Both of my Jeep 4.0's consistantly showed better wear numbers with XW-40. Using XW-30 tended to raise the iron numbers.
Which Oil is best to use for an Inline 6 engine?
- Thread starter Difranco
- Start date
- Status
Well let me at it...99 Cherokee and 01 TJ both with the I-6...use Delvac 5W-40 and Esso XD-3 0W-40 in both year round with either a Baldwin,Napa Gold or Mobil 1 oversized oil filter...run fantastic!
Defranco - where in the PNW do you live? Since I'm here Amsoil is available.
I had a feeling this would be the answer. However, it is not really true. Cheap dino 5W30 oils tend to shear down. Synthetics do not tend to shear down as much. (from what I have read on this board). Lastly, you have an oil like GC 0W30 with is almost a 40 weight at temp. It is probably thicker than any 10W30 at operating temp. So recommending a 5W30 dino oil is completely different than recommending a 0W30 synthetic. Now I am more confused. If this engine requires a thicker oil, wouldn't a better recommendation be something like:
Synthetic 0W30, 5W30
Dino 10W30, 10W40.
Go with Maxlife 10w40. Or if you can find any of the SL Durablend 10w40, it would be even better (ACEA A3 rated).
Just use one of the high mileage 10W30's, they're thicker than the other 10W30's and not that expensive. You can use it all year long around here.
My UOA with Chevron 10W30 HM was pretty good. Iron wear was 14 ppm at 3000 miles, or 4.66 ppm/1K. The oil hadn't sheared much, and was probably still good for another 1-1.5K. No need to spend more than about $2 a quart for excellent results in this engine.
My UOA with Chevron 10W30 HM was pretty good. Iron wear was 14 ppm at 3000 miles, or 4.66 ppm/1K. The oil hadn't sheared much, and was probably still good for another 1-1.5K. No need to spend more than about $2 a quart for excellent results in this engine.
- Joined
- Sep 28, 2002
- Messages
- 39,799
I agree with you to an extent, Mark. It would, however, make as much sense to use a $4/quart oil if you can double your OCI without shearing and have the advantage of a synth in colder flow situation ..which I think would be superior to a 10w-X (a 5w-40).
But in general, I don't think that this engine is going to give any less service life with the selection of one over the other. The bottom ends never give out and you're probably looking at near diesel like life out of it anyway.
But in general, I don't think that this engine is going to give any less service life with the selection of one over the other. The bottom ends never give out and you're probably looking at near diesel like life out of it anyway.
I'd like to give that a try, but I can't find any 5W-40 oil around here for less than $4.99 a quart.
I have thought about tossing in a couple of quarts of Delo 15W40 with 4 of my Chevron 10W30HM and do a UOA.
But I really think you're right, these engines aren't gonna wear out from one's choice of oil.
I have thought about tossing in a couple of quarts of Delo 15W40 with 4 of my Chevron 10W30HM and do a UOA.
But I really think you're right, these engines aren't gonna wear out from one's choice of oil.
Wal-Mart has M1 5W-40 in 5 qt jugs for 19.99, and Rotella T 5W-40 for something like $13/gallon.
I think in general, most owners find a thicker oil does better. That is why some recommend a minimum of 10w-30 because it will not shear as badly as a 5W-30. However, you operate in a colder climate in the winter, so you need the lower temperature protection of the 5W-30.
To satisfy both your service manager and yourself choose an oil on the thick side of the 30 weights. These oils are getting pretty rare with the emphasis today on fuel economy. You did not state if you wanted a synthetic or not, but the German Castrol(GC) 0W-30 might fit the bill year round for both low temperature protection, high viscocity, and resistance to shear. If you look around on the board you will find a lot of information on it.
Another oil you might consider which I am becoming more and more interested in is the Valvoline Maxlife Synthetic 5W-30. If I remember right it is a group III/PAO blend. It may be a little cheaper than the GC.
Both these oils are ACEA A3 rated which means that they have a higher viscocity than most other 30 weights and maintain that viscocity better.
To satisfy both your service manager and yourself choose an oil on the thick side of the 30 weights. These oils are getting pretty rare with the emphasis today on fuel economy. You did not state if you wanted a synthetic or not, but the German Castrol(GC) 0W-30 might fit the bill year round for both low temperature protection, high viscocity, and resistance to shear. If you look around on the board you will find a lot of information on it.
Another oil you might consider which I am becoming more and more interested in is the Valvoline Maxlife Synthetic 5W-30. If I remember right it is a group III/PAO blend. It may be a little cheaper than the GC.
Both these oils are ACEA A3 rated which means that they have a higher viscocity than most other 30 weights and maintain that viscocity better.
...but that would involve driving either to Renton or Lynnwood, then spending an hour in the chaotic environment of Wal-Mart.
From the UOA's on the 4.0 that I've seen, what I'm using gives better iron wear numbers than Rotella, and not much worse at all than Mobil1 5W-40 TSUV.
- Status
Similar threads
