I have driven Toyota trucks since 1987 and have always used Castrol Regular oil with changes at every 3000 miles. My last 1992 Toytoa 4x4 has over 300 miles on it and has just started to use about 1/2 Qt. between changes. I recently traded my 2001 4x4 for a 2005 Corrolla and since I drive over 100 miles a day I would like to change the oil less often (say every 6000 miles). I drve all highway miles between 50-60 mph. I am thinking about the 5w30 Castrol synthetic. The car has 26,000 miles on it and has been using regular oil. Which oil would be best?
Which Synthetic?
- Thread starter ole-reb1
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What a perfect situation for Redline Oil. You could do three 12,000+ mile OCIs per year.
For 6,000 mile OCIs you could use most any Group III, or even a conventional for that matter.
I bet regular Maxlife is up to 6000 miles. It went 4400 miles with ease (and a lot of room to go farther) in my motorhome.
For 6,000 mile OCIs you could use most any Group III, or even a conventional for that matter.
I bet regular Maxlife is up to 6000 miles. It went 4400 miles with ease (and a lot of room to go farther) in my motorhome.
Instead of 5w30 go with 0w-30 Castrol Syntec aka GC which stands for German Castrol.
Look for a "made in Germany" line just above the bar code.
Even though it costs exactly the same (hurry up, it's only $3.99 a qt and currently on sale at AutoZone) Syntec 0w-30 is a completely different (better) oil, formulated with much better fully synthetic basestocks.
Under your driving conditions I would go 7.5-8K miles.
You could probably go much longer but do an oil analisys first before deciding on longer intervals.
[ October 16, 2005, 10:52 PM: Message edited by: vad ]
Triple_Se7en
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German Castrol 0W-30
Mobil-1 EP
Pennzoil Platinum
Amsoil
Take your pick -- they are all very good.
Mobil-1 EP
Pennzoil Platinum
Amsoil
Take your pick -- they are all very good.
Why so many people here recommand M1-EP? Ain't the more additive in an oil the less oil is available for lubricating since additives can't lubricate?? For this reason, why not the regular M1 is more prefered over EP for regular OCI regardless the cost???
The additives in a passenger car motor oil formulation help protect the base oils and provide secondary wear protection when/if the oil film fails under extreme conditions.
The API SA service grade motor oils are commonly referred to as "non-detergent oil" and have only minor levels of additives, if any.
Use of SA oils creates dirty engines very quickly, as the oil lacks the additives to keep itself clean & looses the ability to lubricate.
Feh, 6,000 mile OCIs for a vehicle that sees around 100 miles per day? Havoline and possibly some LC20. Cheap and effective. I mean, we have people going 12,000 miles on this oil without the LC20 and still turning in a good UOA.
Frankly, the modern Havoline seems to significantly close the gap between conventional and synthetic oils for most applications, IMHO. (And that's coming from someone who's used Mobil 1 in all his vehicles since 1985 or so.)
Frankly, the modern Havoline seems to significantly close the gap between conventional and synthetic oils for most applications, IMHO. (And that's coming from someone who's used Mobil 1 in all his vehicles since 1985 or so.)
With 100 miles per day and light loads I'd use Mobil 1 and go 10,000 miles and do a UOA. Mobil 1 at WalMart is $20 per 5 quarts or $4.oo /quart. I also would use an OEM or PureOne oil filter. I think this combination would work very well.
Thanks folks, I appreciate your advice. I will look at the Mobil 1 as well as others you mentioned. What a great place to get the facts. Keep up the great work!
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