Which Dino has more Moly?
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More moly does not = better performance. In fact any more than neccesary for friction reduction can contribute to copper corrosion. Where properly balanced 30-100ppm seems to be the range to look for . Lack of moly at all just means a different friction modification package or approach is being used. I interpret Great amounts of moly as a bandaid for a lack of formulation finess. ZDDP and Moly can work in synergy but throw the balance out with an SM GF4 oil and excess moly is going to compromise the function of the ZDDP.
There are more non metalic friction modifiers than the metalic FMs such as Boron and Moly that we don't see in certain oils such as Valvoline.
an oil should be judged on performance and not on mettalic additives alone.
There are more non metalic friction modifiers than the metalic FMs such as Boron and Moly that we don't see in certain oils such as Valvoline.
an oil should be judged on performance and not on mettalic additives alone.
Not recently
I got to talk to a real honest to goodness tribologist. I was also asking about moly and corrosion. He said, depending upon the formulation, that commonly used moly can cause some very bad copper corrosion values of well over 3b. This is especially true of moly additives added to the oil as an aftermarket supplement. He also said that a tweak of the additives can prevent moly corrosion without effecting the positive moly properties like FM/AW, and that moly was also an antioxidant.
That is why I never add anything to the oil and am very leery about mixing oils with different add packages, especially percentages of additives.
That is why I never add anything to the oil and am very leery about mixing oils with different add packages, especially percentages of additives.
Yes, the balance is important. I am also hesitant to mix or add aftermarket oil additives anymore seeing how carefully the formulators must balance the add package to make it work.
I thought Motorcraft was sporting a strong add pack, inc moly and boron.
Oil Mfrs. were kinda forced into using more expensive additives and exotic formulations. Ostensibly to protect the cat converter.
What's better? Well,, the progression seems to be that engine oil is always getting better and better.
What's better? Well,, the progression seems to be that engine oil is always getting better and better.
Havoline old GF-4 formulation used to have something aroung 250-300 ppm the new Defence(?) Shield seems to be just under 200 ppm.
The old bottle is still available in Canada at Part Sourcestores for $3.39.
I think thse two are the most molly loaded dinos out there.
The old bottle is still available in Canada at Part Sourcestores for $3.39.
I think thse two are the most molly loaded dinos out there.
Dang it. Well how does the Havoline DS stand up??? I just purchased 3 jugs from Walmart.
Heh I scored 2 bottles of the old SL stuff so the molly is there;
but still the American funky bottle smells (yes I's a sniffa) differently,would it be different formulation?
but still the American funky bottle smells (yes I's a sniffa) differently,would it be different formulation?
The old stuff did quite well at par with chevron in UOA section but the dew DS hasn't had enough data collected on it at least it seems to me that not too many here are using it.
I think it might have something to do with the hike in price when Texaco rolled out the new fomulation
I think it might have something to do with the hike in price when Texaco rolled out the new fomulation
I would give Havoline DS a try and get a used oil analysis on it if I could find it around here.. Seems like all the stores in the area stopped carrying it right when I wanted to try it out.
Hmmm...well for my oci of 5k, most of it being commuting, it should do me well. I will use it with confidence.
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