Which oil for mower & generator? Should I fog?

[NattyBoh]

So, winter is coming up and the grass season is coming to an end. I bought a new mower this year from Honda, their HRX217K5VKA. I told myself Id never spend that much on a mower, but it is very nice and worth it IMO. Anyway, It specs 10w30 oil. Ive already done two oil changes on it. What Im wondering is, what should I run in it now, oil wise? Go with a syn? Non-syn? Diesel rated?

I also have a brand new generator I won in a raffle. I have yet t fuel it up, but I did add oil and turn it over a few times to coat the inside. I believe that too takes a 10w30. Any recommendations there?

Lastly, should I fog the mower and generator at storage time? If so, with what? Im going to drain the bowls and I may run some of that non-ethanol fuel thru it with Stabil. I use Stabil regardless, and Im thinking about switching over to the Marine version. I read it does help with ethanol more-so than the standard Stabil.

Thanks all.



Edited: I also always have 5w40 left over from my truck. ITs either Rotella t6, or Delo ESP 5w50

 

[Eddie]

I like Pennzoil Platinum 10w30 and have used it in my mowers for many years. Probably over-kill but, I change it once a year. $26 for a 5 quart jug at Walmarts. Ed

 

[NattyBoh]

Edited on my original post. ITs supposed to be Delvac ESP

 

[Shrubitup]

If mower is only operated above freezing temps then just get some sae30 oil at ace for $2 a quart. They also have 10w30 which is what you should choose for generator due to possible winter use.

If you always have 5w40 left over then just use that instead of buying purpose specific oil.

 

[mattwithcats]

Two choices I suggest are NAPA full synthetic,
in 5w30 and 10w30,
currently $3.49 until mid November, I believe,
and Rotella T5, 10w30, a great cheap semi-synthetic diesel oil...

 

[dernp]

I use T5 in my Honda mower and it seems fine.

 

[Quest]

I use HDEO on all the small OPE engines I maintain: my Honda (BE) pressure washer, my B&S mower engine, my 2 honda gennies, etc.

For Hondas I use T5 10W30; for B&S, I use Isosyn 15W40.

I fog all my engines and drain the carbs (esp. Hondas, my B&S carb cannot be drained w/o taking off the bowl first) before winter storage.

Q.

 

[NattyBoh]

What do you use to fog the engine? Ive never done it, and thought Why not. What should I use?

 

[CT8]

I have an HRC and use any 10w30 or 15w40 I ave left over, the motor doesn't care. The secret is to change it regularly and check the air filter. Does your hydrostatic drive have and oil drain plug? I changed my oil after the first year and the oil was dirty looking .

 

[Quest]

Some shops sell fogging oil spray can.

Amsoil makes/sells them, and so does sta-bil (Walmart carries it)

http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/other-products/cleaners-and-protectants/engine-fogging-oil/

There are 2 ways to fog an engine (make sure you do so outdoors):

(1) with air filter off and then engine running @ idle, spray generously into the carb until engine stalls.

(2) with the warm engine, take off the spark plug and spray an Oz or 2 into the engine combustion chamber via spark plug hole...

Hand-crank the engine slowly to work the fogging oil throughout the engine moving parts (piston rings, etc.)

(3) put the plug back in there. Pull the engine rope slowly (engine brake mechanism off) until you feel the resistance...that's when both the intake and exhaust valve closed and piston in TDC position.

(4) stuff your engine and store it inside.

*remember to change the oil immediately 1st thing after you re-start your engine in spring. That's because your engine oil inside your crankcase gets "thinned" out by fogging oil.

Q.

 

[NattyBoh]

I dont know if it has a drain plug... I dont think its hydrostatic neither. I'll have to look into that. THanks!

Look like here: http://www.heartlandhonda.com/showcaseproductdetail.htm?id=867676&used=1 Says it has fixed speed / drive belt.

Thanks Quest.

 

[Quest]

Alternatively, some OPE manufacturers (such as Honda) would recommend squirting a spoonful or 2 motor oil into the spark plug hole, turn the engine over by hand until resistance is felt.

This would work also, but engine oil tends to take longer to burn off than, say, fogging oil.

Also: the real reason as to why one must pull the rope until resistance is felt is to have both intake and exhaust valves shut within the combustion chamber. This will help keeping the sensitive (easy to rust) parts within the chamber from atmospheric moisture getting in...

Q.

 

[Quest]

typically honda engine oil change can be easily (if not a bit messy) done by the engine oil filling (dipstick) plug part, tipping it to drain, and then level (+ a small neck funnel) to refill until the engine oil slightly overflowing out from the oil filler hole...

Put the plastic dipstick back in it, wipe it down and that's it!

Q.

Lastly: observe the type of oil filler (dipstick) hole type when re-filling. The long neck type requires additional care, whereas the shortneck (right off the alu block type), simply follow the aforementioned instructions mentioned above.

 

[CT8]

I had an old low end Honda mower and the drive unit broke well before the motor . I don't think and extra care is needed as they will last with out extra pampering.

 

[901Memphis]

Mobil 1 High Mileage 10W30

 

[JR]

Air cleaner off, start engine, spray fog oil in carb til heavy smoke starts, kill engine while still fogging. Pull the plug and spray in cylinder and spin, repeat this step a few time and replace plug.
Call it good til spring.
As for oil my gcv190 gets whatever partial oil bottle has 12fl oz in it



-Harvey

 

[NattyBoh]

Appreciate it guys.

 

[andyd]

I use MMO in the fuel and run the carb dry after each use. My first use for MMO was as a fogger, but a B+S flathead will run on it

 

[linksep]

Originally Posted By: NattyBoh
Im going to drain the bowls and I may run some of that non-ethanol fuel thru it with Stabil.


Don't drain the bowels, drain the tanks, then the bowels. No fuel (or a tablespoon of fuel in the entire fuel system) means no gum/varnish/gunk/nastiness. Then pull the plug(s), spray in a little aerosol fogging oil, reinsert plug(s), pull starter rope until you're on the compression stroke and let them sit until needed. When needed fuel up and go. You are doing better than 99.999% of other OPE owners and those 99.999% of other people have engines that will last 20+ years.

 

[Cujet]

I am a fan of Mobil 1, Turbo Diesel Truck in air cooled engines. It's a robust, synthetic oil that withstands heat very well. Plus it has a great additive package. Rotella T6 is similar.

I change oil by hours of use. So, seldom used equipment such as generators get infrequent oil changes.

Yes, I do like the idea of "fogging" an engine during storage. I also prefer to store engines without any fuel.

The biggest problem is always old, varnished-up fuel. So, when I run my stuff out of gas, I always make sure it's 100% dry.

Or, I use VP-fuels C9 "storage fuel" which never goes bad.