Which method would you choose to plumb this compressor filter?

[saabracer23]

Which method would you choose to plumb in this compressor filter?

I was just going to tear into it tonight, but I got cold feet and thought I should ask first. It’s a Walker centrifugal water separator and it goes in between the output of the inter cooler and the input of the tank. So there is only a fairly short distance between those two and I don’t have a ton of options.

First option, cut out about 8” of the copper pipe connecting the output and input, thread (with sealant) 3/4” Shark Bite fittings into either side of the filter and then slip the copper pipe into the fittings on either side. Seems to be the easiest route. I did quite a bit of reading on this, many say they’re great and some say they aren’t. They’re rated for 250 psi, way more than what I’m running. I read where folks said they’ve had Shark Bites in the compressor piping for several years and they’ve performed flawlessly. To me it at least seems worth trying, but I can’t lose too much pipe.

Second option would be to cut the same 8” of pipe out, thread copper fittings into the filter and then sweat the 3/4” slip fittings into the pipe. The issue with this method is that I have to thread the slip to thread fittings into the filter first and then solder the slip joints. I haven’t gotten an answer or found one that says Teflon tape or PTFE thread compound (or the filter for that matter) would stand up to the heating of the joint with mapp gas. I see that they say around 400 degrees for the Teflon, but could it get higher than that? I know the solder melts at a lower point, but the joint will get quite a bit higher than the melting point.

I would remove the piping from the compressor, get everything setup and then put it back, but one, I’m worried about leaks at that point from compression fittings and two, to get proper access I’d have to move the compressor away from the wall and I can’t do that on my own, it weighs like 700-800 pounds.

Suggestions would be greatly appreciated!

Dan

 

[oilcandave]

I've had more issues with pressfit than shark bite. Both seal with O-ring. Don't tell anyone but I run all pex tubing with Watts crimps for my air stuff when rigidity is not important. When it is I thread up some galvanized pipe. If that housing is plastic or equivalent no heat.

 

[clinebarger]

Plumbing a filter at the discharge of the pump isn't something I would do.

 

[saabracer23]

Plumbing a filter at the discharge of the pump isn't something I would do.

Can you tell me why? Walker said that it was an appropriate place to install it. It was shown in another thread that after a constant run of 22 minutes at 120-140 psi in the tank that the pipe going into the tank was only 15 degrees above ambient temp. It was 49 in the garage and the pipe was 61. This was a torture test, I’d never run it for a constant 22 minutes without giving the pump a break.

Dan

 

[Traction]

The copper tube is not giving you a correct temp reading on your IR camera. You need to put some black tape on it to get an accurate reading.

 

[saabracer23]

The copper tube is not giving you a correct temp reading on your IR camera. You need to put some black tape on it to get an accurate reading.

Well as I mentioned I have another thread regarding the whole setup and I mentioned in it that after the 22 minute run it was no warmer than picking up a length of copper pipe that was sitting in Home Depot (since the air in the store is warmer than outside on a given day. So yeah, I held the pipe in my hand and it was definitely cool to the touch. The intercooler does a very good job of cooling the air, I’d say the 61 degree reading was accurate.

Dan

 

[saabracer23]

I will say that the copper pipe going from the top of the pump into the intercooler was very hot, would have easily taken skin from my fingers if I had let it.

Dan

 

[saabracer23]

Other then the pipe temp is there another reason not to place it there? Of course if the pipe got hot it would be a very poor place to use it.

Dan

 

[Job]

A brass compression fitting with brass nut and ferrule might be easier. Also all metal means no issues with temperature hurting anything even if unlikely. It also doesn’t have to be cut as well as with the shark bite fitting.
There is a brass compression fitting already on the ends of the existing tubing.

 

[compressortech]

Mount it coming out of the tank. More water will be removed by the tank acting as a cooler then filter it coming out. Just remember to drain the tank.

 

[Chris142]

It goes after the tank. Not before. And use air line quick connects on each side of it so that it can be removed if needed

 

[350Rocket]

Which method would you choose to plumb in this compressor filter?

I was just going to tear into it tonight, but I got cold feet and thought I should ask first. It’s a Walker centrifugal water separator and it goes in between the output of the inter cooler and the input of the tank. So there is only a fairly short distance between those two and I don’t have a ton of options.

First option, cut out about 8” of the copper pipe connecting the output and input, thread (with sealant) 3/4” Shark Bite fittings into either side of the filter and then slip the copper pipe into the fittings on either side. Seems to be the easiest route. I did quite a bit of reading on this, many say they’re great and some say they aren’t. They’re rated for 250 psi, way more than what I’m running. I read where folks said they’ve had Shark Bites in the compressor piping for several years and they’ve performed flawlessly. To me it at least seems worth trying, but I can’t lose too much pipe.
View attachment 75215

Second option would be to cut the same 8” of pipe out, thread copper fittings into the filter and then sweat the 3/4” slip fittings into the pipe. The issue with this method is that I have to thread the slip to thread fittings into the filter first and then solder the slip joints. I haven’t gotten an answer or found one that says Teflon tape or PTFE thread compound (or the filter for that matter) would stand up to the heating of the joint with mapp gas. I see that they say around 400 degrees for the Teflon, but could it get higher than that? I know the solder melts at a lower point, but the joint will get quite a bit higher than the melting point.

View attachment 75216

I would remove the piping from the compressor, get everything setup and then put it back, but one, I’m worried about leaks at that point from compression fittings and two, to get proper access I’d have to move the compressor away from the wall and I can’t do that on my own, it weighs like 700-800 pounds.

Suggestions would be greatly appreciated!

Dan

I would plumb it up with this...

 

[SammyChevelleTypeS3]

A brass compression fitting with brass nut and ferrule might be easier. Also all metal means no issues with temperature hurting anything even if unlikely. It also doesn’t have to be cut as well as with the shark bite fitting.
There is a brass compression fitting already on the ends of the existing tubing.

Right shark bite fittings usually come with rubber or some composite o ring that can melt from heat or just end up a potential leak spot.
Brass compression fittings is the way to go to prevent leaks and will be a rigid application using the copper tubing so no need to mount or create a brace or bracket. I can't get it that the compressor does not or did not have one of those filters already...?

 

[saabracer23]

Mount it coming out of the tank. More water will be removed by the tank acting as a cooler then filter it coming out. Just remember to drain the tank.

It goes after the tank. Not before. And use air line quick connects on each side of it so that it can be removed if needed

What you say does make sense. I called Walker directly and talked to a couple of folks including engineers of the filter. We discussed my goal, keeping as much water as possible from reaching the tank. It’s easy enough to drain the tank, but if I get dry air into the tank I’ll never have to worry about rusting then tank out.

I told them I wanted to use this filter in place of the usual 50 feet of snaked copper pipe that people strap to their walls to dry the air. I’ve seen this style of intercooler such as this

Placed on the output of the tank as it is shown in the picture above and I’ve seen it placed between the output of the pump and input of the tank.

The latter makes more sense to me especially if you’re wanting to keep water out of your tank. The engineer I spoke with said the Walker filter would be a perfect fit between the intercooler and the input of the tank as the intercooler itself pulls a lot of the water out since the air coming from it is cooled. That water has nowhere to go other than to trickle down into the tank.

As I mentioned, I put the compressor through a torture test that would far exceed anything I’d do to it when naturally working. During that test the pipe leading from the intercooler to the input of the tank never even got slightly warm. That was telling be that the air was cooled before it ever hit the tank. I checked for water at the first drop which is about 17 feet from the exit of the tank and there was moisture, but barely. No drips or anything like that, just vapor basically. Lots of water in the tank though.

That has me thinking. I put it before the tank it’s a bit harder to install, but keeps most if not all of the water removed from the air from entering the tank. A dry tank is what I’m after.

I install it after the tank, it’s much easier to install. It wouldn’t collect all that much water since it’ll be in the tank. So it may not do all that much. If I put it after the tank will it equal dryer air over putting it before the tank?

I know I’m over thinking this, I think I’ll give Walker a call which would be best.

Im obsessed with having dry air for my spraying.
With the intercooler, into the Walker filter, into 20 ft of Piper, into the IR filter, into the Motor Guard filter and then into 50 ft if of 3/8” hose, does anyone think I’ll have to worry about moisture in my air???

Does anyone know of a decent desiccant filter I can place after all of this? Maybe a DIY option? Or would I be wasting my time as my air is already very dry?

Dan

 

[JHZR2]

I’m surprised that the spot mentioned is a good one. What you’re saying makes sense in terms of wanting a dry tank. But breaking into that pipe seems tough. Id think that the air coming from the intercooler would still be quite warm, and the tank volume and surface area another good heat exchanger.

Id also be concerned about vibration in a spot like that, on those short pipe runs. Is there solid material to mount to?

I think if Imwas serious about that, I’d lose the OE copper pipe between the intercooler and tank, and run copper with a short rubber nipple on one or both ends, to the moisture collector mounted off of the machine. So threaded nipple - copper pipe - barbed fitting - rubber hose - barbed fitting - dryer. And then the reverse…

 

[dlundblad]

Can you tell me why? Walker said that it was an appropriate place to install it. It was shown in another thread that after a constant run of 22 minutes at 120-140 psi in the tank that the pipe going into the tank was only 15 degrees above ambient temp. It was 49 in the garage and the pipe was 61. This was a torture test, I’d never run it for a constant 22 minutes without giving the pump a break.

View attachment 75221

Dan

By placing the filter there, you’re assuming your tank is clean.

I would personally put it right after it leaves the tank through the air hose.

 

[saabracer23]

I’m surprised that the spot mentioned is a good one. What you’re saying makes sense in terms of wanting a dry tank. But breaking into that pipe seems tough. Id think that the air coming from the intercooler would still be quite warm, and the tank volume and surface area another good heat exchanger.

Id also be concerned about vibration in a spot like that, on those short pipe runs. Is there solid material to mount to?

I think if Imwas serious about that, I’d lose the OE copper pipe between the intercooler and tank, and run copper with a short rubber nipple on one or both ends, to the moisture collector mounted off of the machine. So threaded nipple - copper pipe - barbed fitting - rubber hose - barbed fitting - dryer. And then the reverse…

Honestly, breaking into that pipe wouldn’t be too hard at all. There is plenty of room. I too figured the air would be warm as well, after the 22-23 minute run at 130ish psi I was super cautious about touching the pipe. I figured it would be quite warm, but it was barely above ambient temp.

I called Walker again and told them of the suggestions on this forum. They said again that thr pipe I’m speaking of would be an appropriate place to put it, but if I put it after the tank it would equal dryer air. I’m so confused about this filter. It’s just an empty container, so basically it acts like one of my drop down pipes that catches water?

So, if you remove the cap

The body is empty, it has this insert that looks to cause the air to cyclone on the outside perimeter and then the air travels through the center. So basically like a cyclone dust collector.

You remove the insert you’re left with an empty case.

I’m kind of bummed, I thought this removed water from the air, but it looks like it just removes water that has already come out of the air? Can I fill the empty space in the case with desiccant beads lol? The problem is, I’m not really seeing much water after the tank. I guess I’m confused about the claim of 99% water removal. I figured they meant 99% from the air, but do the mean 99% from what’s fallen out of the air?

I mean, doesn’t the tank collect most of the water? Don’t my multiple drop down pipes with ball valves collect most if not all of what water is left? I guess the best place to put the Walker filter would be at the end of the 20 foot run of pipe, right before the Ingersoll Rand filter, right?

I really, really like your idea in the last paragraph and I think I will move forward with that. Would you be able to show me exactly the type of moisture collector/dryer you suggest? I dont know exactly what you’re suggesting, but having a collector between mounted on the wall to collect the water coming from the intercooler sounds perfect!

Dan

 

[saabracer23]

By placing the filter there, you’re assuming your tank is clean.

I would personally put it right after it leaves the tank through the air hose.

Thank you for the suggestion, after many people suggesting the same thing I think that’s where it’ll go.

Dan

 

[#18FAN]

I’m taking it you never installed the filter as recommended by Walker and ran it correct?? The original issue you had you did NOT want the water or as much water collecting in the tank and that is where that aftercooler is going to dump it this would avoid some of that. For some reason you are obsessed of water in the tank it will harm nothing and is doing the job of collecting water that has been removed by the cooler.

 

[saabracer23]

I’m taking it you never installed the filter as recommended by Walker and ran it correct?? The original issue you had you did NOT want the water or as much water collecting in the tank and that is where that aftercooler is going to dump it this would avoid some of that. For some reason you are obsessed of water in the tank it will harm nothing and is doing the job of collecting water that has been removed by the cooler.

I did not install it yet, you are correct. If I’m remembering correctly you are the one that suggested the Walker. Yes, originally I did not want water in the tank which is why the Walker folks said that between the intercooler and tank would be a great place for the filter as long as the pipe between them didn’t get warm.

Many said that it would be better after the tank and to just let water go into the tank. It’s a bit of an OCD thing, I just imagine rust eating a hole through the tank in like a years time. I know that’s ridiculous, there are tanks that had water in them that are 50 years old. I called Walker again, I was told that the original spot would work as long as the pipe truly didn’t get warm, but that it would indeed work better after the tank. In fact he said that if it was him that he would put it at the end of the 20 foot run of pipe, right before the Ingersoll Rand filter.

The only thing is, I haven’t really seen any water there. I have the drop down pipe right there and whenever I open that ball valve I’ve had air that maybe makes my hand feel damp, but that was only after the 23 minute torture test. Normal use, then no. So wouldn’t that filter be wasted there? It’s kind of an expensive filter to have it do nothing lol. I’ll find a place for it after the tank though.

I’d really like to (and I will do it) do what was suggested using rubber hose to come out of the intercooler and into a water collector mounted on the wall and then through another rubber hose into the tank.

Have any thoughts on this, what you would do? Any suggestions for a water collector to go between the intercooler and the tank?

Dan