Which cap to use on GM with Dex-Cool???

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I have a 99 S-10, I just flushed the cooling system because the Dex-Cool went sour. I was told this happened because of the cheap radiator cap that came stock. Someone on here said to use the stant 10230. I can't seem to find that one in the stores, so I'm using the 11231. There is also a 11230. Am I going to be ok by using the 11231, or should I find a 10230? What is the difference between them?
 
I wonder if the cheaper one doesn't have a rubber gasket where it seats on the radiator. But my more likely suggestion is that the other one has a lever which relieves the pressure. If the difference is this lever-pass on it.

Seriously though. I replace caps every couple of years. Its good cheap insurance.
 
All three are a solid cap, no lever and have a gasket under the cap where it seals on the radiator.
 
I went through the same choice with a 3.1 V6 GM
and finally called Stant. The customer service operator transferred me to an engineer and he said the 10230 would work OK. I'm no expert on this so I was just looking for - no harm opinion before I switched.
 
The key still is to check your coolant level in the radiator say every month or so. At the same time the inner poppet check valve should be cleaned up a bit. I usually just run my finger all around it on the seating surface.
 
hmmm... I encountered the similar thing a while back. I believe the solutin I found to be the best was to use the 11230, IIRC.

JMH
 
OK, I put on the stant 10230. With close inspection between the 11231 and the 10230, the only difference I can find is the valve on the 10230 that lets the coolant flow from the overflow tank back to the radiator is slightly spring loaded so the radiator would have to create a little vacuum to over come the spring before it could pull the coolant in. The 11231 does not have this spring.

I wonder what difference it would make?
 
quote:

Originally posted by Al:

Seriously though. I replace caps every couple of years. Its good cheap insurance.


How come?
dunno.gif
 
quote:

Originally posted by schwartr88:

quote:

Originally posted by Al:

Seriously though. I replace caps every couple of years. Its good cheap insurance.


How come?
dunno.gif


As long as the cap is clean internally and the rubber seal is in good condition, there isn't much reason to. A bad seal can leak air into the system, which is particularly bad with the a certain GM coolant.

If the seal swells and sticks, it can prevent the cap from relieving pressure when it needs to. That can bust your cooling system open.
 
quote:

Originally posted by schwartr88:

quote:

Originally posted by Al:

Seriously though. I replace caps every couple of years. Its good cheap insurance.


How come?
dunno.gif


I just do it. Every time you run the car the cap lifts to relieve the coolant it constantly cycles in response to radiator temps. For a couple of bucks what the hey. I usually change radiator hoses ever 3 years or so and just do it at the same time.
 
One thing I noticed it my 2002 sonoma rad cap is 15 psi. The stant replacement 10230 is a 16 psi. I dont know if its going to make a difference or not.
 
My 99 S-10 calls for a 16psi. Your sonoma is baisicly the same thing as my S-10, as far as engine wise. I don't think it would make any difference. I would rather go up then down in psi.
 
One note on the caps: on the back of the 11230 package it says it will work for the 10230 application. I picked one up since my truck is starting to idle at a higher than normal temp, and it seemed to help.
 
quote:

Originally posted by JetSnake:
I wonder what difference it would make?

On my 1988 Mustang GT, the cooling system sometimes wouldn't pressurize.

Using the cap with the spring-loaded valve fixed that problem.

My understanding is that the ones without the spring-loaded valve make it easier for any air to exit the system.
 
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