Which engine oil for Subaru Crosstrek?

[N3OO]

Hello all,

I have a question and didn't know where to post it so here goes.
My son just purchased a darn near mint Subaru Crosstrek with 130k miles on it with the boxer engine: I know, throw your dice take your chances. I don't know anything more about it.
I see it calls for 0w20, which oil would you feel safer with? Mobil 1, Pennzoil Platinum or another?

Thanks for any insight,

Bob

 

[GW.]

Thank u all for taking the time to reply: yes it will be the Valvoline Restore and Protect 5W30 . By the way it's a 2013 but I know nothing more on it.
Thank u all BOB

Wise choice.

 

[BobUser]

Given the mileage, unless I knew the PO used suitable oil on a suitable OCI, I would run R&P a couple of times, then M1 0W-30 ESP (cheapest great oil?) ... otherwise, M1 ESP.

BTW, my Subaru Ascent seems fine with 0/5W-20/30 ... used to use PUP 0W-20 or 5W-30. Only the 0W-20 "seemed" a bit noisier.

 

[Wheel366]

Have you noticed fuel dilution yet? Only once have I had the oil drained be more than what was put in in my 2019 Impreza and that was the last change. My first 2 oil changes were done by the dealer and done less than 6k miles. After that it was M1 EP for 3-4. Went to PUP then PP and have used that since minus one VRP change randomly. Each change has been less than 5k with a bunch closer to 2-3k. All were 0W-20. WIth that mileage, my opinion is start with VRP for 4 changes. Everything may be clean already, but it won't hurt and if it is not then clean things up. Keep OCIs at 6k. If you notice fuel, either move up a grade or then shorten. Then decide what you want to do after. Stay with VRP, M1 EP, 1 ESP, Amsoil, HPL, etc...

Also, do prev maintenance too. Maybe diff fluids, filters, CVT???????????????? brake fluid, etc...

 

[tired]

I only use 0W20 in the winter months for cold start help

This is unnecessary. Unless you are cranking below -25F or so, 5W is just fine, and there is no guarantee that a 0W-xx oil is thinner than a 5W-xx oil at temps above -25F. The 5W-xx oil could be thinner. This is in your head. I would recommend against switching viscosities.

otherwise Valvoline Restore and Protect is pretty much the GOAT

There you go.

OP, VRP 5W-30 is the answer you're looking for.

 

[Adkcedarman]

This is unnecessary. Unless you are cranking below -25F or so, 5W is just fine, and there is no guarantee that a 0W-xx oil is thinner than a 5W-xx oil at temps above -25F. The 5W-xx oil could be thinner. This is in your head. I would recommend against switching viscosities.

I’m not sure in convinced about this part… I know 5W is capable to about 20’s below 0F, but i dont know how to quantify the statement that 5W might be thinner at something like -5f versus a 0W… Wouldn’t the simplest method be to see what the viscosity is at 40c for a starting number (although the increase in viscosity with lower temp is not linear, its at least a baseline to track from)…. For abundance of caution, i switch to 0W in the winter, as we do frequently get down to teens and low 20’s below 0F, but there are plenty of vehicles specc’d for 5W30 in climates like mine that have no issues (Dad’s turbo F150 Powerboost). Idk, just like to play it safe than sorry.

 

[tired]

but i dont know how to quantify the statement that 5W might be thinner at something like -5f versus a 0W

Yes it's not linear, and the curves will cross.

I've personally cranked a car with 5W-30 down to about -25F (real temp, not wind chill). Cold soaked engine too. Did just fine and ran for years. I know that's just an anecdote, but it supports the physics behind it.

It's ok. It's one of the most common myths around here. "Gotta run 0W oil so the oil gets to the turbos faster!!" Winter rating is one of the most misunderstood topics. That's why there is a stickied post.

 

[Adkcedarman]

Yes it's not linear, and the curves will cross.

I've personally cranked a car with 5W-30 down to about -25F (real temp, not wind chill). Cold soaked engine too. Did just fine and ran for years. I know that's just an anecdote, but it supports the physics behind it.

It's ok. It's one of the most common myths around here. "Gotta run 0W oil so the oil gets to the turbos faster!!" Winter rating is one of the most misunderstood topics. That's why there is a stickied post.

Ultimately i know the difference in time to pressurization is fairly insignificant, i just baby my vehicles and if i can get oil circulating a half a second faster, it makes my cheeks red i guess. lol. I’m definitely leaning toward running my stash of 5W30 (12qt left of Valvoline Advanced, and then the 40qts of VRP) year round in my sienna and Crosstrek - and when its all used up, who knows, maybe ill stick with it or maybe ill get into Mobil 1 ESP 0W30.

 

[tired]

i just baby my vehicles

I'd strongly recommend against the 15 minute idle time then. I personally never idle more than 30 seconds ever. (Unless sitting in traffic I guess.) That is doing much more harm than anything. You're just puking fuel into the oil in that 15 minutes. The best way to warm up your car is to drive it.

 

[2015Corolla]

HPL $$$
V R&P $$

 

[Adkcedarman]

I'd strongly recommend against the 15 minute idle time then. I personally never idle more than 30 seconds ever. (Unless sitting in traffic I guess.) That is doing much more harm than anything. You're just puking fuel into the oil in that 15 minutes. The best way to warm up your car is to drive it.

Agreed, thing is, with a CVT its not ideal to take off right away, and as mentioned temps here can suck, so part of it is for comfort, the leather interior can be a bish sub zero.

As for fuel dilution, as ive shown in my UOAs which include winter driving with all that idle time, (10-15 minutes every weekday morning), i have no significant identifiable fuel dilution.

 

[tired]

Agreed, thing is, with a CVT its not ideal to take off right away, and as mentioned temps here can suck, so part of it is for comfort, the leather interior can be a bish sub zero.

As for fuel dilution, as ive shown in my UOAs which include winter driving with all that idle time, (10-15 minutes every weekday morning), i have no significant identifiable fuel dilution.

Yeah I get it. I've lived up in your neck of the woods (based on the temps you're talking about). I know what it's like. It's a balance.

 

[facility1]

one way to properly warm up a cvt/ engine in real cold temps, is when just started put in drive or parking brake on ,and let it sit for about a min (in gear) . or so before taking off. then drive slowly with a light foot for at least a mile.

 

[Adkcedarman]

one way to properly warm up a cvt/ engine is when just started put in drive or parking brake on ,and let it sit for about a min (in gear) . or so before taking off.

Are you joking?

 

[tired]

Agreed, thing is, with a CVT its not ideal to take off right away, and as mentioned temps here can suck, so part of it is for comfort, the leather interior can be a bish sub zero.

As for fuel dilution, as ive shown in my UOAs which include winter driving with all that idle time, (10-15 minutes every weekday morning), i have no significant identifiable fuel dilution.

View attachment 350851

Unfortunately a Blackstone analysis so you can't say anything about fuel dilution.

 

[Adkcedarman]

Unfortunately a Blackstone analysis so you can't say anything about fuel dilution.

Lol. I understand that Blackstone bases their fuel dilution estimates on rocky metrics, but the fact that the range is below a half a percent indicates nearly untraceable. If there were meaningful dilution, even a Blackstone analysis shows some indication above the minimum on the chart of less than half a percent.

 

[tired]

Lol. I understand that Blackstone bases their fuel dilution estimates on rocky metrics, but the fact that the range is below a half a percent indicates nearly untraceable. If there were meaningful dilution, even a Blackstone analysis shows some indication above the minimum on the chart of less than half a percent.

Well it's not "traceable" because they estimate it off of flashpoint, so they're not even trying to detect it. There is no detection going on. They don't use gas chromatography.

I'd send another sample in the future to Polaris or Wearcheck so you know. Your viscosity was getting pretty low on less than 5000 miles. I'm not sure what grade it was to start, since it was cropped. I'd be willing to bet there's dilution.

 

[Adkcedarman]

Well it's not "traceable" because they estimate it off of flashpoint, so they're not even trying to detect it. There is no detection going on. They don't use gas chromatography.

I'd send another sample in the future to Polaris or Wearcheck so you know. Your viscosity was getting pretty low on less than 5000 miles. I'm not sure what grade it was to start, since it was cropped. I'd be willing to bet there's dilution.

The right hand side is 5W30 Valvoline Advanced for 5,100 miles or so, and the left side is Valvoline Extended Protection 0W20 for under 5k. The viscosity loss is typical in a timing chain equipped FB20D.

I have a couple kits for OilAnalyzers that I recently bought per suggestion from another BITOG’er and i am looking forward to those results, of course I would like to know if there is more fuel dilution than i am aware of!

 

[IndyIan]

facility1 said:
one way to properly warm up a cvt/ engine is when just started put in drive or parking brake on ,and let it sit for about a min (in gear) . or so before taking off.

Are you joking?

I can't think of a mechanical downside and I think it would warm up the engine and transmission faster, but maybe just wait 10-15 seconds to let the engine turn higher rpms in park, so oil gets into the valve train, before shifting to D or R to get out of the driveway.
I wouldn't trust the parking brake enough to get out of the car, but I guess while I was sitting there fiddling around with my phone to get the some music or audio book queued up, it would help.

If it's below -15C or so, I find our Subaru's drive for the first couple minutes with the torque converter unlocked and higher than normal rpms, to build some heat through pumping oil and trans fluid around faster.

 

[Adkcedarman]

I can't think of a mechanical downside and I think it would warm up the engine and transmission faster, but maybe just wait 10-15 seconds to let the engine turn higher rpms in park, so oil gets into the valve train, before shifting to D or R to get out of the driveway.
I wouldn't trust the parking brake enough to get out of the car, but I guess while I was sitting there fiddling around with my phone to get the some music or audio book queued up, it would help.

If it's below -15C or so, I find our Subaru's drive for the first couple minutes with the torque converter unlocked and higher than normal rpms, to build some heat through pumping oil and trans fluid around faster.

Youre not concerned at all about having a vehicle in gear with the parking brake on routinely? It seems this would add unnecessary wear. I also am not a fan on leaving the car in gear at drive thrus, extended stop lights etc, as it is constantly wearing some clutch material though minimal, it adds up over time…

 

[IndyIan]

Youre not concerned at all about having a vehicle in gear with the parking brake on routinely? It seems this would add unnecessary wear. I also am not a fan on leaving the car in gear at drive thrus, extended stop lights etc, as it is constantly wearing some clutch material though minimal, it adds up over time…

No, it should all be engaged with no slippage, except the TC, which is just churning fluid. It is loading the CVT belt with zero movement, but that should be fine too? Lots of subarus climb some hills in AZ in 110F+ and then sit in D for a couple minutes at a light?
You wouldn't want to forget to release the parking brake though, as inputting high torque from the TC when the pulleys and belt are still quite cold is exactly what should be avoided.
Maybe not much transmission fluid is exchanged between the TC and rest of the transmission unless there is movement? In that case then maybe its not a good idea? Subaru decided that making the TC slip while driving is a good warmup strategy though.

I guess realistically, with good oil/trans fluid OCI's, almost any warm up strategy or no warm up at all is fine to get your car to 250+k miles, unless you see lower than -30C often?