Which Epoxy to Use to Repair the Windshield Washer Reservoir?

You have to remove the bumper to replace it? :eek:

On most cars, it just pops out if you pull it!

Rock Auto has one for $15 which is about the price of a can or tube of Flex Seal
 
Once I tried a number of epoxies and found only one that worked. I can't remember which one.

I've used plastic milk jug material and a torch, but that is very tricky.

I've successfully used a hot glue gun.
 
I removed the leaking washer fluid tank on our '01 Protege and repaired it with a very expensive (around $40 c.12 - 13 years ago) special plastic glue, some sort of 2-part epoxy if I recall correctly.

It didn't hold, and I had to remove the reservoir a second time to replace it.

But some of the ideas here are really good. I'd probably try them if this ever happens again.
 
In 2013 I "fixed" a hole (yes, dumb me had broken it) in my beater Fiat windshield fluid reservoir with the same silicone stuff I was using to seal the valve cover gasket (Loctite 5910).
Ugly but still wasn't leaking 6 years later when I sold the car.
 
look on UToob for stitching plastic cracks. Basically a soldering iron and carefully melt/push the plastic along the crack. Make sure it is really clean before. I think polyethylene usually needs heat and pressure to bond to itself. The other thing i would try id the super glue and baking soda patch method. If there is no pressure inside worth a try.
I often 'stitch' like this, and add pieces of paper clips as actual stitches. Either across a break or longitudinally to reinforce a weak area, then an epoxy coating on top of that. If epoxying, I would think surface prep / roughness would be critical. So, if you have it out to prep for all this... spend the money. Let Pick and Pay do the pulling for ya'...
 
Ditto. I’ve done that exact same fix using GOOP.
Goop also goes by many other names. Carpenters Goop, Shoe Goo, Mechanics Goop, E6000. All the EXACTLY SAME STUFF, same ingredients, made in same factory.
Great Stuff.
I have used that to fix some gnarly unfixable things in the past. Id put it up there with JB Weld in the go-to fix it category. Id give that a whirl before buying a new one. As with all things glue be sure to rough up the surrounding area with heavy sand paper or a file , knife act so it will adhere better.
 
I will saturate fiberglass with superglue across the break/seam. Or.if black plastic and looks important and electrical conductivity not a concern...carbon fiber.

If it is high stress i dremel a groove and lay unidirectional fibers.

If it is super high stress i drill shallow tiny holes at opposing angles within that groove.

Superglue may not adhere properly. That said, if going that path, Id look at the Loctite plastic bonding system, which has an adhesion promoter that works well IME.
 
I use the aluminum foil hvac tape a lot for things. If pressed on flat and smooth it sticks very well. Regular duct tape might work too, it is water resistant/proof. Just the fabric part deteriorates from weathering. The foil tape doesn’t weather and presses into surfaces tightly.
 
JB Weld makes some great products that should hold on the seam.
+1
JB Weld works well for this sort of thing. Let it harden for 24 hrs before putting washer fluid in it. Once repaired with it you can consider it a permanent fix.
 
plastic welder tool like the ones used for plastics or ski repair. Otherwise, new bottle. You can try a 2K urethane or modified epoxy adhesive such as that used for bumper repair.

Polypropylene, polyolefin and polyethylene aren’t called problem plastics in a body shop for nothing.
 
I build R/C model gliders with Goop. Marine Goop to be exact as it has UV inhibitors in it. Should easily handle that repair for 5-10 years.
For our models, we thin the goop with toluene and tint it with enamel paints, then paint it over EPP foam (car bumper foam).
You might think it’s similar to plasti-dip but goop is incredibly strong. Here’s a closeup of one of my models with the painted on Goop concoction. These models routinely fly over 175mph up to 230+.
a11183013-109-a9227469-90-006.jpg
 
Windshield urethane adhesive. I put that ***t on everything. But that begs the question, did it just start leaking in the last year, or before, when the warranty would have covered it?
 
Windshield urethane adhesive. I put that ***t on everything. But that begs the question, did it just start leaking in the last year, or before, when the warranty would have covered it?
Yeah, it just started leaking.

And I am the second owner, having acquired the ride from my brother in March 2020. When I let Hyundai know of the change of ownership, they responded “the 10 year/100k mile warranty is only valid for the original owner. Any subsequent owner is limited to 5 years/50k miles from the date the vehicle was originally titled to the first owner.”

Which means my warranty expired June 2020.

Hyundai agreed that the 10 year sunroof warranty is valid for me until June 2025. So, I’ve got that going for me. 😎
 
No worries. I consider this issue to be a minor inconvenience.

I will:

Ignore it,
Gorilla tape it, or
Marine Goop it,

There’s bigger things to focus on.

Thanks again for the replies.
 
The guy that recommended welding it is who I would listen to. Find out what it is made of and find similar material to use as a welding rod.
 
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