Which Epoxy to Use to Repair the Windshield Washer Reservoir?

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The reservoir on the 2015 Santa Fe in my signature has a seam that results in a slow but steady drip from the seam when the reservoir is filled.

The leak emanates about two-thirds of the way down from the top of the reservoir.

The dealer wants to order a new OEM reservoir and charge two hours of labor ($250) to remove the bumper and install the new reservoir.

I can always just run the reservoir low, then fill it one-third full each time. A pain, to be sure, but so it removing the bumper to replace a reservoir with only 44,000 miles on it.

I can place the front end on jack stands, remove the wheel and wheel well cover, and access the reservoir to repair the seam. I hope.

My research revealed different epoxies that I believe may work on this seam. I was thinking more specifically of the Permatex Plastic Repair Kit.

Has anyone had any experience with a similar repair using epoxy?
 
look on UToob for stitching plastic cracks. Basically a soldering iron and carefully melt/push the plastic along the crack. Make sure it is really clean before. I think polyethylene usually needs heat and pressure to bond to itself. The other thing i would try id the super glue and baking soda patch method. If there is no pressure inside worth a try.
 
It it in a position where you can access it by removing the fender liner, vs. removing the bumper?

I used Gorilla epoxy on the coolant reservoir in my Fiero, which leaked along the bottom seam, and it held.
 
Those are usually polyethylene, which no glue adheres to very well. Often it can be "welded" by fusing more polyethylene into the crack with heat.
Agree. Need to know what kind of plastic. If its a low surface energy plastic, need to get some very specific 3M products.


 
Try that flex Seal slap on stuff Phil Swift is peddling, Ace hardware has it.
Doh! How did I forget that “stuff?”

Surely if F-seal can repair a hurricane damaged roof it will easily mend that plastic seam………,,😉
 
I will saturate fiberglass with superglue across the break/seam. Or.if black plastic and looks important and electrical conductivity not a concern...carbon fiber.

If it is high stress i dremel a groove and lay unidirectional fibers.

If it is super high stress i drill shallow tiny holes at opposing angles within that groove.
 
PC-11 Epoxy is great for these wet applications. I repaired a plastic bucket with it 15 years ago and it's still in service. It also works well in dry applications, but for that, PC-7 is a little stronger. PC-11 is very strong, but PC-7 is even stronger.
 
You can repair it, but I've been there and tried that more than once; you'll just end up with it leaking again. Better off just ordering a new reservoir yourself and installing it if at all possible. You can get one for $15 plus shipping on RA or there is one for $38 on Amazon.
 
Back in November I developed a leak in the radiator in my Explorer. At the top of the radiator. Before I went out and spent a couple hundred for a new one, I tried some JB Weld. It still holding without any sign of leakage. For less then $10 I would try some of that stuff. Make sure everything is clean and dry, mix it correctly, and let it dry for 24 hours. Being there's no pressure in a washer bottle ,it should work like a charm.,,
 
I will saturate fiberglass with superglue across the break/seam. Or.if black plastic and looks important and electrical conductivity not a concern...carbon fiber.

If it is high stress i dremel a groove and lay unidirectional fibers.

If it is super high stress i drill shallow tiny holes at opposing angles within that groove.
great point! Using mat or other cloths to reinforce within glue can be very effective. Adhesion to the tank still plays.
 
You would be surprised what a little Gorilla Tape can do on a clean surface. I temporally stopped a leak on 3/4 rubber water line at 70psi. I think it would have held for months, or longer.
 
Well, that reservoir is definitely leaking albeit mighty slow, which is fine by me.

I ran a light and a mirror down around the lower area and I did not see a leak.

I’ll let it go and fill the reservoir as needed, i.e., roughly 30%.

If I get around to having the front right wheel off, I’ll remove the wheelwell cover and research it further.

Besides, this has become a “leaky” Spring season for me. I just found out the thermal expansion valve on our 14 year old Carrier Infinity a/c is not holding pressure. And a replacement ain’t cheap.

Thanks for the replies. Especially the humorous ones. I need the laughs!
 
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