. Wipe off the dipstick and check the level, top off if needed. Write down the miles, date, and amount of oil used on the top lid of the filter box and toss it in the glovebox. And every so often, make another trip into town to turn in the used oil and a handful of filters.
Changing oil isn't hard. But I took the time to write all that out because that is how I do it hot, it's how my dad did it, it's worked pretty good so far. Some people might be able to complete all of the necessary tasks on a cold engine. More power to them. I feel a hot motor is better for this because more circulating dirt will drain out rather than settle. Is it absolute? Probably not. But it's a good placebo.
Originally Posted By: bepperb
It's funny, people think you need to leave that "cold oil" overnight to drain.
The same people manage to pour 5 quarts of the exact same temperature oil into the crankcase in less than 5 minutes.
I guess gravity works better four feet off the ground than two.
It's funny, people think you need to leave that "cold oil" overnight to drain.
The same people manage to pour 5 quarts of the exact same temperature oil into the crankcase in less than 5 minutes.
I guess gravity works better four feet off the ground than two.
Originally Posted By: TJPark01
There must be a chemical/mechanical/engineering reason why every oil change instruction, includes changing motor oil at full operating temperature.
There is.
The instructions are written to minimize the 'dry start' of an empty oil filter.
There must be a chemical/mechanical/engineering reason why every oil change instruction, includes changing motor oil at full operating temperature.
There is.
The instructions are written to minimize the 'dry start' of an empty oil filter.
Originally Posted By: SteveSRT8
There is.
The instructions are written to minimize the 'dry start' of an empty oil filter.
If you are changing the oil and filter, regardless of hot or cold oil, isn't the oil filter going to be empty anyway, what am I missing?
There is.
The instructions are written to minimize the 'dry start' of an empty oil filter.
If you are changing the oil and filter, regardless of hot or cold oil, isn't the oil filter going to be empty anyway, what am I missing?
Originally Posted By: HTSS_TR
Did anybody ever try this: after 5-10 minutes drain and the drips are few second apart blowing some air into the fill hold with a hair blower at a slowest setting, you will be amazed of how much more oil coming out of the drain plug.
Just when I though ive head everything
I was going to add: dont change your oil on Friday 13th (today) but I seem to have BETTER luck on this day than all the others ...
Did anybody ever try this: after 5-10 minutes drain and the drips are few second apart blowing some air into the fill hold with a hair blower at a slowest setting, you will be amazed of how much more oil coming out of the drain plug.
Just when I though ive head everything
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Originally Posted By: HTSS_TR
Did anybody ever try this: after 5-10 minutes drain and the drips are few second apart blowing some air into the fill hold with a hair blower at a slowest setting, you will be amazed of how much more oil coming out of the drain plug.
I'll take a slightly different view here than Arco. This is a true BITOG oil change technique of distinction.
Hey, folks, this is BITOG. Welcome to THE XTREME FULL CONTACT LUBRICATION ZONE. No sump is too small or too big. No OCI too short or too long. Nothing to complex or simple.
We got it all, baby
Did anybody ever try this: after 5-10 minutes drain and the drips are few second apart blowing some air into the fill hold with a hair blower at a slowest setting, you will be amazed of how much more oil coming out of the drain plug.
I'll take a slightly different view here than Arco. This is a true BITOG oil change technique of distinction.
Hey, folks, this is BITOG. Welcome to THE XTREME FULL CONTACT LUBRICATION ZONE. No sump is too small or too big. No OCI too short or too long. Nothing to complex or simple.
We got it all, baby
Originally Posted By: TJPark01
Originally Posted By: SteveSRT8
There is.
The instructions are written to minimize the 'dry start' of an empty oil filter.
If you are changing the oil and filter, regardless of hot or cold oil, isn't the oil filter going to be empty anyway, what am I missing?
You can fill the new filter first before installation.
Originally Posted By: SteveSRT8
There is.
The instructions are written to minimize the 'dry start' of an empty oil filter.
If you are changing the oil and filter, regardless of hot or cold oil, isn't the oil filter going to be empty anyway, what am I missing?
You can fill the new filter first before installation.
Originally Posted By: mcrn
Originally Posted By: TJPark01
Originally Posted By: SteveSRT8
There is.
The instructions are written to minimize the 'dry start' of an empty oil filter.
If you are changing the oil and filter, regardless of hot or cold oil, isn't the oil filter going to be empty anyway, what am I missing?
You can fill the new filter first before installation.
Yes, but it doesn't answer how a cold or warm oil would affect the dry start of an empty oil filter.
Originally Posted By: TJPark01
Originally Posted By: SteveSRT8
There is.
The instructions are written to minimize the 'dry start' of an empty oil filter.
If you are changing the oil and filter, regardless of hot or cold oil, isn't the oil filter going to be empty anyway, what am I missing?
You can fill the new filter first before installation.
Yes, but it doesn't answer how a cold or warm oil would affect the dry start of an empty oil filter.
filling the filter with oil reduces the time it takes for oil to make it through the oil pump, through the filter, and into your engines critical parts. the oil filter has to fill up before any will come out, an empty filter takes longer to fill up, thus no oil flow for a certain amount of time.
Originally Posted By: Gary Allan
Originally Posted By: HTSS_TR
Did anybody ever try this: after 5-10 minutes drain and the drips are few second apart blowing some air into the fill hold with a hair blower at a slowest setting, you will be amazed of how much more oil coming out of the drain plug.
I'll take a slightly different view here than Arco. This is a true BITOG oil change technique of distinction.
Hey, folks, this is BITOG. Welcome to THE XTREME FULL CONTACT LUBRICATION ZONE. No sump is too small or too big. No OCI too short or too long. Nothing to complex or simple.
We got it all, baby
We all know that even after a long drain, there are some oil remaining in the engine, the question is how to get most of it out. Why not try something unusual ? Blowing some air with a hair blower into the fill hole doesn't hurt anything. You'll never know what you want to do will work or not until you try it, if it's a waste of time with no better result then try something else, until you're convinced that the way you did it was the best you can do.
Originally Posted By: HTSS_TR
Did anybody ever try this: after 5-10 minutes drain and the drips are few second apart blowing some air into the fill hold with a hair blower at a slowest setting, you will be amazed of how much more oil coming out of the drain plug.
I'll take a slightly different view here than Arco. This is a true BITOG oil change technique of distinction.
Hey, folks, this is BITOG. Welcome to THE XTREME FULL CONTACT LUBRICATION ZONE. No sump is too small or too big. No OCI too short or too long. Nothing to complex or simple.
We got it all, baby
We all know that even after a long drain, there are some oil remaining in the engine, the question is how to get most of it out. Why not try something unusual ? Blowing some air with a hair blower into the fill hole doesn't hurt anything. You'll never know what you want to do will work or not until you try it, if it's a waste of time with no better result then try something else, until you're convinced that the way you did it was the best you can do.
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