Which is intake vs exhaust valve?

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Jun 2, 2009
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Wisconsin
Toro Super Recycler with TXP 159cc engine. Cord kicks back hard when trying to start, thinking valves are out of spec.

But not sure which is exhaust and which is intake?

Found the repair manual which says intake is on the left. But that one is right next to the exhaust. So a typo in the book?

The manual's pictures also shows the feeler gauges used to check spec as if intake is on right and exhaust on left.

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With the limited picture, I would say intake is on the right.

Easy way to tell...put a wrench on the crank, turn it in the direction it runs, and watch the valves. Suck, Squeeze, Bang, Blow...intake opens, both closed, both closed, exhaust opens...repeat.
 
So when I broke free the nut on the intake to adjust the screw, the push rod came unsecured (didn't even loosen it or turn adjustment screw, just broke it free). Is there a good way to get it back in place?

Edit: got it. Used a needle nose and strong light to see back there.
 
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When a lawn mower starter cord kicks back, it can be quite startling! This issue is usually associated with a mower that won’t start, has difficulty starting, or runs poorly. Let’s explore some potential causes and solutions:
  1. Misaligned Flywheel: If the flywheel is misaligned, it affects the engine’s timing. This can lead to the pull cord snapping back. Check the flywheel key and ensure it’s properly positioned. If needed, replace it1.
  2. Compression Issues: Incorrectly adjusted valves (intake or exhaust) can cause excessive pressure buildup in the engine. This can result in a kickback when pulling the cord. Verify valve adjustments2.
  3. Damaged Push Rod: A disconnected or damaged push rod can disrupt the engine’s operation, leading to kickbacks. Inspect the push rod for any issues3.

Is there a way for you to check the Flywheel Key?

Did you hit anything while you were Mowing?
 
So when I broke free the nut on the intake to adjust the screw, the push rod came unsecured (didn't even loosen it or turn adjustment screw, just broke it free). Is there a good way to get it back in place?

Edit: got it. Used a needle nose and strong light to see back there.
Did you happen to check the valve clearance before you loosened everything up?
 
This has been an issue for a few years, but only when starting it again after shutting it off. But in last few weeks it has been on a cold start, too. All seems good now.

Didn't check flywheel or key as it wasn't an acute issue.

Intake was a little out of spec loose before loosening nut, and exhaust was quite a bit loose.
 
Flywheel sheered key can definitely do this! Compression release issues can impact this as well, if the engine has it.

Nice work digging in!
 
So maybe spoke too soon.

Started up today and it surges a little. It did yesterday, too, after doing valves. Rechecked valves and they are within spec per manual (.006 inches intake, .008 exhaust). Rod seems in place correctly. Thoughts?

Also a lot of smoke and Bruning smell. Might just be residual penetrative spray on muffler from spraying choke linkage?

Maybe I did put cover on right with the metal dowels not in right position?

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Surging can mean it’s running lean and the throttle mechanism with the governor is gassing on and off. Gotta clean the carb for that one.

Usually it’s pull off the bowl and check 2 things
- float mechanism to makes sure it’s not stuck or clogged at the needle
- main jet, up the center, poking through with one bristle cut from a wire brush.
 
Running great now. Cleaned the carb and jets, and changed a couple gaskets and the heavy cardboard piece between gaskets where the carb attaches. Valves are where they should be. Runs better than it did when new.
 
Running great now. Cleaned the carb and jets, and changed a couple gaskets and the heavy cardboard piece between gaskets where the carb attaches. Valves are where they should be. Runs better than it did when new.
Those intake gaskets and the cardboard like insulator spacer have a tendency to harden and shrink as it ages on OPE. You likely had a small air leak in one of those gaskets causing the hard start and lean fuel mix/surging.
 
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